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Bay window buses had a Bar hanging off the same place, bolts do Vibrate loose , I used 'Star' lock washers helped keep them tighter longer
I'd try the O2 ,up on top where ya got it.Cheers,mike

Hey Brah,
Thanks for this thread. It is saving me from asking a whole bunch of embarrassing questions. In the near future.
Plus, most everything you post is very entertaining to read.

Not to go back to the build portion of this thread. But if you didn't figure out the case saver insert issue.
I would heat the saver while clamped in a vice (carefully). Double nut the stud and separate the two.
Chase the saver ID threads and grease the stud.
To install the saver in the case, use some Locktite 518 and thread the saver into the case. The greased stud should easily back out of the saver.
I hope that makes sense.

FWIW, almost every 94mm bored OG VW case register I have seen. Has the saver threads exposed. It doesn't matter if the saver was 8 or 10mm ID.

Perry

CIS injected cars had about the most freaky spec pumps oems ever put in cars, they typically had 7 or 8mm pressure lines and 6mm returns. system pressure varied from 55 to 95 lbs, pumps were flowrated at 7 bar IIRC. (CIS needed those pumps)

"044s" were factory pumps on many Porsches, Ferraris and probably a Mercedes or two.
The ones VW stuck in mk1 Rabbits/Golfs was only a little bit less flow.

The newer screw pumps work better tho.

The only way Webers are going back on any of my vehicles is with injectors in the manifolds or hidden in the air cleaners and no venturiis.

Well, wouldn’t you know it, a couple of other motors got in the way of this one (again).
But still scheming…

In this great thread our man Nick has a killer idea for intercooling:
https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=151682

Since i run standoffs already,
This seems a perfect.
Wonder if something like this would work in my layout?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255767717774? ... R7L_jp3QYQ

Might try and find something similar but with 2” in and out(s), as that’s the size of all my current pipe.
Could just use ‘step’ size adaptors with no issues, right?

Also,
Air/air coolers aren’t directional are they?
It says 2 in 1 out, but I’d be doing the opposite.

As always, it’s great to hear from you guys and i really appreciate the input.

Reverse should be fine, I’d say.

I’m thinking something similar for the next engine (after the T1 EFI I’m currently doing with Honda throttle bodies). Although that will be upright T4, possibly a 1.7 mouse.