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Or a simple petcock. And what tank do you have vented ? Where are you filling your system from ?

Starting on page 31, I made a tank out of fiberglass... It's hidden in the rear passenger side fender. I plan on making a larger capacity tank, with the option to add ice.

Doesn't that tank overflow with it being vented? Trying to wrap my head around that it doesn't overflow seeing that there is your radiator at a higher spot in the system . Maybe there isn't enough head pressure possibly.

Yes, the tank is vented. I have a check valve on the pump feed. It prevents the system from draining back to the tank... Seems to work well, no leaks or overflows.
Gonna hold off on adding a bleed valve/ petcock... The intercooler system seems to be doing very well. Logged a cold start. IAT cold 77F, engine warm IAT 83F (no air across heat exchanger). Weather is better, going for a spin this afternoon. Will post an update after.

I guess the way you have your system you wouldn't need to burp it at the high spot. I was thinking you had a fully closed/ pressurized system and a rad cap on the tank etc.

Panel, are pressurize coolant systems common with charge coolers? I've never gone that route before, just had a high flowing bilge pump in the bottom of my tank and used it to move a ton of water through my intercooler, and then through a heat exchangers to avoid heat soaking the water to death. Worked good, never got more than warm with normal driving.

I have my pump at the lowest point below my radiator and the tank above and the exchanger is higher than those. Pump pulls from the radiator and to the exchanger then to the tank then radiator. It is (except the exchanger) OEM Ford Cobra pressurized when hot system, although 140F is about the highest temp going into the pump I have seen on a 100F day in traffic. Mine pulls a lot of heat from the supercharger case since it is mounted above it in direct contact.

Mines also pressurized. It has a regular rad cap we welded onto the exchanger also. Here is a good link for you guys. And on page 3 is where a couple of the big power guys have their routing listed.

viewtopic.php?t=113515

This conversation reminds me of the chemist that filled his exchanger with low melting point paraffin wax. Given it's latent heat requirement to change from a solid to a liquid it would melt at 125F under boost taking out heat and off boost the cooler air would absorb the heat and solidify what had phase changed. Of course it would only cool so long (about 20 seconds in his case) and kept the intake air warm (about 3 minutes at cruise) until fully solidified.

Vanagons just have a bolt in the top of the radiator, works great. highest point in the system, design takes some care not to have steam traps, they learned some lessons from early mk1 Golfs that Ford may still not have figured out...
Simple is good.

Piledriver wrote: ↑Tue May 13, 2025 6:10 pm Vanagons just have a bolt in the top of the radiator, works great. highest point in the system, design takes some care not to have steam traps, they learned some lessons from early mk1 Golfs that Ford may still not have figured out...
Simple is good.

How hot are we thinking that this water is gonna get guys? I don't know that my water ever got to more than 110°F ever. Granted, I didn't see boost unless I meant to see boost, and maybe that's the difference, this supercharged setup is gonna see some big intake temps all the time, and maybe extremely responsive turbo setups see a lot more constant heat than I'm used to.

That little gen1 style roots blower is going to make lots of hot air at 5 psi, and potentially some all the time.
Admittedly I was thinking cooling system in my response, but you have to think about air pockets the same way even if its a water cooled 3d printer.(maybe moreso as you don't have huge water flow) all the stepper and extruder water blocks etc are designed with no air pockets, same as gaming PC cooling rigs, admittedly you are pulling from the same parts bin or close.

Looking at a long log on a 95F day:
Cruising in the city: inlet air to supercharger 105F to 115F, water 115F to 116F, MAT after intercooler 116F to 120F.
On the highway: inlet air to supercharger 105F to 113F, water 113F to 117F, MAT after intercooler 117F to 123F.
I so wished I would have put a sensor between the supercharger and the intercooler, but the way I built it I can't now.
The intercooler sits directly on the supercharger, which is a good and bad thing.
The good is it draws heat from the supercharger case and helps cool it, and the bad is the same because it heats the intercooler.
My radiator, pump, and reservoir are from a wrecked Cobra Mustang, intercooler is a large universal one I modified, and fan came from Orilley's.
Supercharger is a 1.5L Autorotor twin screw on a 2110 at that time.

Oh, IIRC 135F was the highest water temp I saw after a full throttle run 0 to 90mph.
I can't find that log.

Wow! Thanks for the numbers Alexander. After a 90F drive, my IAT was upwards of 125F. I still have some tuning to do... Trying to schedule a live tuning with Mario at TDS. My timing during cruise isn't ideal. Struggling with idle speed with my IAC, starts right up, but can't seem to find a steady idle. Shooting for 950rpm. Still seem to get sync loss below 11 BTDC. Shouldn't it be closer to 7 at idle??

I have those logs if you guys would like to take a look. Any help would be greatly appreciated.