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Quick update, IT F$#KING WORKS. I had a 1.2 volt drop on the coil compared to the battery voltage so I removed all auxiliary units with now have there own 12v supply and done a direct link from battery to coil and what a difference. Now some history, before I had done anything to the car I had to have the idle at 1000rpm any lower and she would start to miss and any lower than 800rpm she would stall, she would only start after 10 ish seconds of cranking and it would take around ten minutes of warming up before she would idle on her own. Now the coil has its own power supply directly from battery and new non resistor leads, resistor plugs ( 0.6mm gap), new rotor and cap she starts the second the key is turn and she will idle on her own within one minute (stone cold engine). Not only that but remember I said 1000rpm was the lowest I could go before she started to miss well now she will tick over quite nicely at 500rpm although I’m never going to go this low. She is now set at 900rpm idle witch also means the butterflies are a lot more closed. Now for the drive, she accelerates so much smoother, sound so much better, throttle response is sharper, no backfire at all and so so so much stronger when on boost. I can’t believe how much difference the bug is to drive I strongly recommend that everyone check there coil voltage against the battery voltage and if you have a drop then bloody run the coil directly from the dam battery.
I can’t thank you lot enough for all your support so THANKS YOU ALL
I just can’t wait till I’m back on Saturday to go for a drive

Excellent news! Glad you got to the bottom of it.

Good to hear it worked out.

That's great. Sounds like it will be a lot more enjoyable to drive!

So Glad you stuck it out and found the issue ,, instead of 'jumping on the F.I. Band Wagon' just messin with u guys

I m feeling like a little solitaire how-about any you other " band wagon " members
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZGlRiapBEeY

Got back earlier than planned so had a drive today and got my A/F sensor sorted and here’s some readings with the car parked up in neutral.

For some reason the photos are out of sink
1000rpm =21.5:1
1500rpm=16.3:1
2000rpm=11.9:1
2500rpm=11.2:1
3000rpm=11:1
4000rpm=10.7
I know this are just figures taken in neutral and I should be reading figures while driving but just wanted to see what I would get

PS she is so much better to drive now and I would say if you get a draw through set up correctly they are as as good to drive as a twin carb set up

Alright now onto some less stressful touching up. Nice when a plan comes together
congrats

I’m so so so happy with the out I was starting to think about scrapping the turbo idea and going back to twin carbs but am glad I stuck with it cause it’s a dream to drive, plus I think it’s time to up the boost and fit this dam electric boost controller

You don't mess around! Crank it up!

Ha ha ha no I don’t. I’m still amazed what this thing drives like and now I have a name for the bug. I parked the car in a car park next to a couple with a young boy about 5 years old and he said “ wow that old car sounds like thunder” so now the bugs called BLUE THUNDER
Tomorrow the 3 psi waste gate spring is coming out and the 7 psi spring is going in then once I’m happy with that the digital boost controller will be fitted allow me to run what ever boost I want although I can only produce 14psi @ 4000rpm with this set up

When you checked your voltage and found a drop, was that with just the key on or while it was running?
And blue thunder is a great name!

Cheers mate
I had a bigger drop with the engine running. Above 2700rpm the battery was getting 14.5v (alternator out put) but the coil voltage never went over 11.4v but I’m guessing that the coil will never see the voltage the battery sees only a max of 12 volts?

Interesting. I checked mine last night. Had like 11.9 with just the key, and barely over 8v while running. I better check it again!