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I was going to suggest Evaporust, great stuff if you have time to let parts sit.

I've been on vacation for a little over a week and never got around to updating what was done before i left...
The bearing caps were painted, as may have been seen in the beckground in earlier pictures.


Then I started disassembling the rear brakes...




I also ground in the new brake shoes to match the drum. These had maybe 10% contact when I started sanding... Dust mask on!!




And just like that, one side was assembled!




I also replaced both parking brake cables


With the bearing cap in place and new seals installed, it was just a matter of fitting the drum, which had gotten a thin layer of black high-temp paint.

With that done, it was time to move on to the front brakes.


The drum was quite a sorry sight, to say the least... But cleanable!




Someone has definitely been here before and replaced the wheel bearings at some point...



After a soak, some sanding, and a bit of paint, that drum turned out nice too.




Once again I sanded the shoes to fit the drum. Here you can see how little contact area there is even after some sanding.



As you can see, the brake shoe is thicker in the middle after sanding. This is something I haven’t tried before… But it kind of feels like it should give better braking power right from the start. Even though the shoes will wear in over time.


With the drum painted and warm after lying in the sun, there was no issue getting the new bearing races in.


Plenty of SKF wheel bearing grease was used to fill the cavity in the drum and pack the bearings.




The brakes were assembled and installed on the car




I had bought these EMPI aluminum locknuts with hex screws to avoid those slightly annoying double nuts. But the aluminum locknuts are huge! And I don't think the center caps for my BRMs will fit over the grease cap. Whether I should cut down and reweld the grease caps, or just bash them in with a hammer, I'll end up going back to double nuts... Right now, it's temporarily tightened since I haven't mounted any locking plates.


Next time I'm in the garage, I'll bring a wheel and test it out! Should be exciting…
Until then!

The front wheel's center cap fit perfectly over the grease cap. However, it looks like it's taken a bit of a beating earlier in its life.




It fits in the back without any problems too.


I read a bit on the forums about the Flat4 BRM wheels, and apparently the speedometer cable is also supposed to fit inside the center cap if you grind down the grease cap where it bottoms out in the drum. So I ground it down about 3–4 mm and also ground down the end of the speedo cable.


The brakes are mounted on the driver’s side too.




The cable just barely fit!



Had to snap a little inspiration photo with the fender on!


The transmission has also been filled with fluid as well.

Next step was a bit of plumbing. All brake lines and hoses will be replaced, as well as the master cylinder.




The old brake fluid reservoir came out too.


Old and new! Upgrading to a dual-circuit master cylinder.


First, a bit of paint.



Assembled


I reused the original boot for the pedal since it had a better fit and was surprisingly fresh.


Installed in the car and brake lines made.




New lines in the back too, of course.




Before the pedal assembly was mounted, I cleaned the rubber section of the mat behind it.




Then it was just a matter of filling the system and bleeding it. Thanks to Roger (Local Twin Peak Boxers-member) who helped me with this!


Now she’s out! Rolling and braking!




We did discover, however, that one side in the front needs to be adjusted for correct camber… I’ll need to move a few shims in the spindle to correct this.


This also means everything has been filmed for Episode 2. Coming soon! Next step is to get some paint on the repaired areas and fenders.

These past months work can now be seen in video format on Youtube.. This episode turned out to be longer than expected...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5payLHdEbnU

Well, some work has been done!

First off, I re-shimmed one of the spindles



Brushed some black paint on the floor pan. Better than nothing and there will be a carpet on top of this anyway..



Then it was time for some paint! So I brought the fenders into the other room and sanded them down to bare metal on the top side. The underside I’ll just paint the repairs quickly and smear with undercoating.










With the fenders clean, a wash primer was applied.



Then the filler went on like crazy. Warning for sensitive viewers. Especially anyone out there who works as an automotive painter..
This paint job turned out really quick n’ dirty with a lot of filler..

After about 3 rounds of filler and sanding, another layer of wash primer was applied to protect all the bare metal areas before high build primer.



A few solid coats of primer was applied and sanded down to the finish my non-sanding primer required.








Why do I even have a non-sanding primer i hear you ask? When I ordered the paint, the can said it required a white primer. I did a couple of test pieces to see how the color would match. One with white primer and one with light gray.
I polished a section on the front hood and on the engine lid to test the color in both shade and direct sunlight.





One of the samples turned out slightly darker


And the other one a bit lighter


Confirmed that a white non-sanding primer should be used, so all the fenders were painted after the sanded-through areas with bare metal spots were covered with more wash primer..

All set for the topcoat!




Some dry spray in a few spots and a couple of nasty runs on one rear fender.. The paint needs to cure properly before I start wet sanding and fixing the flaws.



The fenders are far from perfect with a few minor dents left and some waviness where I used filler. But the car they’re going on isn’t much better, so this will do just fine for me! This is not the right way to do it and I’m definitely not a car painter..
Now the car has been moved into the hall and is propped up and masked off, ready to get some primer.

Excellent work!

V8Nate wrote: ↑Sun Jul 20, 2025 7:56 pm Excellent work!

Thank you!

Moving on with the paint job, it's the same process on the body. Primer, filler, high build primer... Yeah... You’ve already seen this once.



















Then the body got to come out in the sun and get its first wash. The biggest difference here was made by the iron remover, which turns purple when it reacts with metal particles.






It makes a big difference to remove those brown spots, as you can see on the driver’s door...

The overall look instantly becomes much nicer!



Then something I’ve been looking forward to—removing all the stickers on the car. Some people will probably be annoyed that I’m removing the old decals, but the car will have some kind of reference to the "Expressen wasp" in the future.






With the body washed and the stickers gone, it was FINALLY time to polish! Unfortunately, I had so much fun that I barely took any pictures during the process...



So instead, you’ll get pictures of the final result.



There’s not much left now before episode 3 is ready. Until next time!

What a difference great work. That iron remover is wild! I wonder what it would do to rusty chrome?

V8Nate wrote: ↑Mon Jul 28, 2025 10:49 pm What a difference great work. That iron remover is wild! I wonder what it would do to rusty chrome?

On my rusty vent-windows, it really didnt so much for some reason

Episode 3 can now be seen on youtube.
https://youtu.be/Zq4cdsI_BBE?si=ffeTTJsqRO4Drj5H