the dreaded relapse

Longbeach412 · Post by **Longbeach412** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:22 pm

...............am reading!

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Sat Mar 26, 2005 8:52 pm

That damn braided point plate wire did cause that kinda problem for me too! I couldnt figure out what was going on! They actually had one at Street and sand toy and put it in and she was a totally different car!
I had tried to soldier it, weld it but nothing!!! You wouldnt think that would be such a ground issue! It wasnt cheap(70ish) but worth it!! It's true about the little stuff making you so so PO'd! I swear at one point I was about to send mine to the crusher,lol! You really have to count to a hundred when working with the FI not ten,lol! DOn't like it get to you; we have all been there! When you hear how these motors can sing that sweet rev sound it'll all be worth it! My motor even with the lame engine non laping I did sounded so sweet reving up! You're gonna get it with all the great help the guys offer here! Sorry I'm not much help! bill

Longbeach412 · Post by **Longbeach412** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:25 am

"Any" response at all to my problems and rantings is of enormous help to me. It gives me a huge boost that I am not alone while everyone else I know, mechanics, parts guys, members of my T3 club, shacke their heads in disapproval for ever daring to get tangled up in a 412, and giving me the "I told you so" crap.

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:38 am

Longbeach412 wrote:"Any" response at all to my problems and rantings is of enormous help to me. It gives me a huge boost that I am not alone while everyone else I know, mechanics, parts guys, members of my T3 club, shacke their heads in disapproval for ever daring to get tangled up in a 412, and giving me the "I told you so" crap.

LOL!

That just shows me they have no clue what they are talking about. Mechanically I would put EITHER of my 412's up against ANY STOCK Bug, T3 or Bus, it will outperform ANY or them, EVEN THE 2 door sitting on JACKSTANDS!!!!

Longbeach412 · Post by **Longbeach412** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:17 am

Well, they don't see the need to have a clue!......As to the superiority of the car, when it drove good for 3 days

, we took it for a cruise up to 60 mph, my wife was so impressed....she said; smooth, quite, quick, fast, comfortable. Mind you she has been in all other vw types. But you got to admit that with such reliability and operability issues, its like having a Elle Mcfierson for a girlfriend with a headache 28 days a month

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 7:28 am

When you get the kinks worked out it will be just as reliable as any others.

Im sorry most of the people who talk down about 412's are ones that DONT understand Fuel Injection, DONT understand that a vacuum advance Distributer is waaaaaaaaaay better than a pos 009. They are also the ones that take that same 009, tune it by ear and have the advance set so far up that their engines run way to hot. The 412 is by far a more precise machine than any other Aircooled vehicle that VW put out. Alot of it's innovations were way ahead of anything else on the market.

Yeah let them talk down to you about the car, but you will have your day, when you can roll in, driving your 412 knowing that it, accelerates better, brakes better, rides better and has more passenger room than most of everyone elses ACVW's.

MGVWfan · Post by **MGVWfan** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:47 am

I think the moment will come when I have a doubting Thomas T1 fan in the passenger's seat and I turn on the A/C while tooling down the road at 70 mph, and no change to vehicle speed (substitute turn on the Eber while driving in the winter and get heat INSTANTLY)

. Hey, keep the faith dude, it'll work out!

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Sun Mar 27, 2005 3:26 pm

Hey, just a thought to test the CHT, could you put the meter on the lead and watch it after you start it to see if resistance changes during the heat up or the dist plug? I still would start with another fuel source to see if that is the issue(like a bag someone put in one of my cars) and maybe even do the Ray relay thing to eleminate that whole area. I remember my brothers old 240 nissan they had to replace injector wiring many times, so I guess its not just a age thing with connectors! So is there a way to get the ECU to setup a basic run situation or can you actually start the Ljet system without the AFM or other parts and then plug them in to find a problem? Maybe like getting a resistor with the standard needed range for those terminal to the ECU? Just some dumb thinkin,lol! bill
p.s.So does a rich mixture relate to a low or high resistance?

Longbeach412 · Post by **Longbeach412** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 4:40 pm

Alright folks, I examined the dizzy braided wire and its fine, so I finally put a press gauge on (unfortunately 100psi, couldn't find any 50psi) and started her up. first time she idled great and the pressure stayed at 30 psi and she kept on idling. I said hot damm, rubbed my eyes in disbelief. Just to make sure its reality, I turned her off and restarted her. He idled unhappy and the pressure was at ~25psi and when I momentarily rev her up it would hesitate for a second, drop to 20psi, rev, and slowly go back to ~25psi when its back to idle. So, does that sound like a clogged fuel tank strainer? do you clean that thing from the sending unit access? or do you have to drain the tank?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 5:05 pm

Its either a clogged fuel tank strainer...or a weak pump...or a bad regulator. Do the check again. After shutting down, the gauge should nit drop below 16 psi...and it should stay there for at bare minimum 15 minutes. Also, sooner or later...you must get a lower pressure gauge. With teh margin of error 2% of maximum pressure on the dial...it is probably off 2 psi if at all. That will be a lot in the long run. If it leaks down...its time for a new regulator. Also, make sure the voltage at the pump is not dropping ...before you do any of this...by hot wiring it to the battery...then checking pressure.

Do not replace the sock strainer. Remove it. Drain the tank, pull off both fuel hoses, get a large wrench and take loose the nut on the bottom of the tank surrounding the two fuel outlets. The whole pipe assembly comes out with the sock filter on it. Cut it off. Then....hose the tank out through either the filler neck or the gas gauge hole...with water... into a tub. Just enough to get out the crud. Drain well, let it sit overnight. Put in 5 gallons of fresh gas and 3 bottles of heet or Christy drygas water remover.

The problem with teh sock...is that it clogs. The better thing to let happen...is for the external fuel filter to clog...if anything. It is cheap and easy to replace...and you don't have to drain the tank. If this does not solve the problem, volume test the pump. Ray

vwbill · Post by **vwbill** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 7:21 pm

Hey, it wasnt much of a pressure loss 5 to 10psi? Could a leaking cold start valve be letting the pressure drop or should the pressure still be at psi since the Pump should keep adding pressure? I guess that's why a leak down test like Ray said is a good idea! If you change the fuel source with another can of fuel you could tell if it was a tank issue. If you pull the cold start valve you could see if it is leaking under pressure? If you do the pump bypass then you could know if it is the pump or the relay? bill

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Wed Mar 30, 2005 8:59 pm

The sock was the reason my 2 door was left, it was clogged so they couldnt get it started. I am GLAD you found the problem. Follow Ray's instructions on this, you should be back on the road soon!

Longbeach412 · Post by **Longbeach412** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:28 am

Ok, I ran the leak down test. this time it wouldnt run for long, dunno why, all I know is that the day was much warmer!!...if that makes any sense!...Anyways, it idled for a couple of seconds enough to register a ~25 PSI reading on the gauge. But the minute it dies the needle drops instantly to zero. That points the finger at the Press Regulator, so off with it at the next chance and will see. I am removing that sock suspect or not........was just wondering, can't I just bust it by poking form the top without having to drain the tank?

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:47 am

[quote="Longbeach412"]Ok, I ran the leak down test. this time it wouldnt run for long, dunno why, all I know is that the day was much warmer!!...if that makes any sense!...Anyways, it idled for a couple of seconds enough to register a ~25 PSI reading on the gauge. But the minute it dies the needle drops instantly to zero. That points the finger at the Press Regulator, so off with it at the next chance and will see. I am removing that sock suspect or not........was just wondering, can't I just bust it by poking form the top without having to drain the tank?[/quote]

The pipe that the sock is attached too makes some googley turns, you cant get a screwdriver or anything straight up there far enough. Take it out, its easy.

I wouldnt say it points straight to your Pressure regulator,

try this

ACHTUN ACHTUNG ACHTUNG be very careful

Pull the out line off the fuel rail leading back to the rear of the car from the fuel pump. Get someone to turn the car on, check that fuel comes out of the pump. Take a piece of fuel line, connect it to the out of the pump and place the other end in a fuel can, get someone to try and crank the car, you should have alot of fuel pumping, if not, its either your tank or your pump. If it does pump alot, I would say its the regulator.

DeathBus · Post by **DeathBus** » Fri Apr 01, 2005 11:50 am

When I say get someone to crank the car I mean continually turn it over with the starter, for a minute or so.

Shoptalkforums.com

the dreaded relapse

Damn Point plate!

Basic Ljet setup?

Cold start leaker???