Devastator's upgrade

[Leatherneck]

Nice, bet you were smiling about that package.

[Devastator]

It arrived at my workplace around lunch time. The rest of my workday was a waste. I'm gonna need a grinectomy.

[fusername]

what brand cvs do you have? like i said, the EMPIs can not be cut, and not all lobros can either. the vw ones are deff flame hardened, but only on the raceways.

[Devastator]

what brand cvs do you have?

Lobro.

the EMPIs can not be cut

Are you referring to the outer housing or the internal "star" housing?
FWIW, I discovered that I do not need to counter bore the "star" housing in order for my axles to fit.

[73AZ]

My shocks arrived today!

Awesome!
Now fire up the Lincoln and burn some rod.

[Devastator]

Now fire up the Lincoln and burn some rod.

Yes Sir!

[fusername]

what brand cvs do you have?

Lobro.

the EMPIs can not be cut

Are you referring to the outer housing or the internal "star" housing?
FWIW, I discovered that I do not need to counter bore the "star" housing in order for my axles to fit.

then you can probably cut them, but do not get close to the cv race, or there is some strange property that not only will yoru cutter skip out there, but it seems to cause the center to harden while cutting for whatever reason. you said you don't need to cut, but if someone turns this up on a search its good to hear.

also yes, I am talking about the iner star. if you wanted to lighten the outer race by finning it, you probably could no problem, appears to be normal steel.

[Devastator]

also yes, I am talking about the iner star.

Ah, I thought you were. You are correct, the heat treated area of the part is making your boring bar chatter. There are a few ways to deal with this. One is to use a solid carbide boring bar and turn your RPM's way down. The other is to use an indexable boring bar with a CBN, (Cubic Boron Nitride, for those of you playing the game at home), insert, and still turn your RPM's way down. The hardening of the metal as you cut it is caused by tool pressure and heat. It is called work hardening and is common in most high carbon steel , and many martensitic stainless steel, alloys. Lastly, you could grind it, although not many people have access to this type of equipment.

if you wanted to lighten the outer race by finning it, you probably could no problem, appears to be normal steel.

That was my plan, but I'm running out of time. It'll have to wait for another really good reason to do so.

[73AZ]

Were you able to weld out the shock mounts?

[Devastator]

Were you able to weld out the shock mounts?

Why yes. Yes I was. I even heat treated 2 of my fingers and painted them. I got some paint on the shock mounts too.
I didn't take any pictures because it was late and I was tired, (and my fingers were blue). I'm going to be working, (at my paying job), this weekend, so I'm not sure how much will get done on the sandrail. My plan is to have everything but the seats back in. Then I can start the front end fab.

[73AZ]

I even heat treated 2 of my fingers ....

I'm going to use that sometime

[73AZ]

You still plan to have those A arms TIG welded, right?

Next weekend would be a good time to get together on a few of the things
we were talking about, and if you have anything ready for final weld out
I'll have lab time the following week to TIG it up.

We should start running down details on anything that would be needed by then though.

If you are useing material that calls for specific filler rod we'll need to have it by then, temp. sticks for preheat
and if you want to post weld heat treat I can ask about around the details there.

[Devastator]

The A-Arms I'll MIG weld, but the spindles would be better served TIG welded.
All pcs. are 1018 CRS, (cold rolled steel for those playing at home). I'm not too concerned about the heat treat. My primary concern is being sure that the spindle shaft doesn't warp.

[73AZ]

Sounds like everything will be pretty straight forward.

[fusername]

post heat treat is really just a chromoly thing, right? help those playing at home catch up.