Oxyboxer build thread

[Paul H]

Here's a blatant parts advertisement
I have pulleys for the Oxy/Wassers with or without crank triggers that work with the standard oil seal, steel hub with separate bolt on pulley

[grelland]

No problem, Paul

There has been few updates here lately, but one thing I actually already did, was to decide on a CB pulley for dry sump pumps, and a generator pulley for 356 engines, which is a bit smaller than original, as can be seen on this picture:

upper pulley.jpg

This combo will give me about 14% less fan speed, but I hope that the higher operating rpm range on this engine compared with a n original, and the fact that an original fans start slipping on the belt before it reaches max rpm combined will ensure I get enough cooling out of this setup.

It turned out that the flywheel I bought was lightened, hence it had material removed excatly where I had planned to drill the holes for the hall sensor, so I need to relocate the sensor. It this does not work out, I will seriously consider Paul's trigger wheel/pulley setup, as it looks like a very good setup.

Talking about good looking setups, I finally decided to keep my old trusty 1835 completely assembled as a spare engine (or just "nice to have" for a new planned project), so I ended up ordering a pair of these for this engine:

sp1-3.jpg

I also came across a good deal on a JPM cam and lifter kit, so there are some minor adjustments to the engine as it moves along.

But at least it is moving along

[Paul H]

I don't have a Vee belt dry sump pulley for the wasser hubs,there isn't enough meat to get the sensor in although i do know someone modified one and got it to work. It all gets a bit thin
I tend to use a flat belt when dry sumping

[Ian Godfrey]

Grelland, who make those manifold/butterfly/injector set ups? Website?

[Paul H]

Grelland, who make those manifold/butterfly/injector set ups? Website?

Me
http://www.vwspeedshop.com/product.php? ... 396&page=1

[grelland]

Paul

[grelland]

A little slow on the progress, but all the rotating parts are off for balancing and the barrels are off for shortening.

Meanwhile, I am playing around with cheap-o methods, and tonight I made a tool for cutting the lifter bores:

cutting tool.jpg

Not too high-tech, but it works:

guide bore.jpg

Now the case needs a thorough cleaning, as I think I am done with the machine work, and would like to get rid of all the debris before I start assembly.

[andy198712]

Cool!! I dabbled with boring some heads today and its great to try our own machining!

[Steve Arndt]

I have an old lifter with a piece of tool steel bit brazed on under the mushroom. It has a 3/8 socked brazed to the face for driving. Works same as yours, but includes vw parts

[buildabiggerboxer]

if your using bushes for T1 lifters, its best to fit the lifter bore bushes before decking them , otherwise they protrude, then you also need a T1 lifter sized cutter.

[grelland]

Good point. I will get the cam later this week, then I will measure whether I need to cut more

[andy198712]

were you spinnig it quite fast?

[grelland]

that might very well be... I am not a machist

But fastback, on the other hand, he is just that, and a good one too, so he balanced my crank and flywheel assembly, and also did some of his magic on the flywheel:

IMG_20130306_185349.jpg

So now the rotating mass is balanced to be within the tolerances commonly used in touring cars, so my targeted 6500 rpms should be safe

I also received a cam-and-lifter kit and the new manifold/TB's so things are coming together.

[riseabove]

really really nice looking flywheel i must say !

i love the idea of using it as a trigger also . less cabling in the front of the motor.

great stuff! keep it coming !

[buildabiggerboxer]

Top work from Fasty as usual, Are you also using the torque converter access port for the sensor mounting point grelland?, looks the same flywheel as i use, they are some very hard steel to machine i found. good stuff.