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Oh.....two pole... w terminal...I understand completely now.

I would STRONGLY recommend investing $5 in a mechanical pressure gauge from Home depot, now.

Once you see your oil pressure is fine hot and cold, unscrew it, put it in a ziplock bag and put it in the deepest recesses of your toolbox for the next time you need a sanity check.

Then install a stock idiot light switch, fix your oil leaks, and stop worrying about it.

Electric pressure gauge: I do not trust them anywhere near as far as I can throw them, as they fly pretty good. That's about the only thing Gene Berg said that I completely agree with.
There are some excellent setups available, but they don't sell them for cars.

For that reason alone I suspect you are hunting snipe.
I have a couple setups that read zero anywhere under 15-20 PSI, and give bogus readings at high pressure. (They are VDOs, one of the senders is installed and is now puking oil all over my dry motor )

I'm looking at a couple Honeywell 0-5v pressure transducers to hook up to my extra analog ins on my MS3X, one for fuel, one for oil. These can be calibrated in the .ini, and logged.

Oddly, Honeywell owns FRAM, but their industrial stuff is highly regarded. go figure.

evernon wrote:Yes the gauge comes back to zero & moves to zero off the peg when the ignition is switched on. The sender is a two post model & I believe I have the W terminal connected to the gauge and the other terminal grounded.

The sender is connected to the terminal just behind & left of the distributer.

The filter & oil cooler are on separate loops each connected to the stock mounts with adapters.

The filter is a Mann & I did check the oilflow so I am certain that the oil is hitting the filter in the correct direction.

Not sure of the pump specifics. I will call the guy that built the short block to see what he thinks.

You don't ground the other terminal on the VDO senders. For the Dual post sender One terminal is for the IDIOT light and the other terminal is for the GAUGE the out side of the sender is the ground. The Single post sender the terminal is for the gauge and you ground the out side of the sender...

Thanks guys,

I was really freaked out last night thinking that I had major issues. Today I removed the filter & cut it apart. Nothing really to speak of other than small metal particals that were suspended in the filter oil & some white & gray grease like substances on the filter media. After connecting the VDO sender correctly, the oil pressure @ start up is at 80psi. All that bums me out now is the fact that I have an oil leak on the flywheel side of the engine & I haven't had the time to look into this yet. Maybe it will just go away? The thing sounds pretty fierce though without any muffler on the tri-mil exhaust. Next - troubleshoot the head temp gauge.

Oil leak.....maybe go away?

BUWAHHAHAHHAHHAHHAHHHAHAHHAHAHHHA!!!


DOn

It's probably one of the plugs.

Looks like the front seal is not working properly. everything looks to be in order though. Is there a chance that I have over filled it with 3.7 quarts causing this? Since I don't have a stock dipstick, I am not sure how much oil should be in the engine with remote mount filter & oil cooler.

Are you driving the seal in just flush?

Ray mentioned some blocks are cut different there and need a deeper seal.
I have always just driven flush.

I have had one engine where just flush would eat the seal immediately on startup.

helowrench wrote:I have had one engine where just flush would eat the seal immediately on startup.

T4?

YEP! 8mm and 10mm seals.....
SEAT the seal FULLY.

Don

Weird, have never had an issue.

I agree, the seal needs to seated all the way in. And there has been an issue with that particular seal from others, I had to replace one on a recent build. The spring in the rubber seal was weak compared to the one that I replaced it with.

How is the sealing surface on the flywheel ? And you did replace the crank seal in the flywheel. It looks like it is leaking past the flywheel seal.

And I usually tap all 5 Main galley plugs.

The seal appars to be set just inside the case (not flush) and it looks to be in great condition. I have a new seal & the one that is installed looks identical to the new one. It does not look damaged or worn in any way. Maybe it is leaking around the outside of the seal? I can faintly see where the seal was in contact with the FW & the the new seal fits snugly at this area. The surface of the FW looks very smooth & shows no wear. There appears to be a seal like an O ring in the flywheel. I did not install any of these seals as they were included with the short block build. The leak was fairly bad - probably leaked 3 - 5 TBSP of oil in the 20 min break in period. Could I take the spring out of the seal to compair with the new one?

Richard was asking if you replaced the oring in the flywheel (crank end) seal.

Those get hard and take a set over time, and generally should be replaced every time the FW comes off.
It generally won't leak a LOT, but it will leak if it can.

Also-- What input shaft bearing setup are you using?

Hi Pile - Just edited the email you just read - Ha Ha