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Hey guy, well the motor has a whole 34 miles on it and I have had it up to highway speed(65ish) for three or four 6 mile trips and some around town short runs. I re-checked the valves and number one was good at .006, number two was .005 and the other side was .007(corrected the off ones). She seems to restart almost perfect now, like right away! She cruized at 60 no problem and would drive so straight and I haven't had her aligned yet even after replacing the center link and tierod ends and front struts. It drove so smooth on the long straight roads at 60 but at slower speed I did notice a slight kinda maybe hobble or elipical feel?? The wheels and tires are new but the rear shocks are factory and she is sitting a little low back there?
I am still waiting to get a good thermostat and have set the flaps open.
The motor doesn't seem hot after the drive but I have been driving her at speed only at night when it is cooler here(58-65). When I get the thermostat replaced and recheck the tranny fluid I will go on a longer trip at highway speed! I was thinking of taking a spare tranny check plug and drilling a hole in the middle and put a test level nipple in it and was also thinking of a reservior off it that could hold a little fluid as backup??
I still haven't figured out the why the brake light is on at the seatbelt/brake light(rectangle) warning light that is to the left of the gauges and still need to figure out where the horn wire plugs from the horns since when I put it in at the relay only open plug it will be fine till I turn the blicker on or hit the horn it will stays on(the Horn)?? I really want to add a oil pressure gauge and tach next! At 45 in fourth gear the throttle is just open and the motor is just hummin! What is the break in points? How long should I run it for the first few hundred miles? I was going to change the oil at a hundred miles. Thx bill

hi, bill, d,t go more 3k rpm or 60 mil.hrs for the first 1kmil. and at 600mils you change oil, filter and reajust the valves ,and make shure for your ,,tdc,,,, is with the piston, no, 1 , and put your thermostat ( more safe ),,alb.

oh, bill, if you have remoove the distributor shaft in the motor wend you have restore your motor , make attention if the distributor mark is not enligne with the piston no3 on the fan weell (second red mark ( sometime black ) that can geeve bad valve ajustment ,,,alb.

The seat belt light will stay on...if the seat belt is not plugged in. If you have anything over about 10-12 pounds sitting in the passenger seat and teh seat belt is not plugged in....the light will stay on. Also...look under the front seats. There is a two prong plug for each warning mechanism that plugs into a receptacle near teh front of the floo plate. Check lal teh wires and plugs. Also check teh wires that are under the sheithing on teh female side of the seat belt latches. Ray

Thanks for the reply guys! Well the miles are probably more like 60 miles on the motor since I noticed the odometer isn't moving now but the speedo works and I filled the tank after the rebuild. The seatbelt light isn't on just the bottom light the brake light of that warming pair lights.
I toke her on a 20 mile trip today at 60mph and did feel the wind effect on the way out but back the wind had died down. I checked the temp with my multimeter temp probe in the dip stick tube and it was 193degrees and the probe reached oil and it was right when I got home.
It is funny how readjusting the small valve differences has effected the way it starts now which is almost right away!! I think I'm gonna change the oil when I get to half a tank but not the filter till 500 miles. Should I recheck the valves again then? thx bill
p.s. the spark plugs look sweet when I did the valves(very lightish brown to clean)