I need a good 74 412 coupe decklid ASAP
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Vgonman
- Posts: 635
- Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:01 am
I need a good 74 412 coupe decklid ASAP
Hello,
I have my 412 at the body shop and the decklid on mine after blasting looks like swiss cheese. I have been saving up for a long time to make this car a fantastic daily driver, and a good decklid could save both time and money. The body and paint work already is costing a fortune....and i am not a rich man at all.
So I reach out to those of you with parts stashes.........I need one that is in really great shape. Please reply or pmail me at vgonman@bellsouth.net.
I have my 412 at the body shop and the decklid on mine after blasting looks like swiss cheese. I have been saving up for a long time to make this car a fantastic daily driver, and a good decklid could save both time and money. The body and paint work already is costing a fortune....and i am not a rich man at all.
So I reach out to those of you with parts stashes.........I need one that is in really great shape. Please reply or pmail me at vgonman@bellsouth.net.
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
412 decklid
try this adress,,, car parts.com ,,, they are association of scrap yard in all the usa ,,, look for vw 412 and ask for your parts ,,,albert
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
You are looking for the holy grail. About 95% of what you find will look this.
The simplest way to fix this...even though it does not sound simple....is to get a dremel....a steady hand....and a stack of cut-off wheels.
Look at the inside of the lid. See the rolled seam around teh lip where the inside is crimped together with the outside skin and spotwelded? You need to use that lip for a cutting guide...and cut all the way around the circumference. You need to do it clean. Then pop the two inner struts loose visible through the louvers ....and seprate the inner shell from the outer.
Scrape out the foam. Do NOT sandblast or media blast these parts. Use muriatic acid (swimming pool acid). It will totally disolve all rust down to bare metal. Now you can see what you really have.
This sounds like a poor method...but the really simplest thing to do is to tack weld flat shaped strips of steel to the inside....where no one can see them once you put it back together. Then fill with solder and and shape it on the outside. Treat the entire thing with phosphoric acid.
Or...you can trim all teh wholes to regular shapes and have steel patches welded in by a skilled person....the use hammer and dolly to straighten the whole outer skin.
Reinstalling the inner plate can be done one of three ways. (1) tack weld the inner piece back with just a few welds. Smooth them...then fill the groove from the cut-off wheel ...and shape carefully. (2) Or braize it all around...but that risks warping (3) use very high tack construction ashesive to reattache the two parts...and shape the goo in the groove. That should work as well as anything. Ray
The simplest way to fix this...even though it does not sound simple....is to get a dremel....a steady hand....and a stack of cut-off wheels.
Look at the inside of the lid. See the rolled seam around teh lip where the inside is crimped together with the outside skin and spotwelded? You need to use that lip for a cutting guide...and cut all the way around the circumference. You need to do it clean. Then pop the two inner struts loose visible through the louvers ....and seprate the inner shell from the outer.
Scrape out the foam. Do NOT sandblast or media blast these parts. Use muriatic acid (swimming pool acid). It will totally disolve all rust down to bare metal. Now you can see what you really have.
This sounds like a poor method...but the really simplest thing to do is to tack weld flat shaped strips of steel to the inside....where no one can see them once you put it back together. Then fill with solder and and shape it on the outside. Treat the entire thing with phosphoric acid.
Or...you can trim all teh wholes to regular shapes and have steel patches welded in by a skilled person....the use hammer and dolly to straighten the whole outer skin.
Reinstalling the inner plate can be done one of three ways. (1) tack weld the inner piece back with just a few welds. Smooth them...then fill the groove from the cut-off wheel ...and shape carefully. (2) Or braize it all around...but that risks warping (3) use very high tack construction ashesive to reattache the two parts...and shape the goo in the groove. That should work as well as anything. Ray
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
decklid asap
hi vgonman , i know a adress in germany woere you can buy , right side or left side for the 412 , brand new ,nos , this parts is complet , from the front door post to the rear atch and from the top rail to the floor for appx 250.$euro and you can buy there, front and rear fenders nos ,,, but if you want my trick for to repair at the chip price ,,buy a rear fender ,on samba and cut the parts you want ,, you have the exact curve for the fender were your rust is , same thing ray said were he have foam and resolder ,,, oh my adress in germany is ,,,volswagen warehouse ,,, they speak german but you can see the pictures if you take english section they show only the small portion of the parts but stay in the german language and you see all the bunch ,,,albert
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
decklid assp
ho , the ray idee is the best ,for to reemoove the rust but one thing , wash the acid with the wather ,, for one reson , all that , go inside of the heathing duck , not in the heathing tube but the square duck ( frame ) and wend your solder job is finish spay rust protector (poor 15) by inside of the car , and in the same time you can clean the heather tube with long steell wire ( strong ) ( old gas cable ) appx 10 feets long , remoove the front air hose and remoove the rear hot air damper , onder the car , and pas the steell wire with old rag , in the hoock of the steell wire appx. 1 1/2 " diameter and start the job by the front floor heat damper to the rear outside damper , and pul the steell wire with the rag at the end , inside the round heathing tube ,,, make very attention , for the rag d,t stay inside the tube , make safe and strong instalation ,,,and you find big surprise ,, the rag come black ,, start with small rag 1/2 " diameter and pas 2-3 times with bigger rag .. maximum 1 1/2"diameter ,,,
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
I can't get to my parts right now, but maybe check with these guys- they are parting out a 2dr. or selling it complete-
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=314222
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=314222
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Yeah, dude, I didn't forget you had a two door!
Look at the pics again- there is a sedan there- I believe it is complete minus engine. Here it is, found a better ad for it- decklid looks kind of rusty now that I look carefully...
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=275310
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/ ... ?id=275310
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albert
- Posts: 834
- Joined: Mon Mar 22, 2004 2:08 pm
coupe deack lead asap
hi, vgonman ,, look in the ,,,car-parts.com ,,, austin veedub.inc ,,,they have that ,,,in tx.usa ,,,,to far for you ,,,, albert
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Vgonman
- Posts: 635
- Joined: Wed May 01, 2002 1:01 am
Albert and Ubercrap,
thanks for the help. I will check out those sites. Here is some funny info for you guys, though. Ubercrap, remember the link to the samba cars? Well I emailed the guy, and he sent me pics of the decklid on the car. Let me tell you, if i put mine in the rain for 30 years it would still be better! And the price? $150 and shipping. The guy goes by the name of Fran and the site is www.volksrepair.com needless to say I was surprised that there may be suckers out there to pay such a price for such junk........maybe if it was a splittie or a Heb..............
thanks for the help. I will check out those sites. Here is some funny info for you guys, though. Ubercrap, remember the link to the samba cars? Well I emailed the guy, and he sent me pics of the decklid on the car. Let me tell you, if i put mine in the rain for 30 years it would still be better! And the price? $150 and shipping. The guy goes by the name of Fran and the site is www.volksrepair.com needless to say I was surprised that there may be suckers out there to pay such a price for such junk........maybe if it was a splittie or a Heb..............
- ubercrap
- Posts: 1394
- Joined: Sun Apr 18, 2004 8:00 pm
Oh my! That price is preposterous. They were selling the entire car for $150 before!Vgonman wrote:Albert and Ubercrap,
thanks for the help. I will check out those sites. Here is some funny info for you guys, though. Ubercrap, remember the link to the samba cars? Well I emailed the guy, and he sent me pics of the decklid on the car. Let me tell you, if i put mine in the rain for 30 years it would still be better! And the price? $150 and shipping. The guy goes by the name of Fran and the site is www.volksrepair.com needless to say I was surprised that there may be suckers out there to pay such a price for such junk........maybe if it was a splittie or a Heb..............
- raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Signs of the times. Like I noted a couple years ago. These cars are getting popular...and coming out of the woodwork. They will always be rare...numerically. The movement is too little too late to ever have large numbers restored. That means a parts scarcity.
Supply and demand will raise prices.
But I agree. $150 for a decklid WITH rust holes...is bad news.
But bear inb mind. In a couple of years....unless something drastic happens....some peopel will be begging for even the rusted lid.
Right now we are all finding some awesome deals. Complete cars for a couple hundred or less. But....the signs are already out there. What LOOK like pristine cars being sold by private sellers and on E-bay...fetching moderate to high prices.
I say LOOK LIKE pristine....because as a community....we have come to appreciate that with a type 4 vehicle.....a straight body...nice new paint, a usable interior and a running engine....can still easily require thosuands more $ to actually be usable as a daily driver.
Every sale of a 411 or 412...especially online....leaves a record. People with access to wrecks and running cars sitting in yards and barns.....are watching the activity....waiting for values and desperation to rise.
Do not throw things away. Do not cut sheet metal and suspension parts by any means. If you can use it, or save it...give it away.
Even a rusted hulk like thsoe pictured.....will have hundereds of small type 4 only parts to fill buckets. They may look like $150 vehciles right now...but in a couple of years the parts alone will command a lot.
Don't know exactly what point I am trying to make here....but just that we maybe should not expect somethings to be so cheap...considering the rarity....but also to do anything we can to prevent blatent rip-offs.
Sad part is that when noone gives this goober his $150.....the lid will probably get scrapped. Ray
Supply and demand will raise prices.
But I agree. $150 for a decklid WITH rust holes...is bad news.
But bear inb mind. In a couple of years....unless something drastic happens....some peopel will be begging for even the rusted lid.
Right now we are all finding some awesome deals. Complete cars for a couple hundred or less. But....the signs are already out there. What LOOK like pristine cars being sold by private sellers and on E-bay...fetching moderate to high prices.
I say LOOK LIKE pristine....because as a community....we have come to appreciate that with a type 4 vehicle.....a straight body...nice new paint, a usable interior and a running engine....can still easily require thosuands more $ to actually be usable as a daily driver.
Every sale of a 411 or 412...especially online....leaves a record. People with access to wrecks and running cars sitting in yards and barns.....are watching the activity....waiting for values and desperation to rise.
Do not throw things away. Do not cut sheet metal and suspension parts by any means. If you can use it, or save it...give it away.
Even a rusted hulk like thsoe pictured.....will have hundereds of small type 4 only parts to fill buckets. They may look like $150 vehciles right now...but in a couple of years the parts alone will command a lot.
Don't know exactly what point I am trying to make here....but just that we maybe should not expect somethings to be so cheap...considering the rarity....but also to do anything we can to prevent blatent rip-offs.
Sad part is that when noone gives this goober his $150.....the lid will probably get scrapped. Ray