I have never tried to get the gas heater on my '72 411 working but would like to. The 411 has an L-jet FI system off of a Bay bus installed which forced me to remove and block off the connection from the auxilary fan to the right heater box. Does it make any difference to the gas heater if it gets more air flow from one heater box than it does from the other? What about if I were to fire it up when the engine is not running and there was no flow from the right side would I be hurting anything?
Thanks
Gas Heater Question
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SureFit Travis
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:23 pm
Hey there,
I actually spent a bit of time to go through the entire electrical and fuel system of my gas heater this summer to get it going again as it wasn't working when I bought this 412 of mine in April.
Now, one of my car's issues was leaking pushrod tube seals, which seeped into the heater boxes. This created an oily film to build up on the inside of the windows, which would accumulate after driving the car for a week. Cleaning them every week was becoming redundant. So.....to temporarily solve this issue, I disconnected the paper/foil hoses (okay, destroyed them in the process) from the heater boxes to the gas heater.
This is where my story starts to have some value.
Upon testing my newly freshened gas heater, I found that it worked great......it fired up, heated up......and then over-heated and kicked off. It didn't push any heat into the car, though, because it wasn't getting any of the airflow through the gas heater's heat exchanger, due to my removal of those hoses.
This unit needs to have that blower fan connected to push the air through the heating system, or it will simply overheat and either blow fuses or trip the breaker. Or worse, you could catch one of our beloved type-4's on fire. Shame!
Shame!
I am not familiar with the L-Jet system, or why you needed to disconnect your fan/hose, but I'm sure someone will chime in with a solution for you. If it were me, though, I wouldn't run it without having both hoses connected from that blower fan. I dunno, maybe it's like only having one lung.......breathing is a bit compromised, but still possible.........I just wouldn't be running any marathons.
Hope this is of some help.
Travis
I actually spent a bit of time to go through the entire electrical and fuel system of my gas heater this summer to get it going again as it wasn't working when I bought this 412 of mine in April.
Now, one of my car's issues was leaking pushrod tube seals, which seeped into the heater boxes. This created an oily film to build up on the inside of the windows, which would accumulate after driving the car for a week. Cleaning them every week was becoming redundant. So.....to temporarily solve this issue, I disconnected the paper/foil hoses (okay, destroyed them in the process) from the heater boxes to the gas heater.
This is where my story starts to have some value.
Upon testing my newly freshened gas heater, I found that it worked great......it fired up, heated up......and then over-heated and kicked off. It didn't push any heat into the car, though, because it wasn't getting any of the airflow through the gas heater's heat exchanger, due to my removal of those hoses.
This unit needs to have that blower fan connected to push the air through the heating system, or it will simply overheat and either blow fuses or trip the breaker. Or worse, you could catch one of our beloved type-4's on fire. Shame!
Shame!I am not familiar with the L-Jet system, or why you needed to disconnect your fan/hose, but I'm sure someone will chime in with a solution for you. If it were me, though, I wouldn't run it without having both hoses connected from that blower fan. I dunno, maybe it's like only having one lung.......breathing is a bit compromised, but still possible.........I just wouldn't be running any marathons.
Hope this is of some help.
Travis
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11910
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
A couple things. First, the electric blower fan should have both hoses. Even L-jet had them...but L-jet also had some odd shapped pieces of plastic trunking that helped to get around the AFM.
If things are hooked up properly....the system should not even start if two wires to the electric blower are not hooked up. And...as mentioned.....the high limit switch will shut the unit down if you are moving light to light or sitting still. At highway speeds, there is plenty of airflow to not need the electric fan.
Also...down below in the joint area where the aluminum cooling fan housing for the engine meets teh sheet metal of teh heater boxes....there is an aluminum flap in each side. This is an anti-backflow flap. These must be free moving and in place for the electric fan to be fully effective at idle.
Its really worth it to do a couple major pieces of maitenance.
(1) replace all of the fuel line. I replaced mine with 3 or 4mm steel line. Much safer. If not...you should replace the line...and clamp it....every winter.
(2) pull the unit out at some point and remove the elctric turbocharger. Take teh cap offf each end and cleann each pair of trigger points (one is for the fuel pump the other is ignition). Put high temp, low flow grease...like syncho superlube....and file the points and set the gap to .016".
(3) Clean and gap teh glow plug.
(4) make sure the tailpipe is clean, not rusted and clamped very well.
(5) Replace teh 0-rings on the joint where the turbo blower clamps in.
(6) Make very sure that your heater cables are properly adjusted so they open teh heater boxes all teh way. Ray
If things are hooked up properly....the system should not even start if two wires to the electric blower are not hooked up. And...as mentioned.....the high limit switch will shut the unit down if you are moving light to light or sitting still. At highway speeds, there is plenty of airflow to not need the electric fan.
Also...down below in the joint area where the aluminum cooling fan housing for the engine meets teh sheet metal of teh heater boxes....there is an aluminum flap in each side. This is an anti-backflow flap. These must be free moving and in place for the electric fan to be fully effective at idle.
Its really worth it to do a couple major pieces of maitenance.
(1) replace all of the fuel line. I replaced mine with 3 or 4mm steel line. Much safer. If not...you should replace the line...and clamp it....every winter.
(2) pull the unit out at some point and remove the elctric turbocharger. Take teh cap offf each end and cleann each pair of trigger points (one is for the fuel pump the other is ignition). Put high temp, low flow grease...like syncho superlube....and file the points and set the gap to .016".
(3) Clean and gap teh glow plug.
(4) make sure the tailpipe is clean, not rusted and clamped very well.
(5) Replace teh 0-rings on the joint where the turbo blower clamps in.
(6) Make very sure that your heater cables are properly adjusted so they open teh heater boxes all teh way. Ray
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
I had done most of what Ray recommends when I had the engine and tranny out a couple of years ago. The heater actually looks like it has barely been run as it from California there is no soot and zero apparent rust. When I installed the L-jet air cleaner off of a van it ended up sitting almost directly over the right heater box inlet so even the van style plastic duct will no longer fit. I have several options and am looking for the easiest one.
1. Install the air cleaner/AFM for a '74 T4, this will require building mounts that I do not have, and don't know exactly what they look like.
2. Fab an offset duct that will clear the existing air cleaner.
3. Hook up the fan to the left side only and see what happens.
The last is obviously the easiest if it will work. Do the two heat exchangers dump into a common chamber in the heater or are the two sides seperate? If the air from the two sides stays seperated option three will most likely not work.
Another question I have is how does the heater get its fuel flow when the engine is not running? It appears to me that it must back flow through the fuel return line and therefore it will be unfiltered fuel. I wouldn't think that this would be too much of a problem if the unit isn't run much without the engine running. Thoughts?
1. Install the air cleaner/AFM for a '74 T4, this will require building mounts that I do not have, and don't know exactly what they look like.
2. Fab an offset duct that will clear the existing air cleaner.
3. Hook up the fan to the left side only and see what happens.
The last is obviously the easiest if it will work. Do the two heat exchangers dump into a common chamber in the heater or are the two sides seperate? If the air from the two sides stays seperated option three will most likely not work.
Another question I have is how does the heater get its fuel flow when the engine is not running? It appears to me that it must back flow through the fuel return line and therefore it will be unfiltered fuel. I wouldn't think that this would be too much of a problem if the unit isn't run much without the engine running. Thoughts?
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11910
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
So the main problem is that the AFM is from a bus correct? Is this a wagon or a sedan?
I have worked on not as many L-jet 412's....so the memory is faint. But..I think you must possibly unbolt the normal air cleaner pedestal from the right hand side of the engine compartment for all of the L-jet trunking to fit.
But I am also pretty sure that L-jet used the wagon style fan set-up with teh fan on teh left side of the engine compartment and ducting running from a square opening "Y"...with a short hose to the left and a long hose to teh right. It then had a very low profile plastic elbow that went to the right hand chimmney to the heater box. I think I can get a part# from my plastic boot.
I think the thing that is getting you is not having teh type 4 air cleaner for L-jet. I think it was unique. Ray
I have worked on not as many L-jet 412's....so the memory is faint. But..I think you must possibly unbolt the normal air cleaner pedestal from the right hand side of the engine compartment for all of the L-jet trunking to fit.
But I am also pretty sure that L-jet used the wagon style fan set-up with teh fan on teh left side of the engine compartment and ducting running from a square opening "Y"...with a short hose to the left and a long hose to teh right. It then had a very low profile plastic elbow that went to the right hand chimmney to the heater box. I think I can get a part# from my plastic boot.
I think the thing that is getting you is not having teh type 4 air cleaner for L-jet. I think it was unique. Ray
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
Going through my old junk I have found the bent plastic duct for the right side of a 74 412 it should still fit on my engine even though the bus air cleaner is larger than the 412 one. I don't know if I have the wye piece or not, but I know that I have the single outlet fan someplace, just need to find it.
Looking at the schematics for the heater on Type4.org it looks like the unit may get power from at least two and maybe three different circuit, at least there are three unexplained wires in the diagram. Looking at the diagram where do wires 27 and 28 connect?
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch1/ba4_11f.htm
Looking at the schematics for the heater on Type4.org it looks like the unit may get power from at least two and maybe three different circuit, at least there are three unexplained wires in the diagram. Looking at the diagram where do wires 27 and 28 connect?
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch1/ba4_11f.htm
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SureFit Travis
- Posts: 168
- Joined: Thu Mar 23, 2006 10:23 pm
If you scroll down below that wiring diagram, it does have a listing for every wire by number, as well as a good description on the operation, and how/where it distributes power.
#27 is power into the switch, from the parking light circuit......which makes the knob glow (at a lower intensity) at night when lights are switched on. Makes it nice and easy to find on the dash at night.
Also, when reading these diagrams, remember that the car is German, and the wire colors are referred to in German:
Br - Braun...........brown
Ws - weiß.............white
Ro - Rot................red
Bl - Blau...............blue
Ge - Gelb.............yellow
Gr - Grau.............gray
Gn - Grün............ green
Sw - Schwarzes... black
I think that pretty much covers the colors represented in that diagram.
Good luck.
Travis
#27 is power into the switch, from the parking light circuit......which makes the knob glow (at a lower intensity) at night when lights are switched on. Makes it nice and easy to find on the dash at night.
Also, when reading these diagrams, remember that the car is German, and the wire colors are referred to in German:
Br - Braun...........brown
Ws - weiß.............white
Ro - Rot................red
Bl - Blau...............blue
Ge - Gelb.............yellow
Gr - Grau.............gray
Gn - Grün............ green
Sw - Schwarzes... black
I think that pretty much covers the colors represented in that diagram.
Good luck.
Travis
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11910
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes, that is correct. Wire # 27 is going to teh light switch on the dash. It lights up teh small green lamp in the heater knob when you turn your lights on at night.
#28 does indeed go to the ignition switch. This is so the unit only has power to it when you have teh engine running.
But as you note there are other power sources. There is also a constant powere source hooked to the heater timer unit. But this source is timed only. It is interlocked out of running by itself...unless you push in and turn the heater knob and set the timer. Then you get 10 minutes of heat at a time without turning on the ignition key and energizing # 28.
It must also be noted that once the system is energized, power is pulled from several locations. Do not be tempted to remove the two thick wires that cross teh engine compartment and go to the starter. These are there so upon start up the heater can pull teh large current draw from the most direct point to the battery. This also ensures that the power is constant to the already running heater even when you turn the key to start. Ray
#28 does indeed go to the ignition switch. This is so the unit only has power to it when you have teh engine running.
But as you note there are other power sources. There is also a constant powere source hooked to the heater timer unit. But this source is timed only. It is interlocked out of running by itself...unless you push in and turn the heater knob and set the timer. Then you get 10 minutes of heat at a time without turning on the ignition key and energizing # 28.
It must also be noted that once the system is energized, power is pulled from several locations. Do not be tempted to remove the two thick wires that cross teh engine compartment and go to the starter. These are there so upon start up the heater can pull teh large current draw from the most direct point to the battery. This also ensures that the power is constant to the already running heater even when you turn the key to start. Ray
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
This thing is driving me nuts. Someone has seriously messed with the wiring. The wire that is supposed to supply power the the control relay at terminal "E" has been cut off flush at the plug and is otherwise missing. When I apply power there I at least get the joy of hearing the combustion fan run for the first time.
I think that all of my fuses on that side of the car are messed up. What I believe is that when they cut the wire going to "E" not only did it kill the heater but they no longer could get power to the fuel pump relay for the FI, as terminal 30 on the fuel pump relay appears to have originally been fed through a fuse from the second terminal "E" on the control relay. I think that they then cross plugged the fuse to the pump relay to the one supplying power to the flame safety switch. Confusingly this fuse is not shown on any diagram at Type4.org. Their doing this gave power to the fuel pump relay so the car would run, but really messes with your mind when you are trying to work you way through the wiring for the heater.
My T4 is a 4dr and I don't know if things are wired up the same as on other T4's but I would like it if someone would look at the inline fuse holders on their car and tell me what color wires run in and out of each fuse holder. I think I have it right now that I have recross swapped two of the fuses, but I would feel better if someone could varify the colors for me.
p.s. Swapping the fuse ends now has the fuel pump ticking. Still no ignition, but I am getting closer. I still haven't found where the wire is for the aux fan, or even where the fan is supposed to mount. Is this what the hole in the cooling air intake funnel is for? Mine is closed off.
I think that all of my fuses on that side of the car are messed up. What I believe is that when they cut the wire going to "E" not only did it kill the heater but they no longer could get power to the fuel pump relay for the FI, as terminal 30 on the fuel pump relay appears to have originally been fed through a fuse from the second terminal "E" on the control relay. I think that they then cross plugged the fuse to the pump relay to the one supplying power to the flame safety switch. Confusingly this fuse is not shown on any diagram at Type4.org. Their doing this gave power to the fuel pump relay so the car would run, but really messes with your mind when you are trying to work you way through the wiring for the heater.
My T4 is a 4dr and I don't know if things are wired up the same as on other T4's but I would like it if someone would look at the inline fuse holders on their car and tell me what color wires run in and out of each fuse holder. I think I have it right now that I have recross swapped two of the fuses, but I would feel better if someone could varify the colors for me.
p.s. Swapping the fuse ends now has the fuel pump ticking. Still no ignition, but I am getting closer. I still haven't found where the wire is for the aux fan, or even where the fan is supposed to mount. Is this what the hole in the cooling air intake funnel is for? Mine is closed off.
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
I found the wires for the aux fan tape up in the harness and have the fan installed in the hole in the cooling air funnel. So at this point I have two fans running, spark at the igniter, current for the preheat coil, and the fuel pump is ticking. Almost there, but no fuel flow so I presume that the nozzle is probably plugged. I have two access covers removed, one over the igniter and one over the coil. Is there anyother where the fuel enters the heater?
Still need to check out the power to the timer/temperature switch on the dash. It runs when I pull up the heat lever, but not when I rotate the timer switch. Hopefully the thermostat function will work once I get it to fire.
I am pretty excited this heater obviously has not been run in a long time, maybe decades, there is no soot inside the exhaust outlet nor heat discoloring of the igniter. I am wondering if maybe the original owner had it disabled at the time of purchase?
Still need to check out the power to the timer/temperature switch on the dash. It runs when I pull up the heat lever, but not when I rotate the timer switch. Hopefully the thermostat function will work once I get it to fire.
I am pretty excited this heater obviously has not been run in a long time, maybe decades, there is no soot inside the exhaust outlet nor heat discoloring of the igniter. I am wondering if maybe the original owner had it disabled at the time of purchase?
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11910
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Just be sure of a few things. No matter what you do...make sure that every wire....in the system....is wired exactly like teh factory had it. By that I mean going from where it was to where it was intended to go.
There are numerous failsafes within this heater system. It is complex.
Some things to remember. In the top of the heater unit itself, is a small rubber plug...flat shaped. This is the overheat/high limit switch. If its accidently pushed on too hard, the two wires inside can short to the metal body and consistantly blow the inline fuse inside of the engine compartment (the one with the olive green wires).
Other things. If the green knob on the dash is turned off....and you lift the heater lever on the floor......and anything runs at all (like the auxiliary fan).....you have it wired wrong.
Nothing should run at all until you turn the green knob on the dash.
Also...be sure the engine of the car has been run recently. There must be fuel in that little clear reservoir in the return fuel line from teh fuel system regulator.
Also...ther is a failsafe inside of the timer unit in teh dash. If....it is taking too long for fuel to reach the mantel inside of the chamber and for combustion heat to close the circuit inside of the temperature probe in the chamber.....it will disable the spark capability.
So in general...at the start of the heating season.....when the heater has not been used in a year, the fuel line above the fuel pump will be empty. It takes about 5-7 minutes of pumping to fill it. This is way longer than the failsafe timer allows. You need to run the system for a minute...shut off and recycle...and then run again. Repeat until you get combustion.
Once you get fuel flowing, it pays to simply run the heater for just a few minutes at least every 2-3 days to keep the upper fuel line full....even if the weather is warm.
Then comes the question....how do you know you even have spark?
There is only one way to do this. Have a fire extinguisher handy......but first.........have you....yourself....replaced the fuel line? If not...do it now!
It will be guaranteed to be rotted if it is over two years old.
But the easiest way to make sure you have spark is to pull the plug out of the chamber ...making sure that you have no fuel up to it yet (I disconnect the line down below at the pump)..and then turn the whole thing on. You should see sparks at the plug while everything is running.
But to be sure as well...you need to have taken the blower out down below as maintenance and make sure the points for teh glow plug are clean, unpitted and gapped right.
Doing all of this is easiest with the unit out. In the 2 and 4 door sedan it is actually not too hard. Ther are 4 10mm nots visible from underneath the car. Pull all the wires loose after marking them and disconnecting the battery....unclamp teh tail pipe...and pull the 4 nuts. The whole unit will drop out. Then you can clean it, check the coil and fuel pump trigger points (one pair at each end of the motor)...and replace the fuel line.
I decided at that point to put in steel fuel line and a union at the top end near teh glow plug...and a flexible clamped piece at the bottom. Ray
There are numerous failsafes within this heater system. It is complex.
Some things to remember. In the top of the heater unit itself, is a small rubber plug...flat shaped. This is the overheat/high limit switch. If its accidently pushed on too hard, the two wires inside can short to the metal body and consistantly blow the inline fuse inside of the engine compartment (the one with the olive green wires).
Other things. If the green knob on the dash is turned off....and you lift the heater lever on the floor......and anything runs at all (like the auxiliary fan).....you have it wired wrong.
Nothing should run at all until you turn the green knob on the dash.
Also...be sure the engine of the car has been run recently. There must be fuel in that little clear reservoir in the return fuel line from teh fuel system regulator.
Also...ther is a failsafe inside of the timer unit in teh dash. If....it is taking too long for fuel to reach the mantel inside of the chamber and for combustion heat to close the circuit inside of the temperature probe in the chamber.....it will disable the spark capability.
So in general...at the start of the heating season.....when the heater has not been used in a year, the fuel line above the fuel pump will be empty. It takes about 5-7 minutes of pumping to fill it. This is way longer than the failsafe timer allows. You need to run the system for a minute...shut off and recycle...and then run again. Repeat until you get combustion.
Once you get fuel flowing, it pays to simply run the heater for just a few minutes at least every 2-3 days to keep the upper fuel line full....even if the weather is warm.
Then comes the question....how do you know you even have spark?
There is only one way to do this. Have a fire extinguisher handy......but first.........have you....yourself....replaced the fuel line? If not...do it now!
It will be guaranteed to be rotted if it is over two years old.
But the easiest way to make sure you have spark is to pull the plug out of the chamber ...making sure that you have no fuel up to it yet (I disconnect the line down below at the pump)..and then turn the whole thing on. You should see sparks at the plug while everything is running.
But to be sure as well...you need to have taken the blower out down below as maintenance and make sure the points for teh glow plug are clean, unpitted and gapped right.
Doing all of this is easiest with the unit out. In the 2 and 4 door sedan it is actually not too hard. Ther are 4 10mm nots visible from underneath the car. Pull all the wires loose after marking them and disconnecting the battery....unclamp teh tail pipe...and pull the 4 nuts. The whole unit will drop out. Then you can clean it, check the coil and fuel pump trigger points (one pair at each end of the motor)...and replace the fuel line.
I decided at that point to put in steel fuel line and a union at the top end near teh glow plug...and a flexible clamped piece at the bottom. Ray
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
Ray,
Thanks for the reply. I am 100% certain at this time that everything back in the engine compartment is now wired correctly. I have chased every wire several times at this point. I have good spark at the igniter so all I need now is fuel. The pump pulsates, but I haven't yet removed the line to see if it is actually moving fuel. As I have said before I am not sure this unit has ever been run as the igniter and pipes are perfectly clean with no discolorations due to heat and no soot.
I am guessing that the most likely culprit at this point is a gummed up fuel nozzle. Why VW couldn't have made a single a large access hole for the heater instead of two tiny ones is beyond me. I intend to use a hole saw to cut another hole right over the nozzle as I can't possibly remove the hose at this point. I can barely feel it with my finger and cannot even determine what kind of clamp it has let alone get a tool in there to remove it. If I ever have the heater out of the way again you can bet that I will cut one big hole so I can access all the stuff on top of the heater with ease. For now if the pump checks out I will put a small length of hose on the nozzle and fill it with alcohol and hope that it can work its way through. Do you know if the nozzle can be removed or is it permanently attached to the heater body?
I just have a brass tee where the fuel line splits off, is the original tee filter combo still available, and from where? My local Eperspacher dealer claims there are no parts for a BA4 still available.
Thanks for the reply. I am 100% certain at this time that everything back in the engine compartment is now wired correctly. I have chased every wire several times at this point. I have good spark at the igniter so all I need now is fuel. The pump pulsates, but I haven't yet removed the line to see if it is actually moving fuel. As I have said before I am not sure this unit has ever been run as the igniter and pipes are perfectly clean with no discolorations due to heat and no soot.
I am guessing that the most likely culprit at this point is a gummed up fuel nozzle. Why VW couldn't have made a single a large access hole for the heater instead of two tiny ones is beyond me. I intend to use a hole saw to cut another hole right over the nozzle as I can't possibly remove the hose at this point. I can barely feel it with my finger and cannot even determine what kind of clamp it has let alone get a tool in there to remove it. If I ever have the heater out of the way again you can bet that I will cut one big hole so I can access all the stuff on top of the heater with ease. For now if the pump checks out I will put a small length of hose on the nozzle and fill it with alcohol and hope that it can work its way through. Do you know if the nozzle can be removed or is it permanently attached to the heater body?
I just have a brass tee where the fuel line splits off, is the original tee filter combo still available, and from where? My local Eperspacher dealer claims there are no parts for a BA4 still available.
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wildthings
- Posts: 1171
- Joined: Thu Jun 03, 2004 12:42 am
I finally got time to look at my heater again today and now have heat output. 
The fuel pump was barely putting out maybe 1cc/min. Readjusted it to get about 12 cc/min and it fired right up once the line was primed. The information on Type4.org is somewhat contradictory on the proper fuel pump output. The chart says the fuel flow is supposed to be 23-27cc/min while the text says this is a two(2) minute value. Does anyone know for sure what the flow rate is supposed to be? 23-27cc/min or just half of that???
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch3/ba4_13k.htm
My pump appears to be an Andres pump and there is no way you could possibly set it for an initial adjustment of 1.18inchs for the "a" measurement, the screw can not be turned in that far by at least an 1/8 inch.
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch7/ba4_17b.htm
Still have some work to do as I do not yet have hoses on the aux fan so I can not run the heater unless the engine is revved, but hey I am getting there. Also need to make a cover for the new 3.5inch hole I drilled to get at the clamp on the fuel hose.
Still would like to know if anyone knows a source for the original fuel filter/"T" for the heater.
I don't see anything that states that the fuel pump is polarity sensitive. Does it matter which wire is hooked up to which terminal. I can't notice any difference in the operation when I switch them.
The fuel pump was barely putting out maybe 1cc/min. Readjusted it to get about 12 cc/min and it fired right up once the line was primed. The information on Type4.org is somewhat contradictory on the proper fuel pump output. The chart says the fuel flow is supposed to be 23-27cc/min while the text says this is a two(2) minute value. Does anyone know for sure what the flow rate is supposed to be? 23-27cc/min or just half of that??? http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch3/ba4_13k.htm
My pump appears to be an Andres pump and there is no way you could possibly set it for an initial adjustment of 1.18inchs for the "a" measurement, the screw can not be turned in that far by at least an 1/8 inch.
http://manuals.type4.org/ba4/ch7/ba4_17b.htm
Still have some work to do as I do not yet have hoses on the aux fan so I can not run the heater unless the engine is revved, but hey I am getting there. Also need to make a cover for the new 3.5inch hole I drilled to get at the clamp on the fuel hose.
Still would like to know if anyone knows a source for the original fuel filter/"T" for the heater.
I don't see anything that states that the fuel pump is polarity sensitive. Does it matter which wire is hooked up to which terminal. I can't notice any difference in the operation when I switch them.