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Hi -
Thought I'd seek some input before I drag this engine out again:
This is a 1973 manual bus, single carb. Just got it on the road last week and it was running pretty well, though I was still trying to get the carb adjusted right. All gears moved pretty well - slight bump sometimes getting into first, no problem with reverse
It appears after a recent drive that it is now constantly in a gear - can't find neutral. Start it up when it's supposedly in neutral and it lurches forward.
Finding reverse is really hard now, though I have and bus does move backward. From there, put it in "neutral" and it lurches forward again. Believe it started doing this last night during a 12-mile ride home. It seemed to still seemed to slide through the gears, though downshifting, particularly into second, was a pain - hard time finding it, bit of grinding.
I had the engine and transmission out before putting it on the road. Starting at front, some of the things I did: replaced the shift bushings, replaced clutch cable, accelerator cable, side transmission seals. No sign of leakage in the bell, thought the throwout bearing was good, returns springs looked good, pressure plate, flywheel, etc.
Can't imagine it would be related, but the only thing I did just before this started was replace the rear brake shoes and cylinder the night before. Oh, and I tinkered with the carburator some more.
Haven't driven it since this started.
From reviewing the threads - sounds like pilot bearing. Thoughts?
Now, assuming it is, what are the odds I can do this at home in my garage. Thinking about the gland nut - this needs to come off, right? Isn't that, and getting it back on, better left to a shop?
I was planning to get this to a shop and have the carburation, timing set by the pros and for final inspection. What do folks think it would set me back to just have them replace the pilot bearing?
I'm not afraid of doing this, but I'm getting tired just thinking about it.
Thanks,
Delany

Oh, I see; you're thinking the input shaft has become "welded" to the
flywheel .

Were that true, the car would not lurch in "Neutral".
It would be the same as when the clutch is engaged (pedal up) in Neutral.

Need more clues to pin it down, but I believe you'll be tackling
the gearbox/shifter.

Thanks for replying ...
Think I need a rebuild or could be it in the nosecone?

Possible nosecone. Too tough to diagnose without lots more info.

You might confirm first that the shifter is working properly
all the way back to the rubber coupler. Have a helper move the
shift lever while you watch the motion underneath.
After that, it's gotta be in the box...

http://type2.com/rvanness/transmis.htm
(start about halfway down, under "Nose Cone:")
Of particular interest is the conversion to 091 parts mentioned near the end.
Does the car actually move forward in any gear, or just one? If it's welded itself into a gear - let's say 4th - it'll drive (or roll with the clutch pedal depressed) with the shifter in 4th or Neutral but as soon as you select any other gear you'll have two ratios engaged at once and that will cause things to bind up so you don't move at all.

Jim - I plan to check out the coupler. I seem to recall the rubber inside the cage was kind of loose. So we'll see ...

Marc - it will run in the gears, but run poorly. I can't swear I'm actually hitting the right gears - like I'm in a gear too high (second feels like I'm running in third, third feels like fourth, etc.)
And like I said, when I was able to find reverse, it did move the vehicle back ...

Thanks

www.aircooledengineering.com is a local SLC shop where Art Thraen presides over the aircooled community.He may have some suggestions and can do the work as well should you need it.

check the two bolts that the shifter is bolted in the floor.

crawl under the bus pull the front cover off and check your linkage from front to back.

you can check the nose cone without having to pull the tranny.

Thanks to all for help - it's was the shift rod coupler. The rubber inserts were mush, lot of play before it engaged the hockey stick. A new one cured all the ills ...
Delany

Good news. Since you said you'd replaced the bushings I was assuming you'd already checked the coupler.
Read that type2.com article I linked, though - it's only a matter of time before you'll have to go in and replace that "donut" on the end of the hockey stick.

You know I remember holding that thing in my hand, thinking 'Well, it's marginal, but I bet it will last a while ...'
So there you go - learned a lesson.
I've read that type2 article, think I will be getting in the nose cone soon ...
Delany