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Anyone done this? I heard a motorcycle rotor has the same bolt pattern as a type 1 cv joint does. Just wondering if other people have tried an inboard setup.

This is a highly modified Audi pictured here.

I always admired the Fiat X1/9 for that feature...

Seems like it might be a bit rough on the CVs, but on a RWD car probably not much of an issue.

On a FWD/4WD setup, the fronts would have probable cooling issues and the loads would probably be too much for long term CV life.

hahahahahaha
that would be awesome for spindle mounts on the rear

Piledriver wrote:I always admired the Fiat X1/9 for that feature...

On a FWD/4WD setup, the fronts would have probable cooling issues and the loads would probably be too much for long term CV life.

That's how my Audi 100LS was set up. Never touched the brakes, but I didn't drive it far before other things blew up beyond my abilities at the time. It would be nice to get that weight on the sprung end of things.

melville wrote: It would be nice to get that weight on the sprung end of things.

While it does sound like a good idea to improve the ride, the rear of a VW does not have a problem there due to the rear weight bias. The real problem is at the front. There is so little weight of the car up front that the mass of the front brakes/wheels/tires makes for a crappy ride.

i feel like i've seen inboard brakes on modified formula vee style car.

Older formula fords had inboard disc brakes, they look much like formula vees.

W
H
Y
?

ozzie wrote:W
H
Y
?

To take alot of unsprung weight off of the wheel to make faster in a race car and to improve suspension cycling and reduce wear and tear on an off road car.

It has been done on VW's in the Baja bugs and buggies book page 97 it shows a kit made by Summers Brothers for a wide 5 wheel.

Dan

But the benefits do not equal the negatives. Otherwise you would still see them in most open wheel racing. The two biggest negatives, cooling/aero and maintenance, are substantial enough to render the benefits moot.

But it was fairly common on Hewland type gearboxes in the past. So most of the parts and designs are well known in the vintage racing circles.

I once built and crewed for a "Formula A" Cosworth-engine, March-chassis car back in the late 70's. We took it from boxes of parts to Sebring.

The rear brakes were inboard, and had fiberglas ducting to keep them alive. Pad changes were not bad, however, they came straight out the top of the caliper.

Jaguar made inboard disks brakes popular (a sports car must-have) in the early XKE, and even 70's Subaru's had the oddity of inboard drums on some street cars! A brake job on one of those will sour you on either owning or working on them.

Inboard brakes were one of those apparently good ideas that just cost too much in complexity and serviceability.

The biggest negative with inboard brakes is the fact that on tranmissions like ours they will wear the heck out of the spacer between teh inner cV flange and the differntial side bearings...and they also have a tendency to tear up the bearing and seal.
Do you notice how heavy duty the diff housing and outer flange bolts are on that Audi? Ray

I found out why nobody does it;The starter is in the way

Michael

hey guys i read here all time but never post so if i'm off base chimeing in here just disregard it. looking at the pics this could only be done on irs rear ends right? my question is how safe would this be if you blew a cv joint? the way i'm seeing it you would have no brakes on that tire? or even worse when you did hit the brake the side with the good cv's would be acting as a turning brake? or did i miss somthing?

jpryorx2 wrote:hey guys i read here all time but never post so if i'm off base chimeing in here just disregard it. looking at the pics this could only be done on irs rear ends right? my question is how safe would this be if you blew a cv joint? the way i'm seeing it you would have no brakes on that tire? or even worse when you did hit the brake the side with the good cv's would be acting as a turning brake? or did i miss somthing?

How different would this be from blowing out a wheel cylinder? If it's on the rear, it's not like the car won't stop. It takes a lot to break a CV from high HP I'm assuming you're saying. Breaking a CV from wear and tear, sorry, they give you a LOT of notice well before hand with weeks or months of clicking, unless you're off-roading or something and snap a CV hitting a rock or ditch or whatnot.