Just got rid of a quick shift bit of rubbish trying to improve my gear change and now I'm not sure if I have put this around the right way.
Does the short bit go to the left or right when it is in place at the base of the gearstick?
Cheers Guys
Which way round does this bit go?
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wshawn
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:36 am
Which way round does this bit go?
Just got rid of a quick shift bit of rubbish trying to improve my gear change and now I'm not sure if I have put this around the right way.
Does the short bit go to the left or right when it is in place at the base of the gearstick?
Cheers Guys
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
I am going off memory....so other chime in....but the small side goes right like you have it.
Don't bother even starting to try to adjust your shifter until:
(1) new from shift rod bushing
(2) Make sure that the plastic support disc at the rear of the tunnel is properly fitted.
(3) The rear hanger bar, mid hanger bar bushing and the tail cone bushing is properly centered and free floating as per factory.
(4) There is tight fit of both shaft couplers in the rear with no slop. Ray
Don't bother even starting to try to adjust your shifter until:
(1) new from shift rod bushing
(2) Make sure that the plastic support disc at the rear of the tunnel is properly fitted.
(3) The rear hanger bar, mid hanger bar bushing and the tail cone bushing is properly centered and free floating as per factory.
(4) There is tight fit of both shaft couplers in the rear with no slop. Ray
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wshawn
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:36 am
I think I have found part of the problem, if not all of it.
The bush that goes around the front end of the gear selector rod is no longer around the selector rod but was in two halves hiding amongst the crap in the bottom of the tunnel.
I have been told that bush is the same as a Type 1 bush so have got one in, a quick look and it kind of looks like the rod has to be withdrawn from the hole it sits in at the front of tunnelto be able to seat the new bush.
Would disconnecting the rod from the linkage where it exits the rear of the tunnel give me the clearance required to seat the new bush or as I am now fearing the whole engine/gearbox need to be removed?
Bugger springs to mind quite quickly
The bush that goes around the front end of the gear selector rod is no longer around the selector rod but was in two halves hiding amongst the crap in the bottom of the tunnel.
I have been told that bush is the same as a Type 1 bush so have got one in, a quick look and it kind of looks like the rod has to be withdrawn from the hole it sits in at the front of tunnelto be able to seat the new bush.
Would disconnecting the rod from the linkage where it exits the rear of the tunnel give me the clearance required to seat the new bush or as I am now fearing the whole engine/gearbox need to be removed?
Bugger springs to mind quite quickly
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Just disconnect the coupling at the rear and drop the rod down.
Its a tough job getting that bushing in. Very hard to reach.
The type 4 will also have other shifting issues. Everything else I noted must be spot on.
If the rear hanger bar bushings go bad...your shifting will suffer.
If the midbar bushings go bad over the bell housing...your shiftinmg will get bad.
If the tail bushing goes out...shifting gets bad.
If the coupler gets sloppy...bad shifting.
If any of the mentioned bushings is incorrrectly adjusted...and there are numerous adjustments in the system...shifting will be poor. Ray
Its a tough job getting that bushing in. Very hard to reach.
The type 4 will also have other shifting issues. Everything else I noted must be spot on.
If the rear hanger bar bushings go bad...your shifting will suffer.
If the midbar bushings go bad over the bell housing...your shiftinmg will get bad.
If the tail bushing goes out...shifting gets bad.
If the coupler gets sloppy...bad shifting.
If any of the mentioned bushings is incorrrectly adjusted...and there are numerous adjustments in the system...shifting will be poor. Ray
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Yes That is correct Albert! Thats a very hard to diagnose issue. If your clutch system has air in it or is going bad or out of adjustment....shifting between 1 and 2 is difficult...though 3 and 4 are easy.
Many times this makes a driver think that the syncros are shot on 1 and 2.
If they do have a little wear in them...the clutch slave issue makes it even harder to shift.
If you have other things a little out of adjustment...like bushings or drivetrain alignment...it can be alssmost impossible to diagnose.
This is whay I say....before atempting to adjust shifter...make sure the drive train alignment is done properly. Then check the clutch pedal adjustment and bleed teh clutch. Then adjust the shifter. Ray
Many times this makes a driver think that the syncros are shot on 1 and 2.
If they do have a little wear in them...the clutch slave issue makes it even harder to shift.
If you have other things a little out of adjustment...like bushings or drivetrain alignment...it can be alssmost impossible to diagnose.
This is whay I say....before atempting to adjust shifter...make sure the drive train alignment is done properly. Then check the clutch pedal adjustment and bleed teh clutch. Then adjust the shifter. Ray
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wshawn
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:36 am
But seeing how the bush is shot to pieces at the front I'll change that first then see what happens.
When ever I have the problems changing gear, finding second, it feels more like a linkage problem as you can feel it click at the bottom of the gearstick after wiggling the gear stick side to side and a little it is possible to find the "groove" for second and it slips straight in.
When I change gear slowly/carefully making sure it all lines correctly the gears slide in nice and easy both up and down.
When ever I have the problems changing gear, finding second, it feels more like a linkage problem as you can feel it click at the bottom of the gearstick after wiggling the gear stick side to side and a little it is possible to find the "groove" for second and it slips straight in.
When I change gear slowly/carefully making sure it all lines correctly the gears slide in nice and easy both up and down.
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raygreenwood
- Posts: 11912
- Joined: Wed Jan 22, 2003 12:01 am
Many times that is also sloppy bushings in the drive train package.
You have to remember that in this car...unlike a bug, type 3 or bus...there is NO direct linkage between the tranny and the shift rod.
You have a shift rod that ends in a floating collar. It mates with a solid ball coupling.
Because the engine and drivetrain package are suspended from a single point (the crossbar bushings over the bell housing)...and shimmed from that point (there are 3-6 shims between each cross bar mount and the body).....it is purposly left to "float" at the extreme ends. This means that the tail cone bushing is NOT designed to be in contact with the socket in the suspension cross member....and.....the bushings at the rear hanger bar are not meant to be fully extended or compressed.
These are merely bumpers to allow a small amount of up, down and side to side movement to arrest enertia.
This is why the coupling between the shift rod and tranny "floats"
But...as the bushings rear, center or front either wear or are out of alignment (there are complete alignmnet adjustments available at the ends of teh rear hanger bar...the entire mount is also in slots in the body)....the ball floats to far in and out of the coupling causing shorter and longer shifter arcs/throws.
Its a telltale or poor alignment and mounting bushings...that the movement of the shift rod has a habit of prematurely destroying the front shiftrod bushing. Ray
You have to remember that in this car...unlike a bug, type 3 or bus...there is NO direct linkage between the tranny and the shift rod.
You have a shift rod that ends in a floating collar. It mates with a solid ball coupling.
Because the engine and drivetrain package are suspended from a single point (the crossbar bushings over the bell housing)...and shimmed from that point (there are 3-6 shims between each cross bar mount and the body).....it is purposly left to "float" at the extreme ends. This means that the tail cone bushing is NOT designed to be in contact with the socket in the suspension cross member....and.....the bushings at the rear hanger bar are not meant to be fully extended or compressed.
These are merely bumpers to allow a small amount of up, down and side to side movement to arrest enertia.
This is why the coupling between the shift rod and tranny "floats"
But...as the bushings rear, center or front either wear or are out of alignment (there are complete alignmnet adjustments available at the ends of teh rear hanger bar...the entire mount is also in slots in the body)....the ball floats to far in and out of the coupling causing shorter and longer shifter arcs/throws.
Its a telltale or poor alignment and mounting bushings...that the movement of the shift rod has a habit of prematurely destroying the front shiftrod bushing. Ray
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wshawn
- Posts: 209
- Joined: Thu Dec 27, 2007 6:36 am
I have got the bush in question at the front end of the shift rod done now. In the end I disconnected the rod from the ball joint connection where it exits the rear of the tunnel and links to the gear box. With a little gentle pursuasion the rod was then moved back far enough to fall out of the support bracket at the front revealing the hole for me to insert the new bush. I was then able to put the rod back into the new bush in the bracket, refasten the rear connection and the job was done within 45 minutes.
I am now awaiting the delivery of the little plastic cup the bottom end of the gearstick sits in on the shift rod and then I can see if it was worthwhile doing. First indications are there is far less slop on the rod so...fingers crossed
By the way Ray as far I can tell from you descriptions the other bushes and linkages all look in good order, shall be able to tell better when I can replace the plastic cup and can drive it again.
I am now awaiting the delivery of the little plastic cup the bottom end of the gearstick sits in on the shift rod and then I can see if it was worthwhile doing. First indications are there is far less slop on the rod so...fingers crossed
By the way Ray as far I can tell from you descriptions the other bushes and linkages all look in good order, shall be able to tell better when I can replace the plastic cup and can drive it again.