Fuel Pump Woes

can86 · Post by **can86** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:17 am

The fuel pump on my 411 is not longer working after sitting for the past winter... The pump is only a year old (Carter from rockauto).

I know that the pump is receiving the proper voltage when the key is turned on and when I try to start the car, but the pump doesn't run at all. I took the pump apart and everything looked fine, but it still doesn't run.

Does anyone have any other suggestions? I hate to have to buy another one as they are so expensive, especially if this one only lasted a year. I know other pumps can be used with some modification. Any thoughts? Thank you

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 8:53 am

First...connect it up directly to 12 volts. If it does not run..its shot.
In many cases its corrosion or carbon on the fuel pump relay, or could be corrosion on the main positive lead attached to teh battery terminal under the seat.
Is this carbs or injection? Ray

can86 · Post by **can86** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 2:39 pm

The pump is getting power, but doesn't do anything... I even hooked up 12 volts to it and still nothing

It's a bummer because it is only a year old.

The car is fuel injected - Should I grunt the money for another stock unit? Or retrofit a similar inline style pump? I would like to do the most reliable setup without spending a near $400...

wildthings · Post by **wildthings** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 2:53 pm

How is your ground connection. You should have 12 Volts on one side of the pump and zero on the other.

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 2:59 pm

One thing that can kill most pumps that sit still...is moisture!
I note that you are in "cheeseland"

. I would bet that you get a lot of water in the gas.

All it takes is to have a few beads of water in the pump when you shut down for the winter. I learned in high school with my first 411 that the type 3 and 4 easrly injected vehicles are hideously more sensitive to water in the fuel than newer vehicle systems. You have to be religious about fuel dryers.

Have you looked at Walbro pumps? Good pumps...reasonable.
Make sure you get aroller cell pump. The turbine pumps get trashed easier. Ray

can86 · Post by **can86** » Wed Aug 13, 2008 7:38 pm

Are there roller cell pumps that are cheaper than the $380-$400 stock units?

From some stuff I have read, it seems one options is to go with a cheaper turbine pump...Do all I need to worry about it the pressure/volume it carries?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 4:56 am

Yes. be sure is carries teh correct pressure, volume and electrical load rating....and be sure it does not requirea feeder pump. Ray

shawn62 · Post by **shawn62** » Thu Aug 14, 2008 6:10 am

Ray,

you have a PM.

can86 · Post by **can86** » Mon Sep 29, 2008 9:19 pm

Finally got some time to figure a few things out...

I talked to Jake at Raby's Aircooled and he recommended an MSD pump (#2225). http://www.jegs.com/i/MSD/121/2225/10002/-1 He has had this pump on his 912 for over 100,000 miles, so he has had good luck with it...

My only question is: Being an inline style pump with only an in and an out, how should I route the third line that the stock unit has? Doesn't that third one act as a discharge line run through a relief valve?

raygreenwood · Post by **raygreenwood** » Tue Sep 30, 2008 5:16 am

Probably a good pump. They have sane #'s for advertising. Too many pumps advertize what they deliver at "peak" pressure. 42 psi is about what you expect for a constant pressure system reading. Price is good too.

On your existing pump the "R" or return/relief line plumbs into the return line from the regulator at a "Y". You still use the same pattern. The return line from the regulator goes to the fuel tank return line and "Y"'s to teh inlet side of the pump. Ray

can86 · Post by **can86** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 6:48 am

Pump is in and she fired right up!!

It's running very well, but now I have an injector leaking like a siv. It looks like it is actually the injector and not the seal, because it is gushing out so much fuel.

OH, and now the brake pedal feels like a sponge and sticks all the way down... rebuild master time? fun fun!!

shawn62 · Post by **shawn62** » Wed Oct 08, 2008 7:01 pm

Is the injector leaking or the hose that is part of the injector? If it is the hose you can carefully cut the metal sleeve that holds the hose to the injector with a Dremel, split the hose with a razor knife and it will come right off. There is a nipple that is part of the injector that you can cut 7 mm fuel hose to length and use 2 wire clamps. Save some money this way and it works well.