What are the better heads & where can I get em?
Have a 79 2L with a rebuilt engine & FI.
2yrs ago redid the #1 for a sunken valve. Last year redid the #3. Now the #1 seems to be dead again.
Mine say AMC on them BTW.
Thanks in advance
Where do you get good quality head(s)?
- Piledriver
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Hmmm.. I would get a pair of CHT sensors on there and rent/beg/borrow/steal a WBO2 setup before firing it up with new heads.
Make sure you leave the head gaskets OUT as well... Damage waiting to happen.
2-3 degrees of timing has been repeatedly shown to be able to cause a 50 degree difference in head temps, and running just a tiny bit lean can cause the same... Combined with a small vac leak or three, that can make for mighty soft heads, esp with the junk AMC seats and valves.
The factory timing marks are also frequently wrong, so verify TDC while you have it out/apart.
The AMC head CASTINGS are great, but yours may be toast if they were overheated.
Visit/browse around the type4um for T4 engine specific info, much info there.
Make sure you leave the head gaskets OUT as well... Damage waiting to happen.
2-3 degrees of timing has been repeatedly shown to be able to cause a 50 degree difference in head temps, and running just a tiny bit lean can cause the same... Combined with a small vac leak or three, that can make for mighty soft heads, esp with the junk AMC seats and valves.
The factory timing marks are also frequently wrong, so verify TDC while you have it out/apart.
The AMC head CASTINGS are great, but yours may be toast if they were overheated.
Visit/browse around the type4um for T4 engine specific info, much info there.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
- Bleyseng
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kameron
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I am firing up my build in the bus tomorrow, I will let you know how the DRD heads sound, they look fantastic, with taps for the CHT sensors on all four cylinders.
They may be pricey for what you are looking for, but AMC generally make quality castings, it just makes more sense to get bigger valves to keep the head temperatures down.
They may be pricey for what you are looking for, but AMC generally make quality castings, it just makes more sense to get bigger valves to keep the head temperatures down.
- raygreenwood
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- fusername
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sgkent, good first post, heres a chance for a follow up: how did you liike the work rimco did? I have had some very very mixed luck with thier case work, sometimes spot on, other times terrible. How did the heads look when they came back, and what exactly did they do?
welcome aboard
welcome aboard
give a man a watch and he'll allways know what time it is. give him two and he can never be sure again.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
Things are rarely just crazy enough to work, but they're frequently just crazy enough to fail hilariously.
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SGKENT
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The heads have not been run yet as we have been working on the body and driveline but that is done. I worked as a machinist in the 1970's and early 1980's for a guy who built engines and cars for Al Unser Jr so I feel qualified to answer your questions.
At this time the engine is not back together and I have not disassembled their work to blueprint the engine. From what I have seen handling the items, checking cam gear lash, etc, the only issues we had were we changed cams for a different grind and the case needed additional cleaning, I will post back once I check the heads over but having talked with them about the process and I am confident that they did an adequate job. We personally drove from Sacramento to LA (500 miles each way) to interview them before giving them the job. We had them balance the rods. They balanced both the big and little ends seperately so that is a clue. I insepected the score marks from the dial indicator that are left when the rods are resized. Those go all the way around and that is a good sign. I lack the equipment to double check their work on the big end. I will know if the small end is right when I fit the wrist pins. I measured the bores quickly and they seemed correct. I will know more when I start to assemble the engine.
The only thing I would suggest is that if you are a perfectionist like I am, do your cleaning locally before you send them the parts as that is one area we felt was weak. The heads we got back are clean. Don't get me wrong, the items were clean, just not spotless.
At this time the engine is not back together and I have not disassembled their work to blueprint the engine. From what I have seen handling the items, checking cam gear lash, etc, the only issues we had were we changed cams for a different grind and the case needed additional cleaning, I will post back once I check the heads over but having talked with them about the process and I am confident that they did an adequate job. We personally drove from Sacramento to LA (500 miles each way) to interview them before giving them the job. We had them balance the rods. They balanced both the big and little ends seperately so that is a clue. I insepected the score marks from the dial indicator that are left when the rods are resized. Those go all the way around and that is a good sign. I lack the equipment to double check their work on the big end. I will know if the small end is right when I fit the wrist pins. I measured the bores quickly and they seemed correct. I will know more when I start to assemble the engine.
The only thing I would suggest is that if you are a perfectionist like I am, do your cleaning locally before you send them the parts as that is one area we felt was weak. The heads we got back are clean. Don't get me wrong, the items were clean, just not spotless.