Bill K. wrote: Wally wrote:Result was 113 hp at 5100 rpm, but tranny losses were taken a bit high (20%); at 15-18% loss power would be 108-110 fwhp
Nice numbers and pictures! The chart has been converted to flywheel hp using 20% trans loss when wheel hp is measured?
The RWHP was 93.7 so my conclusion was as stated above
How many runs did it take to dial in? What did you change? Do you have more plots showing effects?
It was basically one run. I had a pretty good advance map (imo) from the 2056cc I ran in the bug for a short time and been logging AFR and running closed loop last week, so I had the AFR dialled in pretty well also. The AFR at WOT did only take 2 or 3 runs on the street, as that part of the map is the most easy to dial in, especially if you don't have very much power (saftety and running out of 'runway' is much less
).
I did one other run with 2 degrees more advance (31 instead of 29 for the most part) and I dunno what happend, but we got 20 hp less over the whole rpm band
, except at 1500-1750 rpm, where a slight increase in torque was noticed...
That seemed almost a flaw or something, so I putted the original advance back and the previous numbers were back again. Can hardly believe that 2 degrees would make such a large difference.
The wild lambda values in the plot are weird too, as my own readings from the LM1 were almost dead steady 12.5 to 12.8 AFR all across the rpm band while doing a WOT run on the street (highway). recorded it on the log as well. Also the first run on the dyno when my LM1 log was still running (wideband attached to in-car LM1) showed this steady AFR of 12.5-12.8. I corrected it a bit up top so 12.8 would be more 12.5 and we got about 1 hp extra
The dyno is that accurate
So, difficult to say which lambda was reading correct. We switched connections on the plug from the 5-wire bosche sensor loom, so the same sensor was used, just a different processing in the dyno box I guess. I tend to believe my LM1 box over the dyno-cell box, but you never know. I will calibrate the sensor later this week again in clean air to rule that out (its been a while since the last calibration).
Also because cost-wise I only did a powerrun as you pay the dyno by the hour if you start mapping on the dyno and it adds up quick. A good idea if you can't map your car on the street, but with this ecu you can do most on the street while driving along
It would be interesting to know - assuming afr is steady and good all the way - where the dip at 3300 rpm comes from..?
Hope that answers your q?
