Installing a 2.1L WBX in a 1969 Type 1

[Joov]

Hi!
I just decided I can't wait any longer, it has to happen, I'm going watercooled. I've read a bit about custom built aircooled engines, but it just seems to unreliable and difficult to custom build a high preformance aircooled engine.

My car is a 1500 1969 Type 1 with some rebuilds (yes, it's a bastard).
Puma front end
Ragtop
Snowflake taillights
Ats 7" front, 9" rear
1600cc engine (not for long)
Alfa Romeo sports leather seats
Currently VW stock disc brakes, but will be changed to 136hp capable brakes from Kerscher, (BAKER2VA), and 19,05 mm brake cylinders on the rear drums

The engine I think I'll end up with is from a Type 2 T3/T25 '82-'90 (transporter) (correct me if I'm wrong), 2.1 L (2100 cc) (112 bhp) (Serial # DJ) 10:1 compression ratio, Digijet injection, only sold in European countries not requiring catalytic converter. (Thanks wikipedia)
A local vw-guru told me that using the stock clutch and flywheel from the transporter should work fine with some grinding of the T1 transmission, so I'll give that a try.
He also told me that a starter from a Saxomat (automatic clutch) beetle could be used with the stock flywheel from the transporter. Anyone have any experience with this?

[perrib]

That will be a nice car when it is done. I have similar plans for a T-1 Baja Bug for my wife. AC, PS and heat. Hot VW or VW Trends featured a water boxer Ghia back in the early 90s. ith all the added wieght performance won't be breathtaking but I have seen waterboxers with untouched engines with over 300,000 miles. Sad part is most of them through owner and dealer neglect only made it to 40-60 k about the same as an average Beetle engine/owner.

[fastback]

A local vw-guru told me that using the stock clutch and flywheel from the transporter should work fine with some grinding of the T1 transmission, so I'll give that a try.
He also told me that a starter from a Saxomat (automatic clutch) beetle could be used with the stock flywheel from the transporter. Anyone have any experience with this?

correct.

you also have to get a needle bearing inserted in the flywheel. to support the shorter input shaft of the tranny.
or swap the input shaft to a "type 4/WBX" length/styke one.

a later style throw out bearing (with the guide sleeve) for the clutch is recomended

[AMBROSIA]

I have done this conversion.
Have a look at the link below.

Iain.

[Joov]

Thnx, AMBROSIA, but wasn't your engine a subaru? I've seen your thread, nice project

[AMBROSIA]

Thnx, AMBROSIA, but wasn't your engine a subaru? I've seen your thread, nice project

No, started out as the plan but went wbx instead

[joop]

I bought a complete lowmilage subie 4x4 lagacy 2.0 to do the conversion, but after seeing all the wires hoses and deep sump, exhaust etc I dicided to give the car to my wife. She runs it for almost two years trouble free (subaru engines are GOOD).I do lots of VW rebuilds for others so I can't run a japanese engine in my own
A WBX filled wit the right coolant and oil wil last forever, In a beatle I would go for the TYP4 flywheel (210 or 215)
Then you can use the stock starter. Look for an old style waterpump with the thermostat also near cyl 4 then the installation is much easier.

Joop

[Joov]

Ok, I just got a good deal on an engine now, not quite sure about the exact type though, but I'll see when i pick it up this friday. wooo, can't wait!

[Joov]

Got the new engine in the garage today. It's a bit dirty, but technically it should be fine.

So to the next step.
The most tempting flywheel for me atm is a type 4 215mm (since I'm sticking with the stock T1 swing-axle transmission). A couple of questions:
- Who sells these flywheels?
- Can I use any parts of the 228mm transporter-clutch assembly (like maybe the pressure plate), or do I need a complete new clutch?

[buildabiggerboxer]

i would keep it simple. you dont need any fancy conversion stuff, use the 228 fly and clutch, all you have to do is make it fit, and fit the crank needle bearing into the fly'. use the stock T1 starter, nothing wrong with them, you dont need hi torque are any auto stuff, if the stocker wont swing it, its a weak one and needs replacement, or the usual voltage drop relay needs fitting, wont hurt to install one of those anyway. good luck and welcome to the world of wasser.

[Piledriver]

Making the 228 fit in a T1 trans is nontrivial, and requires a self supporting starter (automatic) at the very least---
the 228mm pressure plate will eat a std bug starter one way bearing instantly.
(The actual ring gear is in the same size/place on all the 12V T1>T4>WBX flywheels)
You can use the Vanagon/914 starter with a 1/2" spacer.

But---BTDT, it can be done with some effort.
From what I have seen, the 228 clutch will last almost forever in a light car with std usage.

It has also been suggested that if you have the flywheel machined back ~2mm (both pressure plate and friction surface of course) it makes life much easier.

Do consider just buying a rebuilt 210 T4 FW (setup for the T4 conversion---w/required bearing)
...or a new CrMo 200mm conversion T4 FW and a HD T1 PP, all the T1 clucth choices are there.
There are a few vendors that can set you up.

[AMBROSIA]

You won't look back

[Joov]

So, got a bit further with my project, and got my hands on a T4 215mm flywheel. But http://www.tunacan.net/t4/tech/flywheel.htm tells me that: "The pilot bearing should be positioned so that it's flush on the "clutch" side of the flywheel. The thickness at the flywheel is about 0.400" so the new pilot shaft bearing will stick out the backside and end up partially in the crankshaft..."
Is this true, that I need to remove an existing bearing? And is this on the crank? Do I need to split the engine case to remove this?

[joop]

With a special puller you can pull it out, but you can grind the wall of the bearing away on one side carefully and slide it out with a screwdriver (after peeling out the cadge) (put a rag around the seal)
I would resurface that fly otherwise you could end up with wobble.....

Joop

[buildabiggerboxer]

No need to risk damage to the bearing, just pack it with heavy grease and use an old mainshaft to hydraulic it out using a few hard clouts from a big tappet adjusting hammer, they come out looking brand new...