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to make an oxy boxer? The jacket can be cut down by hand, stock cams can be reground and stock lifters retained, the only thing that smells expensive to me is stud relocation, and even that could be done with a good enough drill press or mill at home, no? Waht am I missing?
I am toying with a big oxy for my baywindow, say 80x96. I want somethign that will still be going when parts dry up.

would help if some of the big cyl head pushers could make some heads with WBX boltpattern !!
or undrilled, witk pre-marks for drilling both typ1 and WBX pattern
there's a market for shure.

What heads did you plan on using? Where are you getting 96mm bore with wasser crank spacing? How do you plan to cool this upright or pancake (hint: neither is a bolt on)?

I consider it quite expensive even if you like to do everything required. You would be surprised how many little things are required as nearly every build is a one off.

For moving a heavy bus around the challenge is keeping the heads cool, I would leave it water cooled.

It is an interesting hybrid, don't get me wrong.

well I haven't looked into this too hard i na long time. I was curios about oxy conversions a few years back and did a bit of reading, but have since forgotten most of the details. I am working on a big torquey motor in my head for the baywindow, only thigns that are set in stone are:

low end grunt
happy to cruise at 4500 rpm all day on the highway (gearing problems)
aircooled
reliable, if i need 2.4 l to make 120 hp reliably, so be it

with the price of type 4 strocker cranks, status of mains etc, I figured I would look at all my options again. I thought bug heads had the same spacing as a wbx? just wrong bolt patterns. oh is it the 96 mm cyls that fudged my idea? I have been spoiled with T4 stuff starting at 94 mm, gotta think baby, i mean bug, sytle engines again. but beign "stuck" to a 94mm bore to maintain reliabilty is not a major loss.

Stroker type-4 cranks otta be cheap compared to a stroker wasser. A cheap beetle one bolt crank could be used, but 228mm clutches use 5 bolt wheels.

I kind of figured a stroker wasser crank was on par with type 4s, but with a heartier case to go into. still don't understand the bug crank drop in thing, but it seems to include t4 mains which is the thign I want to get away from with the whole not existing bit.

2.1 is 76mm stock? I thought it was 73, so even stock aint too bad, this is really tempting, as it would probably be a real reilable motor. or just get the stocker ofset ground, I am sure DPR would do it for about the same price. I want a 50k motor in a bay window, that makes grunt.

hmm. the flat cooling may be harder than I am thinking though...

I can do the inserts in the block for the head studs. DPR on the crank Chevy 82mm = $350 no counterweights. Rocky

82 x 94 = 2276.// 82 x 90.5 = 2110 You can check out my web site at www.rockyjennings.com for more pictures on how the head studs are done. Rocky

Go to my web site to machine work then to engine work it will show you how we do the head studs inserts. Rocky

I have looked at your site befre, and am realizing just how much of "no idea" I had when I looked the first time. no idea waht I was seeing. Do you still sell those flycutters, and how much? also how much for stud relocation for T1 heads? Odds are by the tiem I get around to this motor you will be out of buisness anyways, but I love to plan. you can answer in pms for the prices and stuff of course.