Welcome 2jmotorsports your Ghia look like a very solid car.
Hot, humid air is less dense than cooler, drier air. This can allow a golf ball to fly through the air with greater ease, as there won't be as much resistance on the ball.
Thanks for the comments guys. FJC I have read that thread several times and is actually the reason I chose a Ghia for my aircooled autox project! After I get all the basic maintenance done I plan on following that for my build.
Time to post some progress. New wheel bearings, discs, calipers up front and new stainless hoses all around. New master cylinder currently getting buttoned up.
Stock buckets are in pretty horrible shape so I got some 914 buckets in ok shape. They should do for now and Ill recover them at a later time.
To go with a vintage-racer theme I found some Minilite-style Western Wheels in 4x130 and 14x5.5.
Last edited by 2jmotorsports on Tue Apr 05, 2011 8:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
That device on the carb is a vac controlled throttle decellerator, which was supposed to make sure all those nasty hydrocarbons were burned when you lifted your foot off the gas.
2J, it looks like you have original VW Sport Wheels on your Ghia. Don't throw those away. They were original issue on the Sport Bug (a styled Super) in 1973, and were available in 4.5 and 5.5 (if memory serves) widths.
We had the 5.5's on our IMSA/SCCA Super Bug back then.
Post a photo of your Minilite style wheels. You're looking good.
I had a '71 914/6 and recall that it had the same seats as shown in your photo, and the seats were sturdy, lightweight and comfortable. The drawback that I see with your application is that getting into the back seat / rear storage space of your Ghia will be a PITA since the 914 seats do not fold or tilt, and the OEM seat rack does not slide forward far enough to make any room. Also, check to see if vertical height of the 914 seats will be an issue (taking into account the height of the seat rack that you intend to use).
I recently completed a seat upgrade to my '71 Ghia and installed Scat Elite seats. They tilt forward, recline back and use a seat rack that mounts on the floor pan seat rails. They are very comfortable and supportive and have changed (in a positive way) our Ghia's ride feel.
FJC, my old wheels are 4.5's. I dont plan on getting rid of them anytime soon.
Greg, I hear ya on the reduced access to the rear compartment. I thought about possibly fabbing some kind of quick release mounting system that would still be sturdy and secure for the passenger seat to allow me to remove the seat and replace it easily, considering they are relatively light. I still have to figure it out though.
Guys, Im a bit stuck on bleeding the new master cylinder once its on the car.
I figured I could do it the way it is done in the Bug Me video without "bench bleeding". Replaced it and hooked up the hard lines and the new brake light switches and proceeded to bleed the ports directly from the MC. The rear one (going to the rear line) bubbled until nice clean fluid came out with no more bubbles. The front passenger side one (on the top) keeps bubbling air but it never seems to run out of air. If I move to the front driver side one, no bubbles or even fluid come out. I know for a fact the front driver side hard line is not clogged in any way either because if I bleed that caliper a mixture of mostly air and some fluid comes out. I also replaced the lower blue hoses as shown and the reservoir has plenty of fluid in it. I went ahead and tried bleeding the rest of the wheels anyway and have nice clean bubble free fluid coming from the rear and from the front passenger side caliper. Front driver side caliper is mostly air. Pedal is not firm at all. Also, whats that little brass colored hex screw over the rear port for anyway? Another bleed screw I didnt try?
The set screw holds in the master cylinder's piston. You'd remove this if you were rebuilding it and needed to withdraw the piston.
For air to get out, it has to get in somewhere. The trouble is apparently in the front circuit, and Mother Nature has created the air bubble so that it exits the passenger side line.
I'd suspect the forward pastic snap-in fluid entry fitting first. Pop it and its grommet out, wipe it clean, and push it back in, rotating it a little to make a good seal. Then rebleed.
My reservoir had crap plugging up the hole for the hose leading to the front circuit. The hard line was clogged too. After I removed the hard lines and reservoir, cleaned them out, and blew compressed air through them, then the bleed went smoothly. The pedal feels nice and firm now. Its nice to be able to see through the reservoir too. =D
My new calipers hit the wheels ever so slightly so I had to space them inwards by shimming each caliper with a pair of washers between the caliper and the steering knuckle.
Last edited by 2jmotorsports on Sat Apr 23, 2011 8:17 pm, edited 1 time in total.