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Engine Compartment Sheet Metal Fix



THE PROBLEM

The 90-degree fitting on the oil return hose (full flow system) interfers with the sheet metal behind the pulley, requiring cutting a hole for it, forming a dent in it with a ball peen hammer, or just leaving the tin off.



THE FIX

Replace the factory tin with a simple flat sheet of aluminum cut to fit. Here's the one we use on our 1965 PanAm Ghia. It's strictly a hardware store fabrication, with edging trim holding the sheet metal edges down. In this case, we have screws threated into nut rivets.



It can be improved. The contour fit around the pulley can be tighter, for instance. And a slightly longer dipstick handle wouldn't hurt.

FJC

I suspect by leaving the tin parts off that heat rising into the engine compartment would not be good. Just how bad is it to leave the tin parts off.

http://images.thesamba.com/vw/gallery/pix/729585.jpg

That is how I did it. Easy. One simple trim (less than 1^2inch) and then run stock tin. This is actually a baja engine, but the tin trim applies to a sealed engine compartment.

Do most hardware stores have nut rivets? I'm going to need a few on the Challenge Ghia and I was dreading the cost of Dzus fasteners.

Later,
Bruce

Hi Bruce,

I got mine from Harbor Freight, the Chinese tool place.

It's similiar to a pop riveter, but instead inserts and anchors aluminum nuts in the sheet metal. Very handy.

FJC

Terrific suggestions. I am planning an engine rebuild, thought about the full flow tin clearance problem, but have not gotten far enough to develop the solution! TaDa!

FJ, as I remember looking though the Fed standards books for AN style fittings (they are not all in the AN standards but some are in ANDs, MS, and NAS standards (ignoring the company that calls itself AN) that that there are through-bulkhead fittings should be available… if you want them (you can also do a search and find them).

You also might want to get familiar with a bead roller to stiffen up that long expanse of flat sheet metal. HF currently has a bead roller with several tools on sale that clamps in a vicehttp://www.harborfreight.com/18-inch-sheet-met ... 34104.html (currently on sale in the home mail 24 page circular for $169.99, normally $199.99). It will give you beads, flanges and even cut flat stock in what ever shape you want. A nice bead or two along with a stiffening flange will keep flat stock from flapping in the breeze and look cool ta-boot.

Lee

I you replace the AN 90* with a "street" 90* you can use the stock tin with a little clearancing.

That's what i've done.

Hi Lee, Glenn;

Yes, a bead roller would make a much better plate. What I've shown above is just a field expedient.

I'm aware there are less invasive fittings. I've used the brass 90-degree fittings, ground to rotate past the case bosses (with even some minor air grinder case boss clearancing), and one instance of an ugly modified but small water pipe 90! I've gotten the sheet metal tin cut and modification to a minimum.

My main reason behind this single deck plate modification isn't based just off the need for a small tin relief cut, but a cleaner appearance.

I can't take credit for this idea. I saw it on a 912 at a race, and admired how it seemed to reduce clutter in the engine compartment. I questioned the 912 owner about the practicality of the modification, effect on engine cooling, etc. He had no complaints.

For a race car, I think this is a good idea. For a street car, maybe not in the long run.

FJC

hey frank do you kn ow anybody that makes a fiberglass door for the ghia?

would like to have some for the racecar

ron

Hi Ron,

I know of no one who does fiberglass doors or engine lids for the Ghia.

This is a product whose time is ripe.

FJC

Some one either makes or has made them in the past. I have seen several drag Ghias with front end, doors , and engine lid all made of fiberglass and looked like pretty decent quality as well. Maybe a want ad on the Samba would produce some results ?

Some merged collectors also foul on the rear tin near the plunge toward the pulley on eitherside - near the fresh-air hose holes.

Here are a few clearanced tins we've got:







Bus/Type III hangers foul on the full-flow at the pump and require special fittings and massaging as well: