Oil Filter/pump Warning.

[Jim Ed]

I used to have a filter/pump on my stock 1600cc T-1 engine.
I hate to use one again. One time the filter imploded.
The metal casing looked like it had been squished. I had bought a Fram filter. The box it was in looked very old.
I suspected the filter fell apart which caused the great suction to implode the filter casing.
This resulted in a lot of oil on the drive.
Maybe if I had used a better quality and newer oil filter that would not have happened.
A filter/pump also acts like an oil heater. The hot air coming from under the engine heats up the oil filter casing which in turn heats the oil. This is not good for hot weather.

I was using this oil filter/pump with 15W40 oil.

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=195

Maxi Pump 2 - Filters 100% of your oil all of the time. The Maxi 2 guarantees total filtration of all engine oil before it reaches the bearings. The added volume of the Maxi 2 will increase engine life by lowering engine temperature and pumping only 100% filtered oil to the bearings. The Maxi 2 features a die cast aluminum alloy pump housing pre-set to racing specs. The 9 tooth gears and special 'pressure chamber' design provide full range oil performance that only a Maxi Pump can supply. The spin-on oil filter can be changed in just minutes. Just unscrew the old unit and spin on a new filter. All oil is under the engine and cleanup is kept to a minimum. Check your application carefully before ordering. Two models of the are available, to fit all upright Sedan engines to 1975 and Vans to 1967. Excluding auto stick shaft models. Will not fit with Merged Headers.

It was a cool, 45F or so, November morning when it happened.

[Bugfuel]

Where would SUCTION come frrom, on the filter side of the pump, that only ever sees pressure? There is no suction or vacuum at the filter. Only positive pressure. Does this setup have a high pressure bypass built in?

[Bruce2]

A filter/pump also acts like an oil heater. The hot air coming from under the engine heats up the oil filter casing which in turn heats the oil.

You sure about that? How do you know the air coming off the cylinders is higher than your oil temp?

What if the air was less than your oil temp? Then that air would cool the oil.

Unless you've actually measured the air temp off the cylinders, you're just guessing.

[Jim Ed]

Where would SUCTION come frrom, on the filter side of the pump, that only ever sees pressure? There is no suction or vacuum at the filter. Only positive pressure. Does this setup have a high pressure bypass built in?

The filter collapsed and caused the pressure build up to cause the filter casing to be squished.
Probably caused by the old deteriorated filter and the cold thick 15W40 oil in cold weather.
There was a puddle of oil on the drive.

[Jim Ed]

A filter/pump also acts like an oil heater. The hot air coming from under the engine heats up the oil filter casing which in turn heats the oil.

You sure about that? How do you know the air coming off the cylinders is higher than your oil temp?

What if the air was less than your oil temp? Then that air would cool the oil.

Unless you've actually measured the air temp off the cylinders, you're just guessing.

Using deck lid stand offs brought the oil temp down.

When I went back to a stock type of oil pump, 26 mm gears, the oil temp went down.

[Jim Ed]

A filter/pump also acts like an oil heater. The hot air coming from under the engine heats up the oil filter casing which in turn heats the oil.

You sure about that? How do you know the air coming off the cylinders is higher than your oil temp?

What if the air was less than your oil temp? Then that air would cool the oil.

Unless you've actually measured the air temp off the cylinders, you're just guessing.

http://groups.google.com/group/rec.auto ... 80b76266a6

John Connolly wrote Oct 15 1997, 2:00 am
I am against the use of the filter/pumps. However, they do NOT cause
the oil coolers to be blown out. Most of the time, this is cause by
using too heavy an oil for the temp (no, you are not supposed to use
straight 30 in COLD weather), or replacing the bypass springs with
non-factory units.

The problem with them is the oil passages are too small for good flow,
and they heat up the oil a LOT since the filter is placed close to the
exhaust AND the hot air exiting the #3 & 4 side.

Stick with true full flow filtration, if you really want a filter.

John

[Bruce2]

A filter/pump also acts like an oil heater. The hot air coming from under the engine heats up the oil filter casing which in turn heats the oil.

You sure about that? How do you know the air coming off the cylinders is higher than your oil temp?

What if the air was less than your oil temp? Then that air would cool the oil.

Unless you've actually measured the air temp off the cylinders, you're just guessing.

....and they heat up the oil a LOT since the filter is placed close to the
exhaust AND the hot air exiting the #3 & 4 side.

Unless you've actually measured the air temp off the cylinders, you're just guessing.

The stock thermostat opens between 65º and 70ºC. That's 149ºF and 158ºF. If the oil temp is above that, the oil in the filter will be cooled by the "hot" air coming off the cylinders.

What is the temp of the air coming off the cylinders?

[Bruce2]

Where would SUCTION come frrom, on the filter side of the pump, that only ever sees pressure? There is no suction or vacuum at the filter. Only positive pressure. Does this setup have a high pressure bypass built in?

The filter collapsed and caused the pressure build up to cause the filter casing to be squished.
Probably caused by the old deteriorated filter and the cold thick 15W40 oil in cold weather.
There was a puddle of oil on the drive.

You're not understanding basic physics here. In order for a filter to collapse, there must be a vacuum present. There is only pressure. Maybe excess pressure damaged the casing, making you think it collapsed?

[Jim Ed]

Where would SUCTION come frrom, on the filter side of the pump, that only ever sees pressure? There is no suction or vacuum at the filter. Only positive pressure. Does this setup have a high pressure bypass built in?

The filter collapsed and caused the pressure build up to cause the filter casing to be squished.
Probably caused by the old deteriorated filter and the cold thick 15W40 oil in cold weather.
There was a puddle of oil on the drive.

You're not understanding basic physics here. In order for a filter to collapse, there must be a vacuum present. There is only pressure. Maybe excess pressure damaged the casing, making you think it collapsed?

By the looks of the box, yellowing, the filter must have been over 10 years old.
I can not explain why the casing imploded and there was a puddle of oil on the drive.

[Bugfuel]

that sure is weird. no signs of external impact, like something hitting the filter? Have any pictures?

For what it's worth, I have my filter hanging off a bracket that hooks to the exhaust studs on #4 cylinder, it pushes the filter and bracket out to the left side, away from the exhaust and exiting hot air flow from the cylinders. I'll try to find a picture. You can buy these brackets but I made my own out of heavy aluminum stock. Previously I mounted the filter under the rear fender like most people. Now I can get away with shorter hoses. This is a full flow setup.

Now on filter location... isn't the filter in direct hot air flow from #3 and #4 cylinders on a type 4 engine? Just checked one of my old pics and sure enough... direct hit:

[ovion21]

Hello guys,

I just want to buy a new filter pump. I am just frustrated with the filter pump that I have. I have just checked it by myself at
least more than 5 times, everything is fine but it is making a bad sound. What to do now? Please help me!!!

Thanks

[Jim Ed]

Is it making a knocking sound. If so, then it might be time to re-build the engine. Maybe something is loose on the outside of the engine making a knocking sound.

[ainokea]

Truth be told, a lot of aftermarket parts are made in China, Some are good some are trash. In 2007 I built my 1956cc engine with a C/W chromoly 76mm crank, 5.4 chromoly rods, 90.5 P&c's, and an oil pump/ filter combo. All from C.B. Performance. I've got 40K on the clock without a problem of any sort. However, I use only the Mann 561 oil filter and change my Kendall 40 weight oil at 500, to 800 miles, that's just a personal preference and not mandatory at all. Here in Honolulu 40 weight oil is good for our all year temps. But when I lived in Seattle, I did use a C.B. oil pump / filter on my 1835cc engine in my 63 VW van. When there was snow on the ground, 30 weight oil, summer called for 40 weight as we did take drives to Sacramento California and back to Seattle, almost 2,000 trouble free miles. If you get a bad part, expect failure somewhere down the road