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Hello all.
I parted a 411 with a bn2 gas heater in the trunk (factory option in canada). I would like to put it in my 412 but dont have any of the ducting to guess by nor do I remember how it went so before I go cutting holes to run (made up) ducting does anyone have any pictures of a bn2 in a type 4? I seem to remember seeing some factory lit with pics but cannot seem to find it again
If anyone could help that would be great!

Gonna do the same. Anyone???

Sorry for the delay. This damn new job is sucking up my play time .
Let me look in my articles archive tonight. Ray

bradey bunch wrote:Hello all.
I parted a 411 with a bn2 gas heater in the trunk (factory option in canada). I would like to put it in my 412 but dont have any of the ducting to guess by nor do I remember how it went so before I go cutting holes to run (made up) ducting does anyone have any pictures of a bn2 in a type 4? I seem to remember seeing some factory lit with pics but cannot seem to find it again
If anyone could help that would be great!

Perhaps this will provide some ideas...
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=134199

Found this thread, its got pics of the aux heater I will PM him to see if he can post more pics here.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=515267

I hardly log on here but for some reason I did and saw this thread. That car is being parted along with the heater/ducting. I would be happy to take more pictures of it this weekend and post them, heater specific, and anything else anyone wants to see. I have extra ducting in the parts stash that came with the car and I will see if it matches up with what is installed. I want to see what I don't need go to people who can use it.

I have pics to post now but the site doesn't like their size and I don't have the time right now to re-size them.

Would love pictures! Also pm'd you

Pictures posted in my other thread.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=515267

I did find some other ducting in the trunk but nothing matched up to what was on the BN-2 currently installed even though one duct elbow had a type 4 part number on it.

Well, removing this heater is proving to be a bit of a job. This was not installed at the dealer as an accessory there. It was all done at the factory. All ducting, venting and exhaust holes through the firewall or left fender are all factory punched and painted along with welded heater "attachment points" for lack of a better word. I almost have the job done except for pulling the dash switch and wiring. I was lucky enough to be able to compare this '71 side by side with my '72 this last weekend. I should have had my camera but I will next time and will be posting pics for anyone interested.

What's the easiest way to get a dash switch removed on these things?

That sounds great, pics of mounting etc would be awesome.

I get the dash switches out by unscrewing the knob, and then using a pair of small needle nose or a screwdriver to fit in the slot in the aluminium screw. There are factory tools but you could make your own if that doesn't work.

Braden

I will have to try that. This switch is one of the gas heater/timer types that the knob pulls off, has a little bulb under it. To make the heater work you wind the switch and it ticks away while the heater works.

19super73 wrote:I will have to try that. This switch is one of the gas heater/timer types that the knob pulls off, has a little bulb under it. To make the heater work you wind the switch and it ticks away while the heater works.

Um....not quite. If the car is turned off....Pull the left hand heater lever up....then wind up the clock mechanism. This is simply to pre-heat the car for 10 minutes without starting the engine up and leaving it running. It is the only way to run the heater while the engine is not running.

When the engine is running....leave the push in/clockwork timer alone and simply turn the knob again...after you pull the left hand heater lever straight up.

The clockwork timer has nothing to do with normal running of the heater. If this is the only way your heater will run...with the timer engaged.....then one of your main power links to either the switch unit or the quad relay...is attached to switched power instead of unswitched power. Ray