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How many miles would one of these be good for, (any at all)?
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/pa ... 3593=36815
I was thinking about putting one of these on and rebuilding the original.
I am kinda lost on your rebuild procedures.
Is it all put together in one spot somewhere.
I do not have a lathe and mill, I do have a big press.
Why do you have to do that dremel cutting--wont they just press out?

Is this a brass idle arm bush?
http://www.carpartsdiscount.com/auto/pa ... ?3594=1169
If not do you have to make them.

Dose anyone sell strut mounts I have a new set of struts I picked up a few years back might as well use them.
Also the ball joints seem fine--I'll put some grease zerts in them. Maybe I'll just change them.

Car is totally drivable but I guess I should get around to doing this stuff.
The only problem is play in the steering it has no shake or shimmy.
Is the steering box unique to the 412?
This car has kinda Sat now for few years under a tarp in the barn.
One of the hoses on fuel pump split and I parked it.
I am thinking about driving it sum it has collector plates.

Bronze bushing

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P ... C-C10-4021

What year is your car? This is the strut mount used on the 74 cars, and can be adapted to the earlier cars with a drill.

http://www.cip1.ca/ProductDetails.asp?P ... C-C10-4023

I put solid mounts in my car, if I were to go that route again I would use these: http://www.eurosportacc.com/camber_cast ... plates.htm

Guaranteed no shimmy with solid mounts Ride quality may suffer a bit.

By the way, this is the thread you want:


http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 2&t=123644

Originally a new centerlink...NOS...like in that picture at yopur link would be good for about 50-70 K mils in areas with low humidity. About 30-50K miles in places with high humidity. This does not mean they fail....because they don't break and fall off. Its not like a tie rod that can come out of the socket. They fail because the nylon gets sloppy and the car wanders and shimkies and tears up other parts...but people just drive that way....which is why most people do not know that this was originally a problem. However those links have been laying on shelves for 30 years. No telling how long they will last.

But yes.....for that price...install and rebuild your old one.

You do not need a mill or a lathe. Use a dremel because it is easy, cheap and works perfectly as well as anything else. My center links ran me roughly $30 in parts to rebuild. You do not need a solid milled bushing in the centerlink. You can use stacks of bronze shims and collared bushings found at any hardware store. If you need pictures of the parts I put in mine let me know.

Yes the steering box is unique to the 411/412. No its rarely a steering box problem. Its almost always a combination of the idler arm (get the bronze one) and the center link. While the steering box is out...look for my posts on how to pack it with sysnthetic grease, replace the unobtanium seal and adjusting. If you cannot find it....let me know.
Ray

It is a 74
I have found the steering box thread
I dose not shimmy, but front end responds only to about 3-5 degrees 0f steering wheel travel.

"You can use stacks of bronze shims and collared bushings"
Please send pics stevehendo34@gmail.com

It is going back to red this summer someone made her orange

Ray or anyone else who has pictures of the parts to rebuild the center link could you please send them to reluctantartist1@gmail.com

Thanks

Here's the rebuild thread with lots of pictures:
http://www.shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic ... 2&t=123644