1971 Camper project

[Theo]

I just purchase this Bus from a neighbor. I think I did well for $1700. What do you think?

Hasn't run in ten years. Single port motor has knock with 40 miles after rebuild so owner parked it. Doesn't run.

Very little rust. Seems tight. Brakes work. Interior is dirty with a lot of little issues. Has 17 gallon water tank. 120V hookup. 12V -120V fridge (may work).

I plan on restoring it for the family to use for camping. Kids promised to help with restoration!

Would you guys like me to post as we go?

[Theo]

More picts.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Nice start!

Lee

[Piledriver]

Score!

[Marc]

Looks sound. `71 is one of my favorite years for buses. The fixed camper roof adds wind resistance and impacts stability when sidewinds are encountered, but many think it's a good tradeoff compared to the Westy pop-ups with all their seal and canvas issues.
The singleport should move it along if you aren't in a hurry or climbing mountains (and keep the tire diameter close to stock) - at least they used an AutoStick intake so the power brakes have vacuum. If it needs pistons/cylinders this'd be a prime candidate for the AA 88mm jugs that slip into an unmodified case (heads need to be opened up to "92" size). What's the case ID, anyway? Is it a true 3-point case or did they use a "Mickey Mount" to attach the moustache bar to a Beetle case?
`71/`72 brakes are obsolescent. You can still find some parts for them (sometimes) but if they need anything more than pads or flexhoses you'll be ahead in the long run to update to `73 calipers & rotors, etc.

[Theo]

So have a look. I was told it was a 71. What year is it? For purchasing brakes for example?

10/12/1968 (MM/DD/YYYY) ?

Thanks.

[Marc]

It was built in October of 1970 (week 43, day 5, to be specific).
Third digit of the VIN is 1, confirming that it's a `71 model-year. `71s had 1600DP engines, not SP, but a SP is arguably a better choice for this heavy of a vehicle. You give up a few HP at the top but the low-end torque is better.

[Piledriver]

SP are also far less prone to cracked heads.

[Marc]

Here's all the info that I can get from the M-code plate. Since it's an aftermarket camper conversion none of that equipment is mentioned, this is how it left the VW factory. It's noteworthy that while Westfalia campers have an extra sheet of steel across the midsection underneath (to help replace the stiffness lost when the roof was lopped off), this was originally a 7-seater Microbus without that feature.

Model: Type 2 (T2) mod. 221(1) :
- Microbus
- 7 seater (arrangement 2-2-3)
- Sliding door right
- LHD

Chassis number: 2212068260

Serial number: 068 260

Modelyear: 1971

Planned production date: Friday, 23 October 1970

Number for production planning
(temporary serial number): 7692

Type of engine: Type 1 (AE) - 1584cc, 37 kw (50 bhp DIN)

Type of transmission: Manual 4-speed gearbox

Paint color
Color upper part: L90D Pastel White

Color lower part: L31H Chianti Red

Interior color (doorpanels and seats): 52 - Alabaster (grey) Leatherette

Destination: USA, Los Angeles



M-codes:

042 = Tires approved by research and development department and free from import duty and costs

508 = With vent wing in passenger compartment opposite sliding door

A01 = Specifications for the USA
Collection of M-Codes: M 020/026/089/102/206/506/507/511/521/524/525 (1971-1972)

020 = Speedometer and odometer in Miles

026 = With activated carbon container for absorbing fuel vapour

089 = Laminated windscreen (1969-1979)

102 = Rear-window defogger

206 = Inner rear-view mirror, anti-dazzle

506 = With brake servo and dual circuit brake warning light (LHD)

507 = Vent wings in cab doors

511 = Padded instrument panel (LHD only)

521 = With additional chrome trim and sun visor with mirror

524 = Sealed beam headlamps, dual circuit brake control, back-up light and side marker reflectors (LHD) with buzzer for ignition-starter swit

525 = Three-point safety belts front, left and right and lap belts in passenger compartment

[Ol'fogasaurus]

Whew, pooped me out just reading all that. Very impressive report Marc.

Like I said Theo, you have what looks like a very impressive start. I went on Craigs list locally and with one or two exceptions your rig is well above what is up for sale around here.

The next thing to do it get started. On your Marc,... get set, .... (and don't go so fast you miss something)

Lee

[Theo]

Wow, thanks for all the info Mark. I've started ordering parts already: Door handle, brake fluid reservoir, tow hitch and a tow bar.

I will report back the motor number. It has the correct 3 point mount. I'm not sure what I'm going to put in for power. I would like to tow my Baja with it. I live in the mountains and start driving at 5000ft altitude.

I will likely build a motor for it.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

... I would like to tow my Baja with it. I live in the mountains and start driving at 5000ft altitude.

I will likely build a motor for it.

Hmmm, tow..., 5000' elevation... have you looked into one of these yet http://www.jonkaaseracingengines.com/pr ... -hemi.html.

[Marc]

The reservoir in the cab or the one atop the master cylinder? That's one of the obsolescent parts I was talking about.

IMO you'd need at least a 2-liter ACVW in that thing before even considering towing anything heavier than an aluminum boat. For the kind of power you'd want the stock transmission is unlikely to last either. Compromise and use a co-driver to pilot the baja uphill, only tow it coming down.

[Theo]

The one in the Cab is cracked. I haven't gotten much past that. Where is the best place to source new '74 and up brakes? Do I need fronts, rears and MC?

Our family has owned many buses and have extensive towing experience with them. Our best tow rig bus was set up with a V6 (still have that one). I think 2 ltr + is a good idea. I was pondering using my 1680cc FI/Turbo motor that is in my race car. It would be perfect I think. Or a 69x94 build. I may be able to score a 78mm crank. Part of me wants to go suby.

Most of our old school bus motors were stock with thick wall 88 machine in cyl, header exhaust and kads. Good combo for a bus.

The reservoir in the cab or the one atop the master cylinder? That's one of the obsolescent parts I was talking about.

IMO you'd need at least a 2-liter ACVW in that thing before even considering towing anything heavier than an aluminum boat. For the kind of power you'd want the stock transmission is unlikely to last either. Compromise and use a co-driver to pilot the baja uphill, only tow it coming down.

[Marc]

A stroker would be the best choice. My son had a 1995 (88x82, with stock rods) in his `73 bus and it had no problem flat-towing his race bug - even ended up putting taller tires on it 'cause it had so much grunt there was no need to rev it. Problem there is that there are no longer any off-the-shelf "B" pistons in 88mm bore, and going beyond 74mm with "A" pistons brings on some problems. IMO 94s are too thin for a bus (they're only .006" thicker than slip-in 87s). AA also makes some thickwall 92s which fit the same case & head registers as 94s, or you can turn down the skirts so they'll fit a case cut for "classic" 92s/late 90.5s. With a 78mm stroke you'd have 2074cc (2085 if it's actually 78.4mm) ...that should do the job.

There's really no need to change the rear brakes, but the drums and backing plates are the same from `71-`79 so if you had the right hardware you could update them if desired - the later wheel cylinders are typically cheaper, too.
To run the `73-`79 front calipers/rotors you need later spindles. The beams are essentially the same from balljoint to balljoint so it's a straightforward swap. The ideal time to change them would be if you're replacing ball joints; or keep an eye out for a latemodel beam, you could either swap the whole thing or just use the control arms/balljoints, spindles and brakes. There are two sizes of power brake booster, the larger mid`74-up one is a little easier to find.

http://www.bus-boys.com/