Waterboxer engine

[Passatman]

Good day All,

I have a waterboxer engine that I am trying to pull. I have tried an old trick of using 50% brake fluid and 50% transmission oil socked for 2 days, however I am looking at the 4 bolts that are in the water jacket that hold the block together and I am wondering if I will have to use an impact wrench to free those bolts.

Also which nuts did you guys use to double nut the head studs.

[Passatman]

Ok found my answer to the last question i had asked about the nuts used for double nutting. It turns out you can use type4 cylinder head nuts they have the right thread and pitch depth as the T5 engine.

Tried to move the cylinder head studs what a pain in the ass, looks like i may have to try a propane torch which i really didn't want to do. I will let the home brew penetrant settle for another day and try again before going to the torch.

[Piledriver]

I have heard of folks having them removed via EDM, although that would probably cost more than another block.

A little heat goes a long way, and aluminum expands a LOT more than steel.

[Passatman]

Well pile only if i can get those 4 cap nuts in the case free.

[Piledriver]

They should have been spooged with RTV on assembly, tap them with the gun, probably spin right off.

The head studs are more of a concern, are you taking them out due to heavy corrosion or just because?

[Passatman]

Well i am removing the studs because i would feel better about the engine if new ones were in place.

[Passatman]

Yesterday while I was messing with the waterboxer engine I pulled one of the connecting rods off the crank the journal seemed ok ( need to measure these with my starett mic ). After cleaning the rod and torqueing it to 22 ft/lbs I use my snap gauge and digital vernier caliper to assist with measuring the diameter, that big end reading came out to 2.275 inch, that I think is stock measurement for the waterboxer big end, also I am looking at the bolts in the rod and I think these are the ridged ones that can be reused.

[Passatman]

They should have been spooged with RTV on assembly, tap them with the gun, probably spin right off.

Pile where I am from you can count the professional builders on one hand and sometimes they go astray and do crap that's why I am going to build all 3 ( T1, T4 and T5 ) of my engines myself, many have done it before.

[fastback]

Don't be afraid to heat the case. soak the studs/threads with penetrating oil , heat up the case and give the studs a few solid hits with tha hammer and the will come out.
the studs for the cyl heads uses std pitch Metric M10 nuts

[Passatman]

Hey fastback haven't heard anything from you in awhile. Ah! yes it seems like I will have to use heat on the studs but I was doing some research on the matter and it was said that a propane torch should be used.

By the way fast back did you ever get a new block for your 2.4ltr waterboxer.

[fastback]

hey.
wbx cases are no problem. i have 30+ available
been collecting some years.

i have started collecting partsf or a ~2.6L
takes a while ...$$$$

[Passatman]

What size crank will you use and what size bore.

[fastback]

i have bought a 84mm stroke crank, and will try to fit 100mm cyl. maybe ill reduce to 98/99mm

[Passatman]

Was that 84mm crank a scat crank, been told that 82mm is the biggest size you can go on stroking a waterboxer crank without getting into trouble.

[fastback]

Dpr