Oil Change

[Bonemaro]

What oil would you recommend for the 73 Ghia?

[FJCamper]

Hi Bonemaro,

Most modern motor oils are dangerous to our air-cooled engines. The ZDDP additives that allow the lifter-to-cam contact surfaces to survive have been removed or diminished in them as pollutants.

Valvoline VR-1 racing oil (technically being a "racing" and not street oil) has a good amount of ZDDP in it. Also, as opposed to true racing oils, VR-1 has anti-rust additives in it that make it usable for street use where we keep oil in the engine for long periods of time. Specially formulated racing oils are drained between races.

You might suppose that all oil just by itself is rust preventative, but it actually takes some good additives to make that true.

I'm sure other posters here have oil suggestions. I'd use 10w30 or maybe 10w40 under really hot conditions.

FJC

[Bonemaro]

Thanks FJ. I feel like I need to take everything I know about these modern cars I've built and toss it out the window when it comes to the ACVW.

[helowrench]

I use the diesel rated oils.
Rotella synthetic 10/30 & 10/40 depending upon season

[mountainkowboy]

Swepco Oil also makes an oil that is rated for our older pushrod engines.

[Jim Ed]

I have a 1973 Beetle.
I use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil 20W-50 in all but, cold weather. I get it at Auto Zone.
I also use Valvoline VR-1 racing oil 10W-30 in cold weather. I get it at jeggs.com
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stores/s ... Term=VV205
Carquest is supposed to carry it too.

I have also used Brad Penn 10W-30 but I think it leaks a little more than the VR1 since, it is a semi-synthetic.

I think a thick oil in cold weather blows the oil cooler.

[juki48]

with the reduction of ZDDP in modern oils many switched to diesel engine oils. now those are having their zddp reduced. I have switched to brad penn. I run the straight 30wt in a stock 1600 and I run the 5W30 in my 2276 turbo. I put a 30mm pump in before I knew not to and need to 5w30 to reduce cold oil pressure. the stock vw engine was designed for 30wt at normal temps.

[Bonemaro]

A buddy of mine at AMSOIL recommended their Z-ROD synthetic like.

Their site says, "AMSOIL Z-ROD™ Synthetic Motor Oil is specially engineered for classic and high-performance vehicles. A high-zinc formulation to prevent wear on flat-tappet camshafts and other critical engine components, along with a proprietary blend of rust and corrosion inhibitors for added protection during long-term storage."

I'm just no-so-sure a synthetic oil would be wisest for these engine do to leakage, even though I am building an engine completely from a new case.

[juki48]

the story I heard was synthetic oils are not as good at heat transfer. this is good for water cooled engines, lowering oil temps, but bad for air cooled engines that rely on oil cooling to keep cool.

[Bonemaro]

...and that too, juki. I think I'm going to run with VR-1.

[helowrench]

the story I heard was synthetic oils are not as good at heat transfer. this is good for water cooled engines, lowering oil temps, but bad for air cooled engines that rely on oil cooling to keep cool.

I have been running synthetics and non synthetics in Dallas temps as a daily driver.
I do not have temp measuring equipment, but have noticed no differences in 10 years of 12,000 miles each year.
piledriver also runs his as a daily in the same area, and he may have temp gauges installed.

No extra leaks either.

[Bonemaro]

The guy at AMSOIL just told me synthetic transfers heat better.

[Piledriver]

the story I heard was synthetic oils are not as good at heat transfer. this is good for water cooled engines, lowering oil temps, but bad for air cooled engines that rely on oil cooling to keep cool.

Old wives tale, has been debunked numerous times over decades.
A good synthetic will tolerate much higher oil temps before breaking down, but that is a feature.
It may also reduce friction, which will reduce oil temps, which may be the root cause of the auld wives tale.
This is also a feature.

I ran VR-1 10W-30 for breakin and have run Shell Rotella T(6) 5w40 since (and for years)
It is G3 based synthetic and is chemically identical to dino oil, as it is made from dino oil.
G4/G5 synthetics like Mobil1 may still be and Amsoil is will take even more heat abuse to the base stock.

The T6 still has ~1400 PPM phos/zinc, + boron.

The white jug Rotella 15W40 is ~1100 ppm which would probably be fine for a stocker but i'd be leery of that ZDDP level with dual springs etc.

There is a t5 synthetic blend as well have not researched it.

There is also a fully synthetic VR1 oil @~$11/quart, good deal when on sale assuming you don't use oil.

Mobil1 turbo Diesel Truck (AKA Delvac1) is also a good choice and reasonably priced for a real G4/G5 synthetic for just a little more $$ than the G3 Rotella T6... although i run the latter as it has the best wear results on the TDiclub(?) forums.

[Ol'fogasaurus]

I have used Pennzoil racing oil for years with no problems so I have been trying to find out what the ZDDP levels were in them. I ran into this supposedly written by a Shell of Canada employee: "... Shell bought pennzoil [sic] as well as Quaker state a few years ago. Since then Shell canada [sic] was bought out by Royal Dutch Shell which also owns Shell Oil in the US...". Doing some searching it is looking like Pennzoil is at the government required levels of 1000 ppm rather than the 1200 ppm to 1400 ppm recommended for flat tappet engines.

It looks like I have to find something to use that I don't have a head problem with from them "good Ol' days" and I do have some head problems with some products .

Lee

[dragvw2180]

I have been using Brad Penn with good results on my former Pro Outlaw engine that I now have in my street car , this is a 366 rwhp that has been severely abused. On my last oil change and valve adjustment everything looked like new and did not need any adjustment , that says alot. I also would use Joe Gibbs or the Amsoil , all three are designed for flat tappet cams and have high zinc content. Mike McCarthy