Camshaft

[Mitchell]

I will be replacing the camshaft in a 1600 cc motor I am building and would like to know if adding a 100 or a 110 camshaft would improve the performance of the otherwise stock motor enough to use one. I plan to keep the compression in the low to mid 7's. Everything else would be stock - dual port heads, 34 Pict-3 carb, stock crank and stock P&C's. The case is an AE.

Thanks,
Mitchell

[FJCamper]

Hi Mitchell,

The Engle 100 should work with your 7.x:1 compression. A better exhaust and dual carbs (Kads) working with the 100 would help wake it up as well.

Good luck.

FJC

[Marc]

I'd consider a Bugpack 4061 too. Similar effective duration, a tad more lift and still OK with the stock valvetrain.

[Mitchell]

Thanks for the information. I did forget to mention I will be using a non stock exhaust. This will be my first non-stock build. Normally I build stock, that avoids complications for me. I will be installing the motor in a '73 Karmann Ghia Conv. along with an autostick transmission and A/C. The plan for the future is to build a 1776 for the car. For the 1776 I will probably purchase a new case just to be on the safe side. I am not looking to race the car, I only want good low performance, good high end performance and reliability. The KG will be driven about 60 miles to work and back, round trip, in the Houston TX area. It will not be a daily driver, but hopefully used often.

As I had not thought about using dual carbs, is there a set of these that will work on the 1600 with a larger cam and then still be good for the 1776?

Thanks,
Mitchell

[Marc]

AutoSticks require a ported vacuum signal to the control solenoid, which it uses to sense load to modulate the vacuum bleedoff rate (hence the clutch reengagement rate). Without it, the clutch engages rapidly at all times, even when motoring along placidly in traffic; it's particularly harsh when you're in Reverse (parallel parking can become an embarrassing evolution). You can adjust the control to bleed off more slowly at all times, but that causes clutch slippage (and wear) when you are accelerating hard. Best to leave things near stock - and that includes the cam, keep it conservative like the W-100 or 4061. AutoSticks even use dedicated distributors with a curve intended to compliment the torque converter stall speed, another good reason to stay with the stock carburetor.
The internal clutch in the AutoStick trans is a puny thing (although outrageously expensive to replace) so you'll be wise to not push its limits. Are you aware of the "thickwall" slip-in 88 cylinders from AA? The heads still need to be flycut but the case requires no machine work, so it's nearly a stock build - but with ~6% more displacement, enough to make a noticeable improvement in performance yet not too big for the stock carb.

[Mitchell]

Marc thanks for the information. I was not aware of the 88's. You anticipated one of my future questions regarding a larger engine for an autostick. I know it would be easier for me to stay with the stock carb, so that is what I will do.

I still plan to build a 1776, but that will be for my '70 Beetle Conv, currently it has a 1600 cc motor. I will use the transmission from the '73 Ghia for the '70 Beetle. I was told that the engine RPM in fourth gear will be lower thus allowing me to drive over 60 mph without running the temps up to much.

Irene, I know you do not know her, wants the autostick in the Ghia.

Thanks,
Mitchell

[Marc]

So, you're converting the `Ghia from 4-speed to AutoStick? Yeccchh! OK, well, you'll need a `73-up trans and all of the bits from a donor car (Bug or `Ghia). The shift rod needs to be from a `73 or newer car, it's the shortest one ever made. AutoStick shiftrods are also offset slightly at the rear coupler so if you have to make one keep that in mind. A cryin' shame to whack up a `Ghia body for the plumbing IMO, does Irene really have a reason why she can't drive a stick or does she just think she couldn't? VWs are the easiest stick there is to drive, I even taught my sister-in-law (who should've received a bus pass rather than a driver's license from the state) how to drive stick when she got her `Ghia.

The final drive ratio in fourth gear is not all that different between the `69-`72 "AH" transaxles and the `73-up "AT" used in Beetles because the latter have a shorter 4th ratio - but if the `Ghia 4-speed is "AO" as it should be, you'll be 6% taller in all gears than the stock `70 Bug trans...and that's about as tall as I think is wise for a full-bodied Bug. You could just bolt the `70 nosecone on, but it's not right for the late mainshaft bearing - better IMO to leave the trans unmolested and use an aftermarket conversion mount (Bugpack offers a urethane one). The ground strap won't fit comfortably to the chassis with the urethane mount, but it's easy to relocate to the back...between one of the sideplate nuts and one of the rear mount bolts to the saddle works, or you can weld a stud to the framehorn like the latemodel cars came with. And I'm sure you're aware of the difference between the early and late clutch setup. If the release lever on the late trans is longer it'll make for a softer pedal, but with a new disk you might have a problem with it releasing fully unless you take the stop off of the pedal.

[Mitchell]

Thanks for the information. I know a lot of people do not like the autostick. I understand why, I have owned a few. None were a problem and I liked the one I had in a Super Beetle, I think it was a '71. After reading your post we may not be converting to an autostick. The one I have came out of a '71 Beetle, so if I need a '73 or newer transmission we will stay with the manual trans. Marc you just saved me a lot of time and frustration. Irene can drive a manual, she drives my Beetle, Alfa and Triumph Stag. She was just wanting something different and it would be easier in the traffic. Houston is very congested in the mornings and evenings.

So I guess all stays the same, except for the engine. Now I can put a 1776 in the Ghia and then one in the Beetle. I think for practice I will build the smaller engine with the 88's and a small cam. Maybe even go with the dual set up.

I am almost ready to paint the Ghia. I just repainted the passenger fenders and door on my Beetle. If you have a copy of the Feb 2013 HVW mag Irene is in the bug mail section in the Beetle, with a dent in the door.

Thanks,
Mitchell

[Marc]

With stock displacement/small heads the Kadrons are just a little too large for my liking and I prefer 34ICTs - but with 1679 or 1775cc you could go either way; I've run both back-to-back on a somewhat warmed-over 1775 and found little difference in performance - the Webers cost more initially but get a little better mileage and IMO are smoother and easier to live with in traffic. Be sure to eight-dowel the crank/flywheel; in my experience once you go past ~1650cc and add some carburetion it just gets too easy to rip them apart should you hammer on it. If the rest of the engine combo is right (I mean, a counterweighted crank and the cam & valvetrain to rev happily to ~6500, larger valves or at least ported intakes) a 1775 will make about 20 more HP with IDFs than it will with dual 1-bbls...and probably about 25% worse fuel economy, mostly cuz you'll be looking for opportunities to use it


viewtopic.php?f=18&t=144703&hilit=EMPI

[Mitchell]

Marc thanks for the input. For now I will either build the current motor stock or use the mild cam with the 88's and a 34pict carb. Later when I build the larger motor I will ask for more information. Some of the items you mentioned are a good starting point for me. I have searched the forum for other builds to develop a plan that will work for me. There is a lot of information, almost to much for me. As I mentioned earlier I normally build stock, so this will be different for me.

Irene says thank you for the information regarding the transmission. She will find another way to make it different. Over the past few years she has met other female Ghia owners we see at VW shows and wants to be different from them. It is not a rivalry as they have become friends.

Thanks,
Mitchell

[Marc]

...Irene says thank you for the information regarding the transmission. She will find another way to make it different. Over the past few years she has met other female Ghia owners we see at VW shows and wants to be different from them...

Well, don't let her whack up the roof
How about a killer sound system all hidden behind the back seat? Not that it hasn't been done before, but done right it's an awesome upgrade that won't devalue the car.
If wiring work doesn't faze you, the Dakota Digital lighting control module is a neat modification. My son put one in my daily driver and now I'm totally spoiled, don't ever have to turn the lights on or off cuz they work by themselves. I suspect he may have done it as a preventative measure to guard against having to come rescue me should I forget to turn them off - I had to do that a lot for my Dad until I rigged a relay into his car

[Mitchell]

Not to worry about the top. The KG is a convertible. I like the idea of installing a lighting control module. A nice sound system is a must. Wiring is not much of an issue. Determining what cam works with this set of pistons and that crankshaft or these carbs is my challenge. I can assemble a stock motor without reservation, it is the modifying that I am reluctant to perform without input. I really don't wish to have her sitting on the side of the road waiting for a tow because I built the motor incorrectly.

We have discussed adding some seats from a Honda and modifying the door panels. I have read some articles in the past where the panels were sculpted with different designs. We have discussed this and will probably give it a try.

Thanks,
mitchell

[Phil69]

Solex 40/44's will work great with your 1600 and a w100 or w110 cam.
Recently Volksworld magazine ran back to back test with various carb set ups on a stock 1600 engine. Dynometers don't lie.

Top of the heap where the genuine Weber twin 40's (as if you needed the test) out classed all the other set ups.
Surprisingly though for gains with low end torque gains and mid range power the best of the single barrel dual carbs where the Kadron's (Solex 40/44's) go figure.
The thing that let them down was the comedy linkage which can be replaced by a nice bell crank linkage from CSP.
A Bugpack 6061 is a great cam I will be running a 6063 on my 1955cc.

[Mitchell]

Phil, thanks for the input. I will look into the carbs. The current build is an experiment for me to decide how to build the final motor for the Ghia.

Thanks,
Mitchell