Brake Choice

[no-cones]

I would like to upgrade my race car to front disc brakes. The reason for the conversion is to get rid of weight as stopping power is not an issue.
My car is a solo vee, which is based on a formula vee but with 9 inch wide slicks on the front and 10 inch on the rear. It is used exclusively for autocross. The front suspension is stock link pin, and the car with me in it has to weigh a min. of 1000 lbs.
I have spoken to some of the manufactures of brakes and all have been very helpful and honest. Gear One said his brakes weigh almost as much as what is on now. Gray Area only made front brakes for combo but the lady on the phone said if I get really desperate they might be able to help me but could cost a great deal more because they don't have any demand for that type of spindle. Again thanks to the people I spoke with for all their time.
So Here is my questions: Does anyone know of a set of front disc that are lighter than the stock drums? The must also be able to stop the car and fit on stock spindles. I am not allowed hollow or combo.
Does anyone have a set for sale?
Thank you, R

[Chip Birks]

Airkewld BAD series brakes are built from aluminum billet. Very nice parts. Not cheap, but you didn't mention budget was an issue.

[H2OSB]

You might look at what came on the Porsche 356C. It used some version of the VW link pin and had disc brakes (and I believe will bolt onto your unmodified spindles). Course, they can be spendy.

The thing to think about with regards to switching to discs is not so much weight reduction as moving the rotating mass further in towards the center of rotation. Obviously less overall weight is a good thing, however, having less mass further out means both faster acceleration and deceleration.

johnL (aka H2OSB)
http://www.superbeetlesonly.com

[no-cones]

You are correct The 356 Porsche brakes, which are aluminum drums will fit. However, The guy I spoke with at Obsolete Parts assured me they are at least as heavy as what I have now. Thanks, R

[FJCamper]

Hi No-Cones,

The overlooked truth is most disk brake conversions are as heavy if not heavier than the drum brakes they replace.

The best way to save weight on a disk brake conversion is to use the single rotor off the Ghias, drilled for lightness, and fit an aluminum caliper, not a cast iron part.

Good aluminum calipers are the Wilwoods, just pick the smaller dual-piston types, and an EMPI mount adapter. The EMPI adapters are made for drum brake conversions.

An option is to have CH Topping in California drill your drums which significantly improves performance. Cost is shipping your drums to them, and about $50 for the drilling.

FJC

[no-cones]

I have never heard of drilling drums. Are there any pictures of these? Thanks, R

[FJCamper]

Drum-drilling is not for lightness, but venting of heat, gasses, water, and dust.

It's very old trick, and it works very, very, well. Brake efficiency really goes up. We've used them on our rear drum-braked cars since 2004. No need for disks.

A series of small holes, in a wave pattern so no two holes overlap, are drilled around the outside of the drum.

http://www.chtopping.com

Topping does not sell VW drums. You have to send them your own.

FJC

[TouringBubble]

And you aren't allowed to drill/dimple discs after you swap?

[no-cones]

Thanks for all that responded.. I would drill holes in the drums if fade was a problem, but in autocross my runs are only 40 sec to 1 min. My issue is getting rid of weight. The car with me in it must weigh a min. of 1000 lbs. Right now WE weigh 1030 lb. One of us must loose weight and I do not like lite beer. By loosing the weight in the brakes not only do I get rid of the weight, I also reduced unsprung weight and rotational mass.
According to the rules I can do anything I want with the brakes as long as they deemed safe. So I can drill, slot or dimple. According to Appletree's shipping weights a stock front rotor weighs in at a hefty 21 lbs while a drum is around 13 lbs. I might have to stick with drums and look someplace else to get rid of the extra 29.999999 lbs. Maybe a lithium ion battery? and Bud lite
Thanks again, R

[no-cones]

Does anyone have any experience with these?
http://vwparts.aircooled.net/JAMAR-Fron ... 00vwlp.htm

[H2OSB]

I don't have any experience with them, but they sure LOOK light. I would wager you would shed some lbs. with that set up.

johnL (aka H2OSB)
www.superbeetlesonly.com

[ONEBADBUG]

My A-mod car has the rotors drilled like crazy, it's fine for autocross. That and aluminum calipers should save a lot of weight.

[Piledriver]

Here's your 30 pounds, easy...

Biggest weight issue is the rotors...

They make ceramic coated aluminum rotors for sprint cars and such.
VERY light, esp used with an alloy hub.

Pair these up with some old school centerlines or Welds and it can't get much lighter unless you go with smaller wheels etc.

I think these are just hard anodized, but it's a start:
http://www.summitracing.com/search/prod ... ake-rotors

[FJCamper]

Hi No-Cones,

Lots of places to cut weight, if that's all you need to do.

Post a couple of photos of your car.

Ideas, depending on your car ... run a motocycle battery. Lighter seat. Smaller gas tank. An autocross car does not need much gas. Lexan for any glass you can remove. If you're on 40 second tracks, run without a fan housing, alternator, etc., and only start the engine when you need to move, or have the crew push. This is an extreme but it works. FV's have been doing it for years.

FJC

[Chip Birks]

Did you take a look here? These are the most basic of his wilwood setups. You can also get 2 and 4 piston if needed.
http://www.airkewld.com/mobile/Product. ... tCode=4203