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I've missed my old VW since I sold it 5 years ago. I've been though college now and I'm moving into a house with a garage. Time for a project. I've got a rough idea of what I want the end result to be, and I'd like to start with building an engine first.

Car wise I'd like to set up a rail for street use/abuse. Autocross and maybe a few runs down the 1/4. Kind of a street legal toy. My last VW build was my DD so it made it difficult to work on and update. Now I can possibly have a fun side project. It doesn't have to be crazy fast. I wouldn't plan to rev it above 4500-5000 rpm.

I've built two engines in the past. First I built a budget 1600 in which I slipped a push-rod-tube seal and seized the engine in 250 miles. The second was a slightly less budget 1641 which is still running strong with the new owner. Now however I can take my time and do things correctly. I would like to build an engine with focus on durability and drivability. This is why I came upon the 2110 size. That would give me the biggest jugs that are thickwall without cooling issues(if I read everything right) and a pretty long stroke without excessive clearancing. I've been reading a lot on aircooled.net and vw-resource.com about combos and building. I've come up with what I think would be a decent combo and I'd like tips and pointers if possible. I don't know much about stroker building but I want to take my time and learn as I go. Let me know how my parts list looks.

New Mag case clearanced from AC.N
82mm CW crank
90.5 "B" P/C
Static Compression around 8:1
IBeam Rods (5.4"?)
1.4 Rockers
Uprated short pushrods
Mellow Cam (Recommendations?)
Stock DP heads
HD Springs
Pertronix SVDA
Deep Sump
Stock Doghouse cooling tin
Single IDF? Dual IDF? Something else?

Your spec sheet is sound for a super torquer for a bus or heavy camper van, but has a few questions for a multi purpose rail, multi purpose is the killer words engine builders hate because such an engine is fuel injected to accommodate all the disciplines you mention.
First of, dual carbs are the way to go, more economical and with a wider usable range than a centre mount, far better fuelling and no icing problems the centre mount can have, second the stock heads are limiting the breathing, read that as wasting potential with the other add ons you mentioned like 1.4 rockers, the stock ports won't flow enough for them to work well, so either port and gas flow the stockers or invest in better heads, you could do worse than budget CB loss banditos for not a lot of cash, save on the valve spring and big valve problem too as they come ready to go, your now ready to plan a cam and rockers, but now your gear ratios are the key, so a mild FK7 with 1.4 rockers would wake up a 2110,
It will be fast enough to scare you in a light rail, and the high torque available should still be fun off road, but again, tall off road tyres and stock gear ratios are not good friends, off road needs low and close gear ratios, so your planned agenda for use needs simplifying somewhat, remember it should be fun, not hard work, but your approach is sound by asking questions and willingness to learn, I applaud you for that. Best regards BBB.

buzzboy wrote:...That would give me the biggest jugs that are thickwall without cooling issues(if I read everything right)...

Modern 90.5s are sufficiently thick to avoid the distortion problems that classic 92s (and 94s) can have, but they are no longer the thickest readily-available cylinder. AA now makes a 92 cylinder that uses the same registers as the 94, so you could go to a 2180 and still have decent life expectancy - the upper cylinder wall thickness is ~.030" greater than that of the 90.5. There's also an 88mm cylinder being produced that uses the 90.5/92 registers - it's even thicker, but not appropriate for your project.
And if you'd prefer not to whack the case out to ~97.3mm, you have the option of turning down the lower spigots of the thickwall cylinders to the classic 96mm dimension (do this before final honing, as the operation can constrict the I.D. slightly).
Stock-length rods with an 82mm stroke are great for low-end grunt but the short 1.67:1 rodlength-to-stroke ratio increases piston/cylinder wear and requires better intake breathing to achieve the same RPM. If you seriously don't expect to be exceeding 5000 RPM, this isn't going to be a huge concern but since there'll be no engine width restrictions in a rail you may want to consider going with a longer rod...even a 5.5" would improve the rod ratio enough to be worth the effort IMO.
If longevity and keeping case clearancing to a minimum are more important to you than ultimate horsepower, you may want to consider going with a slightly shorter stroke. One combination that packages nicely is 92Bx76 with 5.5" rods - the engine ends up 2021cc and essentially stock width, with a 1.84:1 rod ratio.

What were you planning to do transaxle-wise? Even a tame 2-liter can destroy a stock gearbox if not driven a bit gingerly, and it doesn't sound as though that's what you have in mind.

Hey Buzzboy i have a Complete built 2110cc for sale right now and its fuel injected it has been dyno tuned and will revs out over 6k I' am taking a different direction with my car so this engine will not work for me. Motor was just rebuilt and i have receipts to prove it. Check it out


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