Hi Everyone,
Has anyone ever had this problem, where the rear trailing bolt keeps coming loose? I've tighten them to spec and even loc-wire them, and the driver side still comes loose. (The loc-wire just breaks off)
Thanks in advance for your advice.
IRS Rear Trailing Arm Bolt
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Ol'fogasaurus
- Posts: 17881
- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: IRS Rear Trailing Arm Bolt
I think just about everyone who deals with IRS has had it happen.
You are supposed to use a dull chisel and spike the flange on the pivot housing to fold into the groves on the bolt, in at least two places but it doesn't always work. I have seen the flange and bolt cross drilled and a cotter pin installed. I also have seen a bolt w/jam and flange welded to the torsion housing so that when the pivot bolt is in place and tightened to the right setting the head of the jam bolt is backed out up against the pivot bolt and the jam nut snugged down to the bracket. I also have seen variations on either way.
Just remember, what ever you do you still have to be able to back the pivot bolt out or apply torque to it again.
Lee
You are supposed to use a dull chisel and spike the flange on the pivot housing to fold into the groves on the bolt, in at least two places but it doesn't always work. I have seen the flange and bolt cross drilled and a cotter pin installed. I also have seen a bolt w/jam and flange welded to the torsion housing so that when the pivot bolt is in place and tightened to the right setting the head of the jam bolt is backed out up against the pivot bolt and the jam nut snugged down to the bracket. I also have seen variations on either way.
Just remember, what ever you do you still have to be able to back the pivot bolt out or apply torque to it again.
Lee
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Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: IRS Rear Trailing Arm Bolt
I've seen where off-road guys have welded a tube onto the bolt head so that some kind of lock tab/bolt could be used (and some just tack-weld the bolt, accepting that they'll need to grind/file off the weld if removal is required)...but simply staking the collar into the divots on the head of the bolt as the factory did will suffice unless something's wrong.
If it's been run with the bolt loose, the spacer tube inside the bushing (or worse, the ring surrounding the chassis threads) will be worn at an angle; if you don't replace the tube or do other restorative surgery to correct the root cause, the problem's bound to recur...the aforementioned "fixes" are like trying to mend a broken bone with a Band-Aid.
Classic examples of the type of damage I'm referring to:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/ ... C04217.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/ ... C04220.jpg
If it's been run with the bolt loose, the spacer tube inside the bushing (or worse, the ring surrounding the chassis threads) will be worn at an angle; if you don't replace the tube or do other restorative surgery to correct the root cause, the problem's bound to recur...the aforementioned "fixes" are like trying to mend a broken bone with a Band-Aid.
Classic examples of the type of damage I'm referring to:
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/ ... C04217.jpg
http://i49.photobucket.com/albums/f270/ ... C04220.jpg
