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Ok new to vw. Her is my problem leave my house laswt night make it half a block and oil light comes on. So Pull over and look oil is pouring out between engine case and transaxle. I pulled the motor and started checking it out but stop before I removed the flywheel because I read on the internet that end play can cause the rear main seal to go out. don't know what to doi or where to even start this car is my only wheels.e help and point me the right way.

So how much endplay does it have? It shouldn't be more than about .006", which is barely perceptible - just enough that you can see/feel it when you grasp the flywheel or pulley and push/pull on it.
It's very rare that a front seal goes that bad from excess endplay unless it's gross - in which case the engine would need to be torn completely down and remachined for a thicker thrust bearing. In the (very unlikely) event that you have "just" a bad seal, the flywheel has to come off to replace it...and there's nothing you can do about the endplay without the major surgery, so there's no reason to not remove the 'wheel. With the seal and endplay shims removed, you can see the thrust bearing flange and observe it moving in the case when the crankshaft is clunked back & forth.
Another cause of a big oil leak in that area is a cracked case - typically along the front of the casting, below the base of #3 cylinder. It'll leak a little for some time until the crack propagates to either one of the softplugs, whereupon the plug will blow out followed by most of the oil.
Both of these conditions (excess endplay and cracking) can happen to any engine but they're far more likely in the "cottage-cheese-alloy" `68/`69 cases, codeletter H5 or B5. If yours is one of those, your best course of action will most likely be to find another engine rather than invest any time or money into this one.

Ok so I got the flywheel off tonight and found that a oil galley plug was blown out is this normal. and what would cause this and how do I fix it . tap and plug it JB weld the old plug back in

I've NEVER seen a factory-installed galley plug blow out unless the case is cracked. If you're desperate for transportation I suppose you could tap the hole for a screw-in plug to buy some "free" miles while you search for a replacement engine - it'll still leak oil (maybe even enough to cause clutch issues) but if you check it frequently you should be able to keep ahead of the loss rate. Aluminum or brass plug will be better than steel since it'll have an expansion rate closer to that of the magnesium case.

On the later (c1971-up) cases the factory introduced the "sunken-stud" mod, whereby the top-front head stud on #3 cylinder was replaced with a longer one that was anchored more deeply into the case than the other top studs. This simple change almost eliminated case cracking, by staggering the stresses present at the bottom of #3 which cause the earlier cases to unzip there.
Years ago we had a young man sweeping floors at the shop to earn money to build an engine for his `69 Bus...I slapped together a trashmo for him using a worthless cracked case that I drilled/tapped for a "sunken-stud" insert. It still leaked a little, but he was able to use it for transportation for over six months until he could afford a better one