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Hi guys. I need some ideas.
I have the engine all ready to start. I have primed the carbs with the prime switch. This fills the float bowls while engine is off. I have spark at plugs. fuel is at the accelerator jets. Turn key and nothing. doesn't even try and fire. It seems to flood it self very easily, and some fuel is spilling out the exhaust slip joints. The fuel pump only comes on when the alternator light goes out so that's not coming into play while I crank it over. If it did fuel would overcome the carb needle. Also the reg only brings the psi down to 2 psi when the engine runs as it works with a manifold vacuum signal. I,m thinking of disconnecting the pump filling the float bowls with a syringe and trying it that way. Compression is good.

The carb prime/fill may be too successful, and you have wet plugs.
Are you limited to 2 PSI on fill?
... why are they empty, or is the car just a weekender?
Most pumps can fill a pair of carbs from empty in a few seconds.

With EFI you can usually clear a flood (WOT on cranking typically turns off the fuel/flood clear mode), but with carbs no so easy.
Pull the pump fuse and crank at WOT until it starts to hit?

Hi Pile. The carbs have been re assembled for turbo use, refitted and then primed. The fuel reg has been adjusted so it doesn't show any psi on the gauge. I do need to adjust it properly really. Got a mate coming over later , he can press the prime button while I adjust it. The adjuster on the reg is adjusted out so there shouldn't be much pressure There. You say the prime may be too successful, Thinking about it that is correct, if I press prime too many times I can see fuel dripping down the carb throat. I have cranked it on and off for too long now, gotta keep an eye on the starter, don't want to fry it. Its not the fastest at cranking over either,i may need to give it a tow to clear it. Perhaps use a bit of Easy Start too.

P.s just a bit of info. Those CB fuel tank T's are a pain. They leak if you use the rubber O ring. Got it sealed by removing the O ring and fitting 3 copper washers. I used 3 washers to stop the T piece bottoming out on the tank.

Remove and dry/Clean Plugs,fuel fouled
re install drip a TEASPOON of fuel down carbs and fire the beast up

You said you have vacuum holding the pressure to 2 lbs....What kind of regulator is it?

On a carb system you only need more pressure when on boost so the regulator should not see vacuum and you should set pressure to 2-3.5 lbs depending on carb. The only time fuel pressure should rise is when you go on boost.

If you are counting on vacuum to keep the pressure down you will have way too much pressure at startup and anytime the engine has just enough load to pull out of vacuum but not get into boost.
The regulator should be connected to the compressor outlet before the throttle plate.

With that much fuel in the engine and pouring out of the exhaust you should pull plugs and put new ones in. You could spin the engine over without the plugs in to dry it out but you might want to disable your coil while doing it.
check for spark at the plug by grounding it to the engine and turning it over once you have to excess fuel taken care of.

Thanks for the reply's guys. Clonebug the reg I have is a malpassi fpr 014. With the engine not running and the adjuster backed off and the prime button pressed the gauge shows 3 psi. I'm assuming I will have to readjust the reg when I finally get it going. This reg only seems to allow fuel back to the tank when the boost sensing port gets manually sucked on, or like manifold vacuum would.
Does the diaphragm in the reg work both ways.(like push/pull).

It still wont run. Not even with a jump start and some easy start. Even though it sparks I'm thinking it could be a weak spark as it doesn't even make an attempt to fire up.
I have a unknown brand module in the dizzy, it uses a magnet on the points cam. The coil is a bosch blue.
I can pull a plug and earth it on the case and it will spark when cranked over but the spark at the plug isn't that big/bright. The leads are in the right order also.

I was going to upgrade the ignition at a later date but I think I might have to get a petronix 111 module and coil just to be sure the spark is good enough.

Start from scratch.

Engine at TDC on #1.
Check distributor drive is correct.
Install distributor and check rotor for pointing at #1.
Put pulley at 7.5 DBTDC and use test light to set advance correctly. Turn on power and turn distributor just until light comes on with test light resting on points connector.
If necessary use a spare 009 with points/condenser to get it running on.
Install plug wires based on rotor pointing at #1 on cap.
Double check plug wires.

Put jumper cables on battery to get engine to spin over faster.

Check the float levels. Sounds like fuel is dumping to easy.. verify fuel pressure while starting. Verify trimming and spark.

Update . Removed all plugs. I did this to save the starter while testing the spark. So i put a plug on number 1 lead, earthed it out on the case and cranked it over. It does spark. Then i sprayed a bit of easy start on the plug to replicate the plug being fitted to the head and a few accelerator pump squirts hitting it.The spark gradually disappears. SO could it be the coil or the 12v supply to the coil failing.

Coil and or the capacitor?? in the distributor. If its a stock type. check points. I doubt its the power to the coil.

It runs.
I fitted a new petronix 3 module, flame thrower 3 coil and some 8mm leads. Fired first time.
Thanks for all reply's.
My next issue is getting the stainless header to seal. I have fitted the 4 pipes to each port under the heads.(type 4). Torqued these down good. These sealed well before I started the turbo conversion so should seal again. If I was to weld up all the slip joints while its fitted to the engine will I be able to remove it from the heads as 1 unit.

Hmm, I wouldn't do that. I'd replace the slip joints with flanges. My gut feeling is, you'll have a nightmare of a job getting it off and an you'll have to remove all the studs every time.

Put some "Copper Seal" on the pipes that slip into the joints but keep it a 1/4 inch or so from the edge. Let dry overnight and then boost away.

I'd weld flanges for sure.

You probably only need to add 2 flange pairs, both on one side.
If you set them up right they are self aligning, have the "female" with the tube set back about 1/2 way in the flange and the male extended to match, keeps things well aligned.

Doing only one side like that frees the whole thing up when disconnected, and cuts down on possible leaks.
(may be doing similar this weekend if lucky)