My 71 vert was wrecked.....someone ran into the rear of the car when a po had it.
I can not fit the rubber seal that goes between the motor sheet metal & the
engine compartment sheet metal.
I am thinking of replacing the seal with strips of a car inner tube held in place with
metal strips., but thought I'd ask if any members have a
better solution.
rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
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rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
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retired mech engr living in central florida
- Piledriver
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Re: rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
T4 busses use a rubbery foam seal with a "H" cross section... Works very well, and holds up for ages.
Commonly used on T4 conversions, but I have seen a few Its running it, probably due to the same ... er... "aging" effect that physics imparts to older cars.
Its relatively expensive for a hunk of foam, but so far no one has found a cheaper, nearly as effective solution.
Commonly used on T4 conversions, but I have seen a few Its running it, probably due to the same ... er... "aging" effect that physics imparts to older cars.

Its relatively expensive for a hunk of foam, but so far no one has found a cheaper, nearly as effective solution.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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- Joined: Sun Apr 20, 2014 4:24 pm
Re: rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
Great.......thanks for the tip.
Don
Don

retired mech engr living in central florida
- Marc
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Re: rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
The 411 813 225 Type IV foam seal isn't really going to help much unless you trim off quite a bit of sheetmetal, it's designed to fill the gap between two adjacent flat surfaces - neither your body or engine tin meet that description. And, the typical cost (north of $50) is exhorbitant IMO anyway. I see nothing wrong with your original solution, anything that seals well (and preferably doesn't make it too much of a P.I.T.A. to remove/install the engine) will work fine, and from what I've observed of your workmanship so far it probably won't look too bad either.
http://jk-uk-cdn.justkampers.com/media/ ... 19-0_6.jpg
http://jk-uk-cdn.justkampers.com/media/ ... 19-0_6.jpg
- Piledriver
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Re: rubber-motor sheet metal to body sheet metal seal
I have used it personally on unmodified T1 sheetmetal, works.
It would lay down flat and probably look/work/last best if you bent flat most>all of the lip off where it seals on the tin side, but it will still work.
Cannot argue about the price though, steep for foam H channel.
Have tried fabricating something similar out of the good neoprene foam pipe insulation, and the foam garage door sweep material, doesn't hold up over time like the real thing.
You can usually find an oil soaked ripped up one a a pick-n-pull cheap, there's miles extra for a T1.
It usually cleans up like new soaked in the degreaser tank and rinsed off, curious what kind of foam it is.
It would lay down flat and probably look/work/last best if you bent flat most>all of the lip off where it seals on the tin side, but it will still work.
Cannot argue about the price though, steep for foam H channel.
Have tried fabricating something similar out of the good neoprene foam pipe insulation, and the foam garage door sweep material, doesn't hold up over time like the real thing.
You can usually find an oil soaked ripped up one a a pick-n-pull cheap, there's miles extra for a T1.
It usually cleans up like new soaked in the degreaser tank and rinsed off, curious what kind of foam it is.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.