How do I remove e-brake boot without destroying it? '72 Bee

[rrb6699]

I need to fix my e-brake button. the boot over it was tucked into my new carpet and it looks like I'll have to remove the drivers seat to have some working room.

but I don't see how the boot slips off and don't want to rip it or anything.

just a minor issue, but, the boot is still original eqpt.

thx,

[ps2375]

If it's that old, it might be difficult to do w/o tearing it. The only advice I have is to make as much room as you can ad go slow.

[BAJA-IT]

The rubber boot just tucks into the hole in the carpet. But like ps2375 said, if it is old it may not come out easy.

[Steve Arndt]

The new boots are pretty lame quality so if yours is good try to save it.

I also like to put protective plastic/rubber caps on the parking brake cable threaded adjustment screws. They tend to poke into the boot and make holes.

[rrb6699]

thanks, I'll do that. once I get the boot off I can see if that has come loose too.

[Marc]

You don't need to completely remove the boot to fix a "popped" button -you only need to gain enough access to the underside of the lever to manipulate the pawl with small screwdriver. It needs to be flipped up so the end of the rod can just make it past the round end of the pawl, then coaxed into position in the shepherd's crook as it passes over.
The usual cause of a popped button is too-loose adjustment, and once the brakes are adjusted there won't be sufficient slack to allow reassembly - so you need to fix the button before you adjust the rears.

Best practice is to loosen the cables before adjusting the shoes, then tighten the cables until the brakes just begin to drag at the third click (with no drag at the second). If the cables are too tight, you can get a "false" adjustment of the shoes which will cause premature wear of the leading ones.

So-o-o-o, to do the job right the boot's gonna have to come off anyway, but if all you want to do is fix the button (and you're pretty confident nobody's overadjusted the cables) that can be done by just lifting up the bottom of it on one side...again, do it before you adjust the rear shoes.

[rrb6699]

I probably need to remove the boot. the cables on top of the e-brake handle feel like they are "floating" on top there.

I will get to the e-brake in a couple days since I'm working on some fibreglass right now. then I'll probably remove the drivers seat and see what I can do.

[Marc]

Early Beetles had each cable connected independently, which was great for reliability (if one cable broke, you still had one emergency brake) but a little bit fussy to adjust perfectly so both brakes applied simultaneously.
On the newer setup like you have, the cables pass through a balance plate that pivots atop a stub protruding from the top side of the handle. Now even if the cables are adjusted a little "off" the brakes will apply evenly - but if a cable breaks, the only thing enabling the other side to work is the little ⅛" diameter pin going through the center of the balance plate. Once that pin breaks off, the system will still work if everything's adjusted but eventually enough slack develops that the plate can slip off of the post. So, just at the moment that you may need the e-brake to work all you get is an ejected release button.

My "fix" for a broken pin is to clamp the post in a vise, dress off the domed end with a file and center-punch it for a ⅛" hole drilled ¼"or so deep, then insert a short piece of welding rod (or even a fat wire coat hanger). Better than new IMO since the new pin won't be as brittle as the original.


There are three lengths of handle. The location of the shifter was moved rearward in `68 and again in `73; each time the e-brake handle was shortened to allow room to get your thumb on the button (with the shifter in Reverse, as it might be after parallel-parking). Then when NHTSA mandated an e-brake idiot light the ratchet pawl was modified to make room for the switch atop the pan, and a window cut into the spine of the lever...that started in `74 IIRC.





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BNVrTcK6uNU
Rambling demo (takes five times as long as needed to get to the point) but it does show how the ratchet mechanism goes together.

[rrb6699]

thanks, unbelievably, I haven't gotten to this yet due to me fibreglassing delays because of stormy and then exceedingly hot weather. there's no shade or a/c where I work. hope to remedy that someday.

btw. the old boot is in exceptional shape and it doesn't slide far up the handle before the handle gets too wide to slip off over the top. should I just turn it inside out to do this button and adjust the brakes?