The big FLAPS chains (Oreallys/autozone) link a #1217 front wheel grease seal for late T3s and 914s.
(right along with the early seals that don't fit at all)
That is a single lip seal and IME does not last long.
The OEM part# crosses to a #1962 seal, which is a flanged double lip seal unit and it is just as common and costs no more.
Works peachy.
Front wheel seals---late T3
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Piledriver
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Front wheel seals---late T3
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Marc
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Re: Front wheel seals---late T3
To put it in VW P/N terminology, the front grease seals for ACVWs with disc brakes from `68½-up are 311 405 641B and the REAR seals for waterpumpers (Rabbit/Golf, Dasher/Fox, etc.) have the same dimensions and are typically cheaper & easier to find - they're 321 501 641.
The factory 321 501 641 didn't have a flange but most replacement parts do, and it's got a profile that's low/flat enough to clear on front disk applications.
The `68½-up drum seals (111 405 641B) have a thicker, domed flange which can rub the disk backing plate...they should also work if you're running without the backing plates, as with Type I "drop" spindles. At one time they were the least expensive option, but nowadays the 321 501 641 are often cheaper.
The "VW" parts sold under any of these P/Ns may be single- or double-lipped depending upon manufacturer, with single-lipped being the most common...if this is a concern, you've got to open the box and see for yourself.
The factory 321 501 641 didn't have a flange but most replacement parts do, and it's got a profile that's low/flat enough to clear on front disk applications.
The `68½-up drum seals (111 405 641B) have a thicker, domed flange which can rub the disk backing plate...they should also work if you're running without the backing plates, as with Type I "drop" spindles. At one time they were the least expensive option, but nowadays the 321 501 641 are often cheaper.
The "VW" parts sold under any of these P/Ns may be single- or double-lipped depending upon manufacturer, with single-lipped being the most common...if this is a concern, you've got to open the box and see for yourself.
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Piledriver
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Re: Front wheel seals---late T3
The #1962 seal has a coated metal body which is very thin, even thinner than the rabbit flanged seal.
Its a common enough part# that they are even generic "store brand" versions for $2.
Even the "National" brand ones are dirt cheap.
Next I need to find speedo cable to splindle seals that don't dry rot and leak in a few months.
Its a common enough part# that they are even generic "store brand" versions for $2.
Even the "National" brand ones are dirt cheap.
Next I need to find speedo cable to splindle seals that don't dry rot and leak in a few months.
Addendum to Newtons first law:
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
zero vehicles on jackstands, square gets a fresh 090 and 1911, cabby gets a blower.
EZ3.6 Vanagon after that.(mounted, needs everything finished) then Creamsicle.
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Marc
- Moderator
- Posts: 23741
- Joined: Thu May 23, 2002 12:01 am
Re: Front wheel seals---late T3
Since it'll service all '68½-up applications (including drum) I don't understand why the chain-stores even bother with stocking anything else.Piledriver wrote:The #1962 seal has a coated metal body which is very thin, even thinner than the rabbit flanged seal.
Its a common enough part# that they are even generic "store brand" versions for $2.
Even the "National" brand ones are dirt cheap...