\Cant get my freshly boosted 1914 to run. any ideas?

[beaker]

So, heres the build.

1914cc.
AS41 Dual Relief case Professionally cleaned, crack checked, align bored .20 Full flow oiling.

New Scat 4340 Counter weight Crank
New Scat I-Beam Rods W/ arp 2000 bolts
New Scat Lightened hardened Racing Lifters
New Engle 120 Cam
New Empi Straight Cut Gears
New Main, Cam, Rod Bearings
New Shadek 30mm Oil Pump Full Flow
New AA 94mm Piston & liners
New AA 042 Heads With Scat Stainless Steel Valves, Scat Dual Springs, Scat Chromoly retainers & keepers
New Cromoly Lightened Balanced Flywheel W/New Chromoly Gland Nut
New 75 AMP Alt
All New Engine Tin
009 with Pertronix Electric Ign
MSD blaster 2 coil

and then i bought a turbo kit for it. i need to replace the pistons to something else im sure but ill do that in a bit.

turbo is a drawthrough on a 4 barrel holly carb. summit fuel pump.

i bolted everything on but cant get it to start. i think its a issue in the coil but i replaced with a msd blaster2 and still wont fire. not getting any spark off the coil.

fuel rail reads 6 psi

could i be pooching the coil because im running a summit fuel pump off a prong on the positive side of the coil?

im gonna go check and see if the coil is bad right now, but its brand new out of the box so hard to see that

[andy198712]

Getting 12v to the coil right?

[Clonebug]

You should give the fuel pump it's own dedicated power with an appropriate sized fuse.

As far as draw through I have no experience with them so can't help you there.

[beaker]

I do have 12v to the coil, but even when cranking it over im not getting any spark off the coil when i ground it out to the car.

Ive looked at everything 10 times and cant figure it out

[Clonebug]

You have the two wires hooked up correctly to the coil???
One is power.......the other is condenser wire.
Make sure they are correct. There are numbers on them but it's been so long since I have run a coil I can't remember the numbers.
One should say #15 on it. Look up a VW wiring diagram online... it will have the correct way to hook it up.

Points are pretty simple.......all you need is a test light to check for power at the points.

[beaker]

running electronic ignition. so no condenser.

[Clonebug]

Did you happen to hook the two wires up backwards by any chance???

All it takes is just turning on the key with the wires wrong and POOF......the Module is fried.

I did it once and I never bought another one. I paid $65.00 for the first one and when I looked for a replacement they had gone to $95.00.
Points are less than $15.00 and work just as good and don't fry.

I went Crank fire ignition over 4 years ago now and I'd never run another distributor again...

[beaker]

Ive done some light reading on crank fire ignitions this morning and they seem the way to go, but im more of a carpenter then a mechanic. I do love the option of eliminating my dizzy and going to something more mechanical and smart. plus it will clean up some of the wiring disaster that is my current engine bay.

I browsed cb performances magnaspark ones and them seem pretty easy to install but im not super familiar with setting up timing maps and stuff. do these come with maps pre set on them? i see theres a boost setup too so i can just run some sort of tablet as a tach and their add on select a boost-boost controller?

Link to see their stuff
http://cbperformance.net/pdf/CrankTrigger.pdf

is there a better setup? should i be looking at something else?

[beaker]

Also i think i fried my electronic ignition unit. just another reason to go crank fire

[Piledriver]

The programmable ignition with a MAP sensor makes pulling timing under boost trivial.
Also allows proper "vacuum advance" at light loads even with a wild cam.
Will be a huge driveability win.

[Clonebug]

megasquirt looks expensive until you decide you want to expand your horizon to keep adding boost.
It is an addiction after all.
If you buy MS first and run ignition only you can always upgrade to FI later.
It won't cost more in the ECU since it will run it by default.
You will still have to get the other hardware but you can hunt for that while running ignition only.
Find some points to see if the module is fried and go from there.
Surely there is a buddy somewhere that has a spare distributor you can try.
Otherwise get a set of points and condenser

[Piledriver]

megasquirt looks expensive until you decide you want to expand your horizon to keep adding boost.
It is an addiction after all.
If you buy MS first and run ignition only you can always upgrade to FI later.
It won't cost more in the ECU since it will run it by default.
You will still have to get the other hardware but you can hunt for that while running ignition only.
Find some points to see if the module is fried and go from there.
Surely there is a buddy somewhere that has a spare distributor you can try.
Otherwise get a set of points and condenser

I don't know, a Microsquirtv3 with short harness is still only $339, can run LS2 coils sequentially or with waste spark with a $35 4 tower VW coil (logic driven) add the external map sensor of your choice (3BAR GM works) a hall sensor and wheel, you have programmable ignition...
... and potentially boost control, water injection control, rev limit, excellent datalogging etc...
Add the cost of registering Tuner Studio if you add fuel, will pay for itself pretty quick.

If you have reasonable minor fab skills you can also fit a 36-1 or 72-1 wheel in a gutted std distributor. Steel RC truck spur gear with one gap between teeth filled with weld, a ~tooth shaped bit of steel JB Welded in will work too.

[beaker]

I put a brand new distb in it tonight but think i put it in 180 degrees off. wouldent fire just shoot gas back up the carb.

so once i think i figured this out i swapped the plug wires around so it was opposite to see if that faired any better and it popped alot more. still wouldent run.

clearly taking the dist. out and flipping it once i get the motor to TDC is my next task, but its already 8pm here and ive worked most of the day.

tommorw it starts.

[Clonebug]

The bottom drive is offset to one side so therefore you can't install it 180 degrees off unless you beat it in with a hammer.
Start from the beginning.
Pull the right side Valve cover.
Turn engine until at #1 TDC compression.
Look inside distributor hole to confirm correct position of drive gear. There should be info on the internet or else your Haynes or Bentley book should have it.
Install the distributor with the rotor pointing at #1 and the notch in the Distributor body.
Use test light to static time the distributor.
Double check plug wires are on correctly.
Fire the engine and time with timing light.

[beaker]

almost firing. tommorrow it will be running. ill set the timing properly and get it fired up.

https://youtu.be/_AuYK9RWguw