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?
Posted: Sat Apr 30, 2016 12:06 pm
by bad62bug
I have the CB rear disc brakes race version
Was thinking about having my son machine new hubs out of aluminum
think they would hold up? Any type of aluminum i should use or treatment to the part aka hard anodized?
I see other kits with aluminum hubs.
Re: ?
Posted: Mon May 02, 2016 7:33 am
by risk
6061 is strong and machines easily. Very common and also sometimes called aircraft aluminum. Anodize is going to make the surface harder (better wear characteristics), won't really increase the overall strength of the part.
Re: ?
Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 2:20 pm
by bad62bug
Thanks for the reply
Re: ?
Posted: Tue May 03, 2016 8:07 pm
by Piledriver
bad62bug wrote:Thanks for the reply
Hit up Devastator, he can make them and at least knows who has the tooling to broach them for the axles.
Re: ?
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 11:42 am
by Steve Arndt
Putting the stub axle drive splines in aluminum isn't a good idea.
Re: ?
Posted: Wed May 04, 2016 3:01 pm
by bad62bug
Thanks for the reply's
wasn't sure if it would work or not.
Re: ?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 1:11 am
by Bruce2
Steve's right, the Al won't hold up at the splines. That's why Porsche aluminum drums had a steel insert for the splines.
Re: ?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 8:08 am
by risk
what about the CNC hubs? the site says they are machined from 7075 alum
Re: ?
Posted: Thu May 05, 2016 8:09 am
by Steve Arndt
Not a good idea, but people will buy anything.
Re: ?
Posted: Fri May 06, 2016 2:07 am
by Piledriver
Strictly in defense of aluminum...
The circle track Wide5 hubs (Wilwood etc) use bolt-on anodized 7075 drive hubs with std v8 axles plugged in.(greased)
They are a consumable but they A) have a tiny fraction of the engagement area, with an angled spline contact, and B) get 300HP/side pushed through them in many cases. and C)
Still last for ages in most cases.
OTOH, all it does is transfer power; it doesn't hold the car up, or even keep the hub attached to the axle.
They
fall off and the car just rolls to a stop in a fully controlled fashion, brakes and all, just "no va"
They do make CrMo versions but those are made for stupid HP/off road (ab)use and "off axis" setups with ball-ground axle splined ends with contact area too small to be believed.
The square teeth should work fine IF you can keep the aluminum hubs tightened down, which would be my concern.
A shrink fit iron or steel center would solve all issues.(Including having the splines broached $$$)
These could be easily made from dead OG rear drums.
The CrMo steel T3 style hubs from CB or ISPWest could be lightened a LOT, and will be much stronger.
I suspect a $35 cast iron OG or even EMPI type3 hub may even be
better than aluminum
in this use due to fatigue.