engine bay seal for type 1

[bj]

after a SUPER long hiatus...i'm back on my build...2316cc type 4 into my 59 ragtop...i've torn a part my engine bay seal and was wondering what to use to replace it? i don't see many listings for a body that old...or just go with pretty much any bug seal?

thanks.

BJ

[Marc]

The one that runs across the bottom of the firewall is 111 813 741G; the main one that runs around the engine for yor car is 111 813 705A which is the type with 2 flat lips, one's supposed to go over and one under the engine tin. The later style that forms a "trough" around the engine which tucks under the tin at the bottom is 111 813 705D and might work in your car too...IIRC the channel that you have to wrestle the seal into didn't change. But if the old one fit OK you should probably get the same style...Brazilian seals are only ~$12, I don't think I'd pay more for German especially if it'll need to modified at all for the Type IV motor.

Early: http://www2.cip1.com/v/vspfiles/photos/ ... 05-A-3.jpg

Late: https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/imag ... i3du0-4qqA

Firewall piece (the OEM one is single-lip but you can also use a piece of one of the early double-lip main seals) https://d2m4kcr6k6fa8s.cloudfront.net/_ ... ADCAE6.jpg

[bj]

Sweet!! Thanks for the info!!

BJ

[Piledriver]

The later Bay bus engine "H" channel foam engine compartment seal works better on T4 conversions, unless you make the new tin with the proper rolled over>flat vertical bits to work with the factory seals, then its just much easier to install.

Plain sheetmetal edges as on most T4 conversion sheetmetal filler will saw through the rubber T1 seals in weeks.
If you make everything in steel, you can tack weld brake line around the edge to prevent it digging in the T1 seals.
You could probably also glue "catapillar grommet" nylon stuff onto aluminum to similar effect, although glue and aluminum can be a tough combo to keep together long term.

Note the bus seal is designed FOR plain deburred sheetmetal edges, as that was factory t4 setup, but 3/16-5/16 tubing edges are fine if you go there, its very forgiving.

They are a bit pricey for the real thing but last decades, and you only need one.

Leave a ~1/2" gap and stuff it in, inner edge around the engine sheetmetal.
It will be way too long.

[bj]

Pile,

Thanks for the info. I have the aluminum surround tins from jake when I bought my DTM (#12) all those years back.

It just looked like the "H" for the bus foam looked too big to fit in my "h" tin on the car...so was a bit leery.

BJ

[Piledriver]

It will fill a >1" gap, the stuff is almost 3" wide if not soaked in crunchy old oil and squished up.
I'm not sure what Jake recommends, but you could always ask Charles at thetype4store (LN Engineering), great guy.
If the engine bay is ... less than perfect... its the only sane answer IMHO.

[bj]

Pile,

The car is pretty cherry so no worries in that front. I bought the tool from gab-fab (?) to straighten out the channel since its crimped/pushed in in many places.

I'll see if Charles has any input.

Thanks.

BJ