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Was just thinking tonight about Engine Oil Flush, like this stuff...

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/products/engine-flush

When I had my subaru EJ in my VW, they suggested this every few changes. Is it something that should or shouldn't be used on ACVWs?

Why? Why not?

No thoughts? No ideas?

wow....

How often are you changing it and what type are you using? Is it in there long enough to build sludge? Who's "they" and if it's solvent free, how does it remove deposits? Looks like more potential snake oil.

"They" was the Subaru factory. I know other OEMs recommend it too.

I'm using a 25w/60 mineral oil with added zinc changed every 6 months or so. The car doesn't get driven all that much. I'm guessing a few thousand miles a year. I've seen pretty nasty sludge in VW oil pans, but I guess you probably don't need the flush if your oil is regularly changed and the motor is running a clean tune and a good air filter. I'm already using a full flow setup and external filter anyway.

It's probably more important that the oil gets to 190-200*f to get rid of condensate and such, short trips were oil doesn't get hot enough is worse than extended OCI's. I might consider the "flush" once in awhile on a short trip motor if the oil is left in there for the full mileage.

Do you have an oil filter in line or have you gone to full flowed the case? Adding zinc to a solid lifter engine is a very good idea as most of the lubricants now days have little or no zinc in them. ps2375 makes good points.

Time scheduled oil changes are the best way to go especially if you are doing low mileage driving; "sitting" just isn't that good for engines. High mileage driving I am not sure of anymore due to changes in the lubricants and the BS you can get now days. A lot of claims I am just not sure of based on some of the products I used to buy that have been sold to businesses I didn't have a lot of confidence in. Add to that there have been changes made to the product(s) by them or that were dictated by the fed government (not sure about where you live).

That being said... I am just not sure about a lot of those "extras" that are advertised (I think advertising borders on professional lying at times). I have heard good, bad and negative about some of them while at other times I have been told that they are not necessary; this is by people who are selling the product/services as it is a "depends" kind of on use (the second and third sentences of the above paragraph). Back when a lot of the products/services were coming in there ended up being a lot of negative "events' because of them but, again, not sure now days. I guess you have to watch the legal services advertisers' ads to see if there is a problem or not.

I hope that this is not too confusing.

Lee

My filter is 'in-line' I guess. The oil I use is this stuff...

https://www.penriteoil.com.au/applicati ... 60-mineral

I thought they might be difference where you are. Zinc is either gone or way reduced here.
You can just bearly see it but the orange thing by the back up light on the driver's side is my oil filter. My engine also has a deep sump on the bottom of the engine. My engine is full flowed also. I am not sure if your ACVW had filters but I don't think they had them here.

This is an old picture so the hoop is gone and a cage has been added as well as a full body lift.

Lee

Nah, we never got filters here. My motor is also running an extra cooler and a deep sump. The only thing that puts me off using the flush is that my cooler doesn't drain as such when you swap the oil.

P.s. glad to see I'm not the only one with a leaking deep sump.

petew wrote: ↑Tue Jun 05, 2018 8:20 pm I'm using a 25w/60 mineral oil .......... I've seen pretty nasty sludge in VW oil pans,

I have to ask why you're using that tar?
Since your engine's bearing clearances were designed for 30 wt oil, what have you changed to warrant a 60?

I think thick oil like that has a hard time circulating through the engine. Maybe that's why you have sludge.

That's why my engine builder suggested. It get's pretty hot here in summer.

petew wrote: ↑Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:53 pm That's why my engine builder suggested. It get's pretty hot here in summer.

I would use the thinnest oil that maintains the pressures you want. Right now my motor has a mixture of 5/30 and 10/30 in it. Last time I drove it all summer it had 10/40 in it. Even with the 5/30 I have all the oil pressure I can use. Unless he built it loose, the oil will be bypassing the cooler and just get hotter and thinner.

even on days in the 90° I get 60#s of oil pressure when running off idle.

Lee

ps2375 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 08, 2018 3:27 pm

petew wrote: ↑Thu Jun 07, 2018 9:53 pm That's why my engine builder suggested. It get's pretty hot here in summer.

I would use the thinnest oil that maintains the pressures you want. Right now my motor has a mixture of 5/30 and 10/30 in it. Last time I drove it all summer it had 10/40 in it. Even with the 5/30 I have all the oil pressure I can use. Unless he built it loose, the oil will be bypassing the cooler and just get hotter and thinner.

Well that's the curious thing. The motor runs really cool. Even on hot days the oil temp in my sump never gets above about 185F. Head temps never get above 250F.

Anyhow, tomorrow I'm changing the oil. I don't want to change down as low as 10W40. Is there something I can run in between that as a trial? I don't have an oil pressure gauge, just the factory warning light.