Could anybody help me with putting together 78x90,5?

[joosep]

I have taken apart about 20 type1 engines and repaired few ones and boosted few of them but here in estonia there are only stock engines....I think about 1% of local bugs and busses has something better under the lid. But now my friend bought a car from germany and killed the 78x90.5 engine. (cast crank failure took almoust everithing with it)

I have OK brazilian case
OK 044 big valve heads
OK oilpump
Ok lifters but I cant reuse them... correct?

everithing else is toasted.

My local friend could help me with good prices from these three stores:
www.vwheritage.com
www.paruzzi.com
www.justkampers.com

Now I need cheapest engine to that case and for these heads....I would prefear same displacement and similar cam if its not pushing price up because it was really pain in xxx when I tuned this carbs to work with that engine.

Could anybody help me with choosing parts from these shops or knows any other way to build it as cheap as possible here in scandinavia. Owner uses this car for few thousands km per year max and it would be fine if it make less HP but holds together next 5-6 years atleast.

Thanks guys!


Edit: If i checked these shops for first and main part I noticed that there was nothing in justcampers and there was cast scatin paruzzi but forged empi in heritage. Is it correct that this cast crank will kill new engine soon?

[Kafer_Mike]

Looks like 'cheap as possible' may have gotten your friend into this situation. You couldn't pay me to put a cast crank (or cast flywheel) in a performance Type1. The crank is the 'backbone' of the engine.

Looking at VW Heritage's site, I would go with a CB Performance 78.4 forged crank and an Engle 110 or 120 cam with new lifters. Also, you don't mention the carbs or exhaust so consider that in your cam selection. Dual Weber 44IDFs (or 40IDFs) and a free-flow exhaust would be ideal.

[V8Nate]

AA performance has great deals on everything you need

[woodsbuggy1]

In my experience, I would either build a 69mm stroke with 94mm pistons or a 82mm stroke with whatever size pistons you chose, the smaller strokes seem to not be right with A or B pistons without a lot of shims or machine work. As far as cam choice, talk with whoever is building your heads, there are lots of great options, most of them way better than the 110.
Good Luck
Kenric

[joosep]

Looks like 'cheap as possible' may have gotten your friend into this situation.

Thats great situation when cheap engine lasted 10+ years. I wisch I could do that once more.

Looking at VW Heritage's site, I would go with a CB Performance 78.4 forged crank and an Engle 110 or 120 cam with new lifters. Also, you don't mention the carbs or exhaust so consider that in your cam selection. Dual Weber 44IDFs (or 40IDFs) and a free-flow exhaust would be ideal.

So this woul be not so good as CB? : https://www.vwheritage.com/ac1051145-em ... l-vw-spare

carbs are dual weber 40´s

[joosep]

AA performance has great deals on everything you need

Thanks I´m checkin their page now. If the shipping wont kill me maybe I order parts from there

[joosep]

In my experience, I would either build a 69mm stroke with 94mm pistons or a 82mm stroke with whatever size pistons you chose, the smaller strokes seem to not be right with A or B pistons without a lot of shims or machine work. As far as cam choice, talk with whoever is building your heads, there are lots of great options, most of them way better than the 110.
Good Luck
Kenric

I noticed that there is no crank price difference, so I would go with 82mm stroke with same piston size i think (rods / case clearence can be made here but nobody wants to hear about making bigger holes to heads or case.

Heads are in really good shape and the don´t need rebuild.

[Bruce2]

In my experience, I would either build a 69mm stroke with 94mm pistons or a 82mm stroke with whatever size pistons you chose, the smaller strokes seem to not be right with A or B pistons without a lot of shims or machine work.

I disagree with this.
My last engine was a 78 stroke crank with stock rods and "B" Cima pistons. It assembled just like a stock 1600 with minimal shims. The pushrods came out to stock length. All the tin fit perfectly.

For a long life engine, I do not recommend 94s. Hands up, who has built a 94 bore engine then used it for 100k miles without a re-ring?

I also wouldn't recommend the 82 stroke crank. With stock rods, the rod angle is getting pretty high. This causes more piston rock than with a shorter stroke, leading to less piston/ring life.

[Kafer_Mike]

Looks like 'cheap as possible' may have gotten your friend into this situation.

Thats great situation when cheap engine lasted 10+ years. I wisch I could do that once more.

Looking at VW Heritage's site, I would go with a CB Performance 78.4 forged crank and an Engle 110 or 120 cam with new lifters. Also, you don't mention the carbs or exhaust so consider that in your cam selection. Dual Weber 44IDFs (or 40IDFs) and a free-flow exhaust would be ideal.

So this woul be not so good as CB? : https://www.vwheritage.com/ac1051145-em ... l-vw-spare

carbs are dual weber 40´s

I've seen people run Empi cranks without issue, but I'm just not a fan of Empi products overall. I would use either a CB crank or quality welded counterweight German crank (DMS or DPR). And I agree with Bruce on sticking with the 90.5s for longevity.

[joosep]

Thanks for your answers.

vhat about rods, they seem to be grinded stock ones but bolt head look really weak....yep they didn´t broke down but looks really weak. Maybe some other rods fit better without grinding them

[joosep]

[V8Nate]

H beam rods are getting pretty cheap and are a great improvement over stock rods

[V8Nate]

Now that's some carnage! Throw that oil restrictor plate in the garbage!

[Kafer_Mike]

Thanks for your answers.

vhat about rods, they seem to be grinded stock ones but bolt head look really weak....yep they didn´t broke down but looks really weak. Maybe some other rods fit better without grinding them

The standard CB Performance or Scat I-beam rods are fine for a street motor. You can get them with ARP rod bolts if you want a bit more 'insurance'. From the picture, it looks like he's running clearanced stock rods so they should drop right in. H-beams are a good upgrade, but not necessary and may require some additional case clearancing.

[Kafer_Mike]

If that is what you are referring to as the "OK brazilian case", I would double-check those crank and rod bearing journals and flush out all the oil passages really well. Also, it appears there's a crack in the top of the case near the 2nd case stud.