2084 Turbo Build

[kangaboy]

Hi all. I'm going to keep my original thread going and will incorporate this new motor in the Beetle build when its done, but I have a handful of questions and thought it would be easier to start a new thread for the new motor build.

Anyway, going with a 2084cc (78.4 x 92) and here's a list of parts that I've gotten so far:
Crank - 78.4 VW Journal from DPR (8 Dowel, Counter Weighted)
Flywheel - Lightened and match balanced from DPR
Case - New Aluminum Bubble Top Case from CB (cut for 92mm, shuffle pinned, clearanced, 10mm Case Savers, etc)
Heads - New 041 Autolina, 40x35.5, 60cc chamber(Dual Springs, cut for 94mm)
Pistons - 92mm JE Forged B Height
Cylinders - 92TW from AA (94mm at head, 92mm at case)
Case Studs - 10mm Chromoly from CB
Connecting Rods - Looking at Scat 5.5" with ARPs. Not ordered yet, but in the cart.
Cam- ???
Rockers- ???
Lifters - ???
Push Rods - ???
Turbo-???
I'll have my MS3x with crank fire and sequential fuel (and hope to have my current issues solved before moving this new motor in)



My lead engineer and fellow ShopTalker @JimmyHoffa got everything all measured up and showed me the power of the mighty micrometer.
Spending the extra money for a DPR crank and a CB/Autolina case really paid off as everything spec'd out great. Silverline mains, Mahle double thrust, and Mahle connecting rod bearings. Slapped a standard size connecting rod in with one of the new cylinders and the deck height was .14", so going to get some 5.5" connecting rods from Scat with ARP bolts, and that should put us at .040 deck, which would be a 8.8:1 static compression ratio. Now for the questions:
Cam...i have no clue. "Cue Mikes FK10 or 8 comment:D " Is this a "call someone and tell them what kind of motor I'm trying to build" and then have them suggest/grind an appropriate cam?
Turbo - That's a little bit down the road, but after going to the track last year, I really wanna get in the 12ish second range. Gonna see how all the other parts stack up, and then make a decision on this.

New transaxle, clutch, tires/wheels and all that will be in the current build page, as this will just be for the new motor build.

[madmike]

Mind reader ,, i'm going with the Fk 8 because of the 40 x 35 valves in my 044's too ,if I had the larger 42x37.5 's id go with the fk10
some good 1:4 rockers and a nice t3/t4 I've ran 50/48, 50/.57 , 60/.63 pick ur poison

[Schweg]

Is this your weekend play thing or looking at a more regular type driver?

Have you looked at the 25 page turbo cam discussion?

[kangaboy]

Is this your weekend play thing or looking at a more regular type driver?

It will kind of be like my Beetle is now. A nice weather daily that I can put some DOT tires on and take the the track on the weekend.

As far as the cam...I'll get going on that reading. It's not something that I was particularly concerned with prior to this build, so maybe some knowledge will stick a little more this time around

[Schweg]

Is this your weekend play thing or looking at a more regular type driver?

It will kind of be like my Beetle is now. A nice weather daily that I can put some DOT tires on and take the the track on the weekend.

As far as the cam...I'll get going on that reading. It's not something that I was particularly concerned with prior to this build, so maybe some knowledge will stick a little more this time around

viewtopic.php?f=3&t=106178&hilit=Camshaft

It’s a lot to lump through.

If you haven’t purchased rockers yet I would say get 1.4 most of those have less movement at the lifter bore. Though there are 1.25 camshafts that are close if you have them.

Also cam choice is gonna have some relation ship on how good the street manors are.

[buguy]

Is there any port work to the heads?

[kangaboy]

Is there any port work to the heads?

Not yet, and any that gets done to it will be by me and my Dremel on the work bench.
I will be match porting them to whatever intake manifolds I get. Thinking it will be the CB high flow ones, unless I end up making a nice set like the ones you have on your current motor.
I'll be buffing the combustion chambers a bit as well to remove sharp edges and burrs.

[Schweg]

I wouldn’t waste money on the big beef manifolds that are the stock end casting style. I’m pretty sure I paid for marketing and a fitting issue more then any gained flow.

[buguy]

The advantage is the meat that is there for the possibility of port work on the big beefs. I knew i was going to weld on plenums and didn't want to have to do it again. I personally got what i wanted when i bought mine though. I'd get 'em again.
Cams are tough to choose. I try to base it on the rpm range i want to make power in. Better driveability is power in the lower rev range, more power in the higher rev range. My 2054 is a rocket on the low end, but seems to run out of steam at around 6000 rpm. That is with 12 psi of boost. Cam is a Web 163. It is .505" lift and 250@50 with 1.25 rockers. If you want more rpms then that, just run more duration. If i were to do it again, i would run just a bit more duration and use a cam designed for 1.4 rockers. Maybe a bit more lift too. I feel like i could give up a little of that low end for more top end power. There is enough power there to spare some down low.

[madmike]

That why I chose the FK8 with the 1: 4's will be easy on the lifter bores and will rev to the 'moon'
lowend will not be an issue with a stroker

[Clonebug]

The cam will depend on your driving style or habits......Are you going to want it to rev to get power or a wider power band but not rev as high???

The FK-8 and FK-10 have a fair amount of duration and overlap and your vacuum signal might suffer from it.
I watched an engine on the dyno with a FK-89 and it wouldn't build any vacuum until 3000-3500 rpm. Of course that cam has 328 degrees duration so what would you expect.
I tend to want to make power a little earlier in the rev range and get a broader torque line that way.

Since I've studied some cams I think with your engine a FK-42 or 44 would work well. Maybe even a FK-65.
If you go for the higher lift make sure you have the valve springs and the clearance that is needed.
I want to stay in the .520 valve lift range.

I have picked a new cam for my engine since it will be opened up for inspection this spring.........The only reason I'm switching is because I want a cam designed for 1.4 rockers. I'll keep the same lift but just a hair more duration and overlap to push the hp and torque peak up a little farther.

[buguy]

I can't verify it, but i think i read the FK series of cams are very hard on the valve train. I was considering an FK-65 until i read about how harsh it is. Might do some research on those before pulling the trigger.

[madmike]

It's the VZ series cams that wear out the bores FK with the 1:4's are are 'easy' on them
and if ya want or need the cam to come 'on' sooner just advance it a couple degrees
I have my FK 10 straight up with no advance and comes in quick enough, has plenty of 'Vacuum' too

[buguy]

You may be right. I definitely could be mistaken. There are tons of guys running fk-8/fk10's.

[kangaboy]

I appreciate the follow up guys. I have been doing a little research here and there, and was leaning towards a Web 218 on 112 lobe centers with 1:1.25 rockers. I wanna take this motor to the drag strip in my full bodied beetle, but that would only be like once or twice a year. I will mostly be driving back and forth to work and flooring it from stop light to stop light, and I was hoping to get to 30psi with E85. I will have the rotating assembly balanced and would hope a 7k rpm would be a safe-ish redline.

Discuss...