Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
- seabeebuggy
- Posts: 3581
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:25 am
Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
I have been working on working, restoring my high school Bug. In 1968 My parents found out they were going to have an awesome kid soon (Me). They decided they needed to get a more modern car that would save them money on fuel. My dad was in the Navy, stationed at El Centro Naval Base In CA. They could not afford gas to see family, so my grandparents would send them 5.00 each week so they would drive the 6 hours to come to see them. They went out a bought a new 1969 model VW Bug. It was white with a red basketweave interior.
Sporting a Single port 1500 CC engine. My dad was a Mopar drag racer before Vietnam, so this must have been a hard transition. 15 years later, the little bug sat unused in the driveway. I owned 2 cars already, A 62 T Bird and a 63 Lincoln continental. My dad, likely thinking of his pocketbook said you could drive my bug. He never said it was mine. Ever! We would take a trip to Mexico and get a custom red valor upholstery job done. Later (Due to theft), he bought a new 1600 Single-port Engine from GEX. I drove that thing like it was a race car.
While driving it to High school, it would be stolen 3 times and stripped 2 times. 2 Trips to Mexico for new upholstery. In 1987 I painted it myself under a tree and lowered it. My dad was mad that I had lowered it. After Bootcamp, I drove it back and forth to Ventura until I received orders to New Port, RI. I was not about to take it to RI and then Later Gulf port MS. I did not want it to rust. I bought a new truck and drove there. From time to time, I would come home on leave, pull out the bug, and get it going. I would use it while I was there. As time went on, it was just not used and parked in the barn where cats pissed. From 1992 to 2016, it sat there.
My dad died in 2016, and I knew I had to keep it in the family. I went to the barn to check on it. The seats turn to dust if you touched them, and the tires are crusty and flat. The door's hinges must be rusted in place as It is hard to pull the door open or shut it. I towed it on a Flatbed trailer back to my new home in NV. It has 8 years of Back owed registration to CA. Like $900.00 so I can get the title. It has sat there in 1 spot until today. I jacked it up in the air to get under it and sit while working on it. I sold my Manx style buggy with a turbo engine so I could fund this project. After the sale, I realized I should have taken the engine out and sold it with the subi engine I have sitting there for it. I should have stripped it down and used the 091 trans in it, too, but I got 15k, and it is used as a show car for a local business, so I am happy about that.
OK, Now for the plans.
My goal is to modernize the brake system, keep it looking stock on the outside, except for the paint and lowered stance. I am going to order a turn key CB Performance turbo EFI 2387. 14k, so there goes the buggy money.
Body-off restoration.
The Pan will get rhino lined on the top and bottom. It is still rust-free except for the rusty patina.
New everything. Wires brakes everything.
I have 3 questions to start with.
1. 325 HP on a super street trans built years ago. It was built by transpro, Called the Fail safe trans. If I could break it, it was rebuilt for free. It is still in good shape. But I have busted my share of trans in the past. Would a built 5rib 002 or 091 work with a stock bug lowered? I'm not sure how much I have to worry about stock tires hocking up. LOL. It will not be a racing bug but will use the power when needed to have some fun.
2. What is the best break system I can use, including master? All-wheel disk. Is there a pedal system that works well and looks mostly stock? I don't want to cut the body, but I am also 6'3 and need the legroom.
Also, I have an adjustable ball joint front end. I want the best ride, so lowered spindles help any? Or not.
3. Wire harness to convert over to an alternator set up. My wiring was not working well when I was driving it.
I have been away for a long time when working on bugs. Some solid feedback is appreciated.
I take daily photos of all my work. It is 30 to 50 outside, so work will be slow.
Mike.
Sporting a Single port 1500 CC engine. My dad was a Mopar drag racer before Vietnam, so this must have been a hard transition. 15 years later, the little bug sat unused in the driveway. I owned 2 cars already, A 62 T Bird and a 63 Lincoln continental. My dad, likely thinking of his pocketbook said you could drive my bug. He never said it was mine. Ever! We would take a trip to Mexico and get a custom red valor upholstery job done. Later (Due to theft), he bought a new 1600 Single-port Engine from GEX. I drove that thing like it was a race car.
While driving it to High school, it would be stolen 3 times and stripped 2 times. 2 Trips to Mexico for new upholstery. In 1987 I painted it myself under a tree and lowered it. My dad was mad that I had lowered it. After Bootcamp, I drove it back and forth to Ventura until I received orders to New Port, RI. I was not about to take it to RI and then Later Gulf port MS. I did not want it to rust. I bought a new truck and drove there. From time to time, I would come home on leave, pull out the bug, and get it going. I would use it while I was there. As time went on, it was just not used and parked in the barn where cats pissed. From 1992 to 2016, it sat there.
My dad died in 2016, and I knew I had to keep it in the family. I went to the barn to check on it. The seats turn to dust if you touched them, and the tires are crusty and flat. The door's hinges must be rusted in place as It is hard to pull the door open or shut it. I towed it on a Flatbed trailer back to my new home in NV. It has 8 years of Back owed registration to CA. Like $900.00 so I can get the title. It has sat there in 1 spot until today. I jacked it up in the air to get under it and sit while working on it. I sold my Manx style buggy with a turbo engine so I could fund this project. After the sale, I realized I should have taken the engine out and sold it with the subi engine I have sitting there for it. I should have stripped it down and used the 091 trans in it, too, but I got 15k, and it is used as a show car for a local business, so I am happy about that.
OK, Now for the plans.
My goal is to modernize the brake system, keep it looking stock on the outside, except for the paint and lowered stance. I am going to order a turn key CB Performance turbo EFI 2387. 14k, so there goes the buggy money.
Body-off restoration.
The Pan will get rhino lined on the top and bottom. It is still rust-free except for the rusty patina.
New everything. Wires brakes everything.
I have 3 questions to start with.
1. 325 HP on a super street trans built years ago. It was built by transpro, Called the Fail safe trans. If I could break it, it was rebuilt for free. It is still in good shape. But I have busted my share of trans in the past. Would a built 5rib 002 or 091 work with a stock bug lowered? I'm not sure how much I have to worry about stock tires hocking up. LOL. It will not be a racing bug but will use the power when needed to have some fun.
2. What is the best break system I can use, including master? All-wheel disk. Is there a pedal system that works well and looks mostly stock? I don't want to cut the body, but I am also 6'3 and need the legroom.
Also, I have an adjustable ball joint front end. I want the best ride, so lowered spindles help any? Or not.
3. Wire harness to convert over to an alternator set up. My wiring was not working well when I was driving it.
I have been away for a long time when working on bugs. Some solid feedback is appreciated.
I take daily photos of all my work. It is 30 to 50 outside, so work will be slow.
Mike.
Last edited by seabeebuggy on Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:42 am, edited 3 times in total.
- V8Nate
- Posts: 804
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:34 pm
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
Bitchin ride and great story, sorry to hear about your pops. Many options for suspension, I'm a big fan of air ride its been the best ride in my opinion(air shocks in front, 2500lb slam specialties bags with shocks in the rear) some people are running a arm front conversion that they have liked from what I've read. I am also running cb wide 5 all wheel disk brakes on my 66 and granted I'm not racing it on the track I give it hell on the streets and they haven't done me wrong once. Hope that helps, can't wait to see the progress
-
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Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
It was '69 when, here in the states, VW went to IRS. The conversion to IRS can be done but there are things that have to be done such as adding the pivots on the torsion housing. The trailing arms and the spring plates are fairly simple as is the torsion bars (the shorter swing axle torsion bars and end caps I understand could be used but they might be a bit stiffer). Half shafts and stub axles along with the larger bus CVs are part of the conversion.
The bus trans is bigger so the nose cone of the trans comes in just above the top of the rear cross-piece of the pan (requires metal work) or, there is the option of going to a 10° mount that puts the nose cone in the proper location on the pan. Because of the wider trans that is the reason for the shorter half (axle) shafts. I have some pix of both setups along with the hydraulic clutch conversion if you want me to post them.
If you are going to mess with a lot of power then you should do the braking system upgrades which could require checking what you have then maybe upgrading it.
Putting it "in the weeds" also would mean some component updating also.
Bags and/or air shock I can't comment on those.
My opinion for what it is worth.
Lee
The bus trans is bigger so the nose cone of the trans comes in just above the top of the rear cross-piece of the pan (requires metal work) or, there is the option of going to a 10° mount that puts the nose cone in the proper location on the pan. Because of the wider trans that is the reason for the shorter half (axle) shafts. I have some pix of both setups along with the hydraulic clutch conversion if you want me to post them.
If you are going to mess with a lot of power then you should do the braking system upgrades which could require checking what you have then maybe upgrading it.
Putting it "in the weeds" also would mean some component updating also.
Bags and/or air shock I can't comment on those.
My opinion for what it is worth.
Lee
- seabeebuggy
- Posts: 3581
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:25 am
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
I had an A-arm conversion on my manx. It was very nice. I want to keep this car as close to the original as I can for the most part. While upgrading, I don't want to do something that makes it unreversable, like cutting up the body. Minor adjustments are ok. My 69 is an IRS already. I will look into the Airbags? or air shocks? If I go Air shocks in the front or rear, does this require removing the portion springs? I had air shocks at one point on my buggy on top of the torsions; it did not really help with the ride as much as ride height. I think they were for lifting now that I think of it.
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- Joined: Mon Nov 13, 2006 10:17 pm
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
Question: when you say air shocks do you mean nitrogen shock or shocks you fill with an air compressor? Two different things that people use the same word for which is why I said "I can't comment on them". Nitrogen shock are usually good.seabeebuggy wrote: ↑Sun Jan 17, 2021 11:16 am I had an A-arm conversion on my manx. It was very nice. I want to keep this car as close to the original as I can for the most part. While upgrading, I don't want to do something that makes it unreversable, like cutting up the body. Minor adjustments are ok. My 69 is an IRS already. I will look into the Airbags? or air shocks? If I go Air shocks in the front or rear, does this require removing the portion springs? I had air shocks at one point on my buggy on top of the torsions; it did not really help with the ride as much as ride height. I think they were for lifting now that I think of it.
If they have springs on the shock do you also have torsion bars as they could be redundant.
I went back and looked at the first post and you said "... in '68..." then later you also mentioned '69. I did re-read far enough .
Raising the front of the BJ with the secondary coils I guess must work some but it is something I wouldn't normally recommend. Adjusters do the same thing but then you are modifying the beam itself.
For what it is worth: my experience with the inflatable air-shocks wasn't good (my blue buggy came with them) which is why I don't recommend them. Many years before I had been warned that even on street vehicles (especially working trucks) they can be dangerous if abused. I know of one person's experience with bags that ended up not being good at all (he lived but got out of buggies/rails). I recently saw and ad for air-shocks and for similar shocks with air-bags as part of them; they refer to them "adjustable air-shocks".
Lee
- V8Nate
- Posts: 804
- Joined: Mon Sep 03, 2018 12:34 pm
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
I also have a adjustable front beam, I just use the lower adjuster to give me a little spring when aired out so I'm not binding my ball joints, I have used them for well over 25k miles with no issues, its pretty common practice for front air. The rear I built but copied the design from limebug engineering out of the uk(full bolt in no body or pan mods )seabeebuggy wrote:I had an A-arm conversion on my manx. It was very nice. I want to keep this car as close to the original as I can for the most part. While upgrading, I don't want to do something that makes it unreversable, like cutting up the body. Minor adjustments are ok. My 69 is an IRS already. I will look into the Airbags? or air shocks? If I go Air shocks in the front or rear, does this require removing the portion springs? I had air shocks at one point on my buggy on top of the torsions; it did not really help with the ride as much as ride height. I think they were for lifting now that I think of it.
- seabeebuggy
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Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
Just to be clear, you are using air shocks. not the shocks with an airbag to adjust height correct? brand or model #?
- V8Nate
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Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
They are monroe air shocks in the front, the rear of the car uses standard monroe shocks with 2500lb slam specialties air bags
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Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
I looked up the Monroe Air Shocks and they are the type of you fill it with air that I am not real fond of/don't recommend. Basically, they can eliminate/take over most of the torsion bars work as you add more air to them. In the front they may be OK but I their use in the rear I don't at all (again...my opinion). The same with bags as they can/have been known fail but custom guys still use them. The shock style of bags may be somewhat safer than the bags themselves for several reasons.
Installing and using adjusters in the front beam seems to be accepted and does allow for height and suspension adjustment and is used both on the street and off-road setups. Resetting the torsion bar preload in the rear also works.
My opinion... for what it is worth.
Lee
Installing and using adjusters in the front beam seems to be accepted and does allow for height and suspension adjustment and is used both on the street and off-road setups. Resetting the torsion bar preload in the rear also works.
My opinion... for what it is worth.
Lee
- seabeebuggy
- Posts: 3581
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:25 am
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
Hi All,
Well, I'm three years older and don't have any more time in the day. Does anyone want to buy my gun business? LOL. I'll be buying all my parts over the next four months for the restoration.
What have I done so far? Nothing really. Well, that's not all true. I bought an offroad racecar. It is a rail, and I wanted the engine out of it. I was told 2L but after tearing into it, it is a 1915. It is all CBP parts. So the guts are good. Im not sure I want a 1915. I like fast and fun. Not a daily driver. My last 2206 was a turbo, and it was fun. There was not much difference in size. Im not sure I want to to turbo again. I am going EFI. I will likely buy a kit, but I may dive into the system people here build. What say you? High CR NA 1915 or stroker or turbo 1915? The only reason I'm thinking of 1915 is the quality parts I have from the race car. I don't know much about building the engine. The heads look different to me. Deep cut. The engine has a dry slump, likely to be removed. I like to make it myself but fear messing it up. The engine builder for it is in Reno. He said 3k to rebuild it. Long block. I talked to another builder, but he refused to rebuild anything but a stock engine for the Nevada desert.
Im open for ideas and decisions. The racecar also has a three-rib, likely built for racing trans. Im not sure what I'm going to do with the Car. I already stretched it and raised the roof to fit into it. It needs a new A-Arm front end built.
Well, I'm three years older and don't have any more time in the day. Does anyone want to buy my gun business? LOL. I'll be buying all my parts over the next four months for the restoration.
What have I done so far? Nothing really. Well, that's not all true. I bought an offroad racecar. It is a rail, and I wanted the engine out of it. I was told 2L but after tearing into it, it is a 1915. It is all CBP parts. So the guts are good. Im not sure I want a 1915. I like fast and fun. Not a daily driver. My last 2206 was a turbo, and it was fun. There was not much difference in size. Im not sure I want to to turbo again. I am going EFI. I will likely buy a kit, but I may dive into the system people here build. What say you? High CR NA 1915 or stroker or turbo 1915? The only reason I'm thinking of 1915 is the quality parts I have from the race car. I don't know much about building the engine. The heads look different to me. Deep cut. The engine has a dry slump, likely to be removed. I like to make it myself but fear messing it up. The engine builder for it is in Reno. He said 3k to rebuild it. Long block. I talked to another builder, but he refused to rebuild anything but a stock engine for the Nevada desert.
Im open for ideas and decisions. The racecar also has a three-rib, likely built for racing trans. Im not sure what I'm going to do with the Car. I already stretched it and raised the roof to fit into it. It needs a new A-Arm front end built.
- seabeebuggy
- Posts: 3581
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 11:25 am
Re: Seabee Bug Build thread. 2021
Not sure what I have here. Yes, some rust, but any details on a 48cc and flycut data?