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When I realized that I wouldn't be able to use features such as Launch Control or Flat shift with my existing EDIS setup, I decided to take the plunge and have MS directly control the coil pack. Beings that I've already modded my MS to the point that there really wasn't much room inside the case I decided to mount the coil drivers externally. I 3D printed a case for the driver module and attached to the top of MS module with adhesive vel-crow. I ordered the actual drivers from DIY-Autotune ($10 a piece).

While EDIS is great, very easy to install and get running. I wanted more control over my ignition. I'm still using the EDIS 36-1 crank wheel and crank sensor and instead of the EDIS coil pack I opted for a wastespark coil from a Dodge Neon so I can use the MSD wires I've had on the shelf.... because racecar.

Here is the external igniter without the cover.


Terrible angle, should have taken picture before mounting the intercooler...


Getting this setup was actually alot easier than I expected. Should have gone this route from the beginning.

-Nick-

Nice! Your post peaked my interest as I also have the EDIS set-up firing COPS but thinking down the road I'd like to eventually do away with the EDIS. Did you have to do anything different with the trigger wheel? I recall it having to be clocked a number of teeth from TDC relative to the pick-up sensor for EDIS. The coils on my (non-vw engine) require a separate igniter which the EDIS supplies, but if I ever need to replace the coils I'll likely need to replace with newer logic-level input coils.
Jeff

Fortunately, the crank wheel and crank sensor remained untouched from the EDIS setup. Even if the wheel was not exactly 90 degrees (EDIS-4) to the sensor tunerstudio allows for an offset adjustment. I kept my offset at the default 80 degrees (probably to account for latency) and verified with a timing light and it was spot on. I eventually want to swap out the Ford Escort wheel for the one from CB Performance as it is indexed to the VW crankshaft and doesn't rely on me "eye-balling it".

The only real snag I had was on first try then engine would shut off when it reached 2K rpm. Using the High Speed Logger in tuner studio I noticed the signal voltage would decrease as rpms went up. Turns out I had the CKP wires reversed going into the MS. After switching them around the signal increased voltage as rpms went up and all is well.

Thanks for the update - that's great about the trigger wheel as my sensor is not easily relocated. I'd have to reposition the trigger wheel on my pulley (possible, but I had the pulley and trigger wheel balance at the "edis" position).
The Dub Shop also makes very nice trigger wheels integral with various mfgs pulleys - you might check them out too.
Cheers,
Jeff