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oprn wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2024 4:33 am The cheapest performance engine possible is a bone stock, all original German parts 1600 SP or DP with a properly sized turbo (crossover 2300 - 2500 RPM) limited to 8 psi boost and 5000 RPM. A draw through carb simplifies the fuel delivery issues, a few degrees spark retard under boost and Bob's your Uncle!

It will not make huge dyno numbers but you will be running with the N/A guys that have spent 3 to 4 times the money and if you can weld a few exhaust pipes together the whole thing can be done pretty darn reasonably. I did my boosted 1600 for the cost of the turbo, a few "U" bends, a used side draught carb and lots of tinker time. It had enough torque to smoke the stock clutch on a hard shift.

Or you can take it up a few notches like Clonebug did and clean house on all comers except the top 3% that have unlimited toy car funds.

Bruce.m wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2024 9:26 am There are a few Europeans on here from time to time. Hopefully they can advise on TUV approval options.

I’d suggest plenty of background reading on your options. Also worth watching the Jugan Linse videos on YouTube (you won’t need the subtitles!) as they are very in depth on a 1600 build & also a strong 1800 build.

One point. You mention dual valve springs, which are only really needed for high rpm & big (heavy) valves. There is little point in using them with a stock crankshaft because you can’t get the rpm high enough to make those necessary.

Choosing a well matched set of parts is important to get good performance, reliability & value-for-money.

I built a mild 1641cc engine that cost me very little. As an example. I had a core engine that had sat unused for 20 years, so although it was worn & needed a full rebuild the crankcase was within spec. I was gifted some autolina heads which I hand ported / 3 angle valve job. I bought the pistons / barrels & full set of bearings. I used stock camshaft, stock new lifters, shortened stock pushrods, stock crankshaft, stock flywheel. With custom motorbike throttle bodies, forged 1.4:1 high lift rockers (ordered direct from the USA) & old used stainless sport exhaust. This makes about 83bhp which is fine for the cheap cost.

Bruce.m wrote: ↑Thu Jun 27, 2024 9:26 am There are a few Europeans on here from time to time. Hopefully they can advise on TUV approval options.

I’d suggest plenty of background reading on your options. Also worth watching the Jugan Linse videos on YouTube (you won’t need the subtitles!) as they are very in depth on a 1600 build & also a strong 1800 build.

One point. You mention dual valve springs, which are only really needed for high rpm & big (heavy) valves. There is little point in using them with a stock crankshaft because you can’t get the rpm high enough to make those necessary.

Choosing a well matched set of parts is important to get good performance, reliability & value-for-money.

I built a mild 1641cc engine that cost me very little. As an example. I had a core engine that had sat unused for 20 years, so although it was worn & needed a full rebuild the crankcase was within spec. I was gifted some autolina heads which I hand ported / 3 angle valve job. I bought the pistons / barrels & full set of bearings. I used stock camshaft, stock new lifters, shortened stock pushrods, stock crankshaft, stock flywheel. With custom motorbike throttle bodies, forged 1.4:1 high lift rockers (ordered direct from the USA) & old used stainless sport exhaust. This makes about 83bhp which is fine for the cheap cost.