Snapped Stud

Kevin@thebugpage · Post by **Kevin@thebugpage** » Tue Oct 03, 2000 7:00 am

I recently recieved a case, crank, and rods that I won on eBay, the packing was very poor and when it arrived one of the engine mounting studs was snapped off and the other was bent at a 45 degree angle... How hard will it be to replace these? The one that's broke is below the surface so there's no chance of getting vise grips on it.
I'm still trying to get in touch with the seller to see if he will cut some of the cost since it was damaged... no luck yet.

Thanks,
Kevin

JohnConnolly · Post by **JohnConnolly** » Tue Oct 03, 2000 9:34 am

contact the shipper IMMEDIATELY (and don't throw away the packaging). It's on the shipper or the shipping company. That's what insurance is for. You shouldn't have to pay a cent.

YOu can pull those studs without too much difficulty with an EZ Out. I would NEVER try to use one of these on an exhaust stud, but the mounting studs aren't too bad. The other option is to simply drill it out and re-tap it to the original size (I have done this for 15 years and never had one not work). A Timesert is another option, and makes a stronger than original repair.

tarnx · Post by **tarnx** » Wed Oct 04, 2000 9:32 pm

Unfornunately I do this on a daily basis. If it is a steel stud in aluminum the problem increases. First soak it with PB blaster available at any car store. keep putting it on for a couple of hours. The longer the better. Make a small chisel out of some hardened metal and gently and slowly tap it along the outer edge of the screw to try to get it to turn. If that doesnt work, heat it with a propane torch and cool it quick with a damp rag and heat it again. you are trying to break the corrosion bond. Keep putting on the PB Blaster. If you have to use an ezout make sure you follow the instructons for the size of stud you are trying to remove. Make sure the surface of the stud is flat if possible and make sure you center punch the stud so the drill bit will not go off center. Don't jerk the ezout as it may break off and you are in deep trouble as it is very hard. left hand drill bits are available from the Eastwood company which if they catch will back out the stud. You can also drill out the stud just under the tread size and then pick out the tread pieces but it requires you to be accurate with your drill to keep from messing up the threads. And for those realy big jobs you use a special welding rod which will only stick in the middle and weld a nut on the top to take them out. The heating and cooling and the PB Blaster has been very helpful on getting rusty screws out of old bug heads. Hope some of this helps.

Kevin@thebugpage · Post by **Kevin@thebugpage** » Thu Oct 05, 2000 7:31 am

Thanks for the input guys, I've started the claim (it was shipped UPS insured). If I get my money back I'll just take it to the machine shop and have them get it out.
I still have 5 cylinder studs I can't get broke loose, will that PB blaster take them out along with vise grips? I have some PB but it never seems to do much good... maybe its a stale can...

Thanks,
Kevin
www.thebugpage.net

Crash · Post by **Crash** » Thu Oct 05, 2000 7:12 pm

Aero Kroil is good penetrating oil.....The best I have used yet...