newbie question

Ergbert · Post by **Ergbert** » Sat Oct 21, 2000 4:21 pm

Does anybody know what kind of epoxy/glue I should use to put front and rear hood seals in on my Ghia? Also I need to change my oil and I don't know what kind of oil the previous owner used... should I use synthetic or not?

SB1303s · Post by **SB1303s** » Sat Oct 21, 2000 8:39 pm

Not sure on the glue, as my SB theyer channel mounted, But the oil? How many miles?
I use SAE 40, Due to having higher miles
Hope this helps, Good Luck

Ergbert · Post by **Ergbert** » Sun Oct 22, 2000 4:28 am

Don't know about the miles... The odo says 36162. When i bought the car the speedo didn't work and I'm assuming that it hadn't been for a long time, so i'm positive that there are more on there. ( speedo wasn't working for the simple reason that it wasn't in the wheel properly which I promptly fixed once I figured out what was wrong)

Toine · Post by **Toine** » Sun Oct 22, 2000 11:49 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Ergbert:
Don't know about the miles... The odo says 36162. When i bought the car the speedo didn't work and I'm assuming that it hadn't been for a long time, so i'm positive that there are more on there. ( speedo wasn't working for the simple reason that it wasn't in the wheel properly which I promptly fixed once I figured out what was wrong)<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
I think you should use 20W50 multi grade oil and for the manual transmission SAE 80W/90transm.oil.
(buy the Bentley or Haynes book.) For my Bug I used 15W40. Don't forget to check the oilstrainer.
Do not use syntetic because they clean to much. In Vintage motorscycles the can give demage because all the dirt in the crancase and oilpipes etc. will come lose and can blok the oilstream (this is from from a Belray-memo). I do not know if this also happend in the VW, but I would never take the risk.

Toine owner Karmann Ghia ,73 Conv. and Bug1300 '72.

Sharkey · Post by **Sharkey** » Sat Oct 28, 2000 1:21 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>
Do not use syntetic because they clean to much. In Vintage motorscycles the can give demage because all the dirt in the crancase and oilpipes etc. will come lose and can blok the oilstream (this is from from a Belray-memo). I do not know if this also happend in the VW, but I would never take the risk.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>

You are confusing "synthetic" oil with "detergent" oil. 99% of the oils on the market today are detergent oils. A detergent oil contains special compounds that prevent sludge and varnish from building up inside your motor, keeping it suspended in the oil so the filter can draw it out.

The vintage of the engine does not matter. If for some reason you have a high milage vintage motor that has been using nothing other than non-detergent oil, then yes, you can encounter problems by switching to a detergent oil. Otherwise, there is no problem whatsoever.

Synthetics are prefectly safe in an ACVW motor. There is a myth claiming that synthetics don't transfer heat away from your motor as well as conventional oil, but very little actual data really exists. Even if conventional oil transmitted heat 10% better than synthetic oil, it would make very little difference on an air-cooled motor (since the oil contributes to only about 10% of the cooling anyway, for a net result of 1% better cooling). Installing an oil sump on the bottom of your motor will easily make up for that 1% loss.

SB1303s · Post by **SB1303s** » Tue Oct 31, 2000 7:11 pm

Some mite consider it over kill, But i change my oil when it starts looking black.
or every 2 months. The Air-Cooled VW dealers mechanic, that i purchased my 73 from here in Orlando,Fla.Recomended that i run SAE-40 oil,& thats what i run.. tranny oil is 80w/90..

[This message has been edited by SB1303s (edited 10-31-2000).]

SuperBeetle71 · Post by **SuperBeetle71** » Tue Oct 31, 2000 11:41 pm

You could use any weatherstrip adhesive from any auto parts store.

Also, synthetics are too expensive. They are designed for longer times between oil changes, and do not necessarily lubricate better. Since an Aircooled engine uses oil for much of its cooling, the oil should be changed more frwquently, NEVER beyond 3000 miles on a newer engine, and even every 1500 miles on an older worn out engine. So the benefits of synthetic don't really help ua aircooled owners. And the $4 a bottle price tag is outrageous!

Later,
Cody
'71 super

Ergbert · Post by **Ergbert** » Fri Nov 03, 2000 11:37 pm

Thanks guys! You all are a big help to an extreme newbie!

Tobra · Post by **Tobra** » Sat Nov 04, 2000 8:07 pm

Seems a bit silly to change oil each 2500-3000 miles and pay so much for it. Oil in ACVW motors gets dirty quick and should be changed often. I use 20W-50 in the motor and 80-90 in the transaxle. Single most important thing to do is the maintainance, oil and valve adj.

------------------
'79 SB Convertible, Front disc brakes, all braided stainless steel brake lines, sport springs, Polyurethane bushings, KYB all four corners

Toine · Post by **Toine** » Tue Nov 07, 2000 11:57 pm

<BLOCKQUOTE>quote:<HR>Originally posted by Sharkey:
 You are confusing "synthetic" oil with "detergent" oil. 99% of the oils on the market today are detergent oils. A detergent oil contains special compounds that prevent sludge and varnish from building up inside your motor, keeping it suspended in the oil so the filter can draw it out.

The vintage of the engine does not matter. If for some reason you have a high milage vintage motor that has been using nothing other than non-detergent oil, then yes, you can encounter problems by switching to a detergent oil. Otherwise, there is no problem whatsoever.

Synthetics are prefectly safe in an ACVW motor. There is a myth claiming that synthetics don't transfer heat away from your motor as well as conventional oil, but very little actual data really exists. Even if conventional oil transmitted heat 10% better than synthetic oil, it would make very little difference on an air-cooled motor (since the oil contributes to only about 10% of the cooling anyway, for a net result of 1% better cooling). Installing an oil sump on the bottom of your motor will easily make up for that 1% loss.

<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
No, what I mean is the difference between mineral multiviscosity oil and the newest synthetic. Both are with anti corrosion, sudge reducers, wear reducers, anti foam, detergent dopes etc. The dopes in the newest synthetic oil are improved, so they are more power full. Less foam longer lifetime etc. Also the cleaning is more powerfull. They not only keep the dirt in the oil, but also solve the soliddirt in the crankcase. That means you are make 30 years off dirt history free, a lot of dirt in your bearings cylinders etc. and there is not an oilfilter in the VWmotor.
The financial profit on the newest synthetic is always higher than on mineral oil. So they always advice synthetics. Only for clean or overhaul motors, it can be interesting using them.
I saw some test results off these synthetic from Castrol, after the tests the pistons looks like complete new without wear or dirt. So I'm not saying that these oils are not good, but using them in old dirty motors is a waste of money.

Advice: buy a filter, filtering is the best medecine for a Bugs or Ghias blood. On Hydraulics there is a reduce of downtime by using filters.