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I've got a few spare engine parts and an extra seat. I also have some 412 light boxes (the ones under the front headlights.) and some extra wheels. bits and pieces, but in good shape. I have an oil funnel for an oil breather. and there is a parts store near me that practically gives away type 4 parts, because no one ever comes in looking for them. I went in there to find parts and they had a couple brand new air filters that they gave me for free.

I'm also getting ready to ramp up to make some seat covers, and some new carpet for the back deck. (I have an industrial sailmakers sewing machine and I learned upholstry years ago.) If any of you want me to, I can trace out a pattern from my 412 seats when I get ready to do the upholstry and carpets.

Funny, but I can't think rationally about this car. I buy every book I get my hands on. (I love Half Price Books. I found an old mechanics repair manual for a type 4, but it wasn't for my car model and year. I wish I had bought it, because I didn't realize how hard the type four books are to come by. If I see another one, I'll pick it up. (they usually want about $6.00 for them. It's a steal.)

I'm looking for a 412 repair manual that is for the 73 station wagon. I have the Haynes, 411/412 manual, but some of the detail is missing and I'd like to get the VW official repair book, if anyone out there has it. I'll pay for copying.

I discovered that if I laminate a cover, Kinko's or Staples will wire coil bind any book. Then they lay nice and flat while you are working. I laminate the diagram pages before binding them.

Another hint is to enlarge the wiring and hose diagrams about 3 revolutions, tape them together and color code them. Then I take them to a Lakeshore Curriculum store where I can laminate them for about 30 cents per linear foot. It makes following the diagram, soooooo much eaiser, and you can tack it to the wall in the garage, so it doesn't slide all over the place.

It's amazing what being the mom of a learning disabled kid can teach you.

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Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com

Hi there,

Good luck with your 412!

You may know of these sites already, but for even more info/help/advice try:
<A HREF="http://www.hallvw.clara.net/" TARGET=_blank>http://www.hallvw.clara.net/[/URL]</A> http://www.tunacan.net/t4corner/index.shtml http://www.type4.org/

Neal

[This message has been edited by Specky VW freak (edited 09-03-2001).]

Hello...I would pay money for a copy of the workshop manual. I have a 73 412 two door, that has been 100% mechanically restored...down to the last nut and bolt. I have been working on these cars for 22 years. I have lots of parts....and lots of connections to get things. I also seemed to have collected almost evrything available written for this car. I am an expert on the injection system...and higher performance tuning of it...let me know if I can help. I have found also that the rear seat cover set from a 69 fastback type 3 is a dead match and that the seat set (lowback) from aboyt a 67 type 3 will fit great with just a few mods to the seat springs and padding. Of course you still have to sew your own head rest covers. Nice to meet you. I will probably be picking your brain as you go. Ray

I have some of an original 412 VW manual.
What details are you looking for?
I also picked up a Bosch EFI system tester for the Type3/4s. I suppose I should open it to see how it works but haven't got round to it yet.

EFI tester, Where did you get that little gem? I'm looking for the wiring diagram for the 73 412, and the 71 411. Automatic transaxle.

I'm going crazy, trying to figure out why my newly rebuilt engine won't start.

Sara

I would love to get one of those testors...for fun/collectors sake. I have the manual from Henry Elfrink on its use. But actually, you can do abetter faster job with a simple autoranging digital voltmeter...about $28.00 at Radio shack. Sara...You still havn't gotten that thing started?....The FI tester will not help you until you do. I will write down the sensor readings and which wires to check for you tonite..and drop them into an e-mail. It will take about 20 mins to check them all. Read my previous and let me know where everything stands. Ray

I may have isolated the problem. By the way, I didn't realize that there is a second set of points on the distributor. I didn't see anything in the book about it, but when I took the thing out of the engine, I decided to "clean it up" a little. That's when I realized that little thing that slides in to the hole at the bottom of the distributor and hooks up to the wiring harness is a set of points.How do you test those? And do they need to be "set" somehow.

I found that one of the wires to the cold start valve was hanging by a thread. SO I started systematically going through all of the injector connections and other such connections in the engine compartment. So far, I have found about 3 loose or disconnected wires. One was on the distributor itself.

For those that I have fixed, I am suddenly seeing responses at a much stronger and more consistent rate. Now, I can clearly hear the points opening and shutting, and spark seems more consistent. I almost got lift off this evening.

Any suggestions for finding boots for them? and for finding the replacement connectors. I am currently going to the electronic's parts store and trying to resurrect the ones I have, but they aren't really reliable.

Can I just shrink wrap the individual connectors instead of using a new device to hold it in the slot?

Yeah, Babay. I'm getting closer and closer to a full launch.

Hello

This is one from the main troubles with the D-Jetronics. The wires in the loom get hard and brittle over the years. Especially on Sedans and 914 they see some watersplash speeding up the corrosion.

Any suggestions for finding boots for them? and for finding the replacement connectors. I am currently going to the electronic's parts store and trying to resurrect the ones I have, but they aren't really reliable.

Those connectors where used at many Bosch applications and you will find spare parts at Bosch, Porsche, Mercedes, BMW, Volvo, Jaguar, Peugot.

AFIK in germany all D-Jet electrics are still aviable except the wide rubber boot for the 4 pin connector but i always got them at Mercedes. The mercedes units are similar except showing a mercedes order number.

Can I just shrink wrap the individual connectors instead of using a new device to hold it in the slot?

The connector socket can be recyclet you only have to release the little lash in the spade connector to pull that out.
Those connectors are standard zinc covered 2,8 mm or 6,3 mm spade connector types.

Those connectors are very comon in germany and most automotive shops cover them in little packages. Also most car audio shops have them.
If you can´t get ahold on them order them at VW or Porsche dealers or 914 parts dealers ( F.e Pelican Parts )


Grüsse

Thanks for the help on this. Maybe we ought to start a new thread "wiring", or finding electrical parts.

I have been to every automotive store in the area, and no dice. But, I will check on Pelican Parts. They seem pretty decent.


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Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com

Roland, I wish we had some of the electrical assets you have over there in Europe. The connectors for the ECU end of the harness were never offered on this continent by VWOA. If something happened to that end, they replaced the entire harness. The small connectors that go to the ends of each component (injectors, cold-start etc) were available from the dealer in 3 different sizes for single, double and triple wire config., until about a year ago. VWOA is phasing out all of its terminals including the T-1 connector series (those 6mm male connectors with the long spade inside of the clear plastic rectangular sleeves). They are only selling SAE type crimp connectors with the red yellow and blue plastic sleeves. These are unaceptable as automotive use...they do not meet DOT regs...and have improper wire strain relief...which allows the wire to wear loose from vibration...and they have no "tang" or spade as you call it...to hold them into connectors or fuse boxes. I can't belive they are even selling them for Automotive use! The 2.3mm FI connectors are only being sold as singles with 12 inches of yellow wire crimped on...totally useless. I have found 2.3mm male and female connectors...zinc plated...which is poor (they should be solid copper or cad plated) at some more advanced electronic shops...but they do not have the "tang", or any kind of wire strain relief, so they too are useless.The later model L-type injection connectors are still available, from some VW , volvo, SAAB and mercedes dealers. I am able to make those work rather well. They are the small box shaped terminals with two or four gripping fingers. They take the same crimper tool.We probably should have a wiring forum. The FI harness is where 90% of all the injection problems are. Ray

Hello

I´m not aware about the US stores like Napa but in germany most things can be bought on automotive shops. Sometimes you have to take a 100 piece package but it is mostly cheaper then buying the needed amount from the VW Dealer. But most good dealers will see if they have similar on stock and sale it or sometimes give it away ( 2 cent connector ).
As I heard the uS has the best costumer service in the world and I think they must be friendlier then a german sales guy to survive in the marked.

The problem most people have that they don´t meet the right guy or ask the right questions.

Go to the next VW dealer to the sparparts sale and tell the guy to look into his computersystem ( called ETKA in germany )

Now tell him you have the 411/412 picture cataloug from 83 ( order # 000 7340 84 89 )
This guy should call the type 4 files and check for following parts:

Page 106: ( this is section 9 electric )

# 6,7,8,11.

The rubber parts can be found at the engine section. They have no picture and no picturenumber but you can find them in the text or in the repairsets.

If they aint have type 4 in there system you will find the same parts used in nearly all VW Buses up to 1989.

Grüsse

Actually, they survive in the market with generic stock.

I did go to the VW dealer, and virtually none of those fella's even know what a type 4 is, at least in my area.

However, now that I have the info on spade size, I know where I can get bunches of them. Boeing Surplus, (yes, it's the airplane manufacturer) When Boeing is phasing out an item, they "surplus" it at the plant store, which is open to the public. They won't mail anything, but I can go in and pick up what I need.

The man I talked to seemed amused that I was looking for them. He said he thinks he has has buckets of the copper spades of a number of sizes. He thinks I can get them for 1 dollar per pound. 10 and 20 pound boxes are even cheaper.

Do I need other sizes of connectors? and What size? I have been "making do" with the type of connectors (spades) that I can find, but, you are definitely right. They just don't stay connected. So as soon as you said what kind, I called, and they said they probably have about 3000 lbs of the little things, as well as hand and automatic crimpers. The guy said they might have a press crimper, I can get cheap.

You know, you feed the wire in, and pull a lever, and it cuts the end, strips the wire, attaches the connector and crimps in one fell swoop. All to airplane specs.

I am going there, this week. I will see what I can find. If you want me to look for anything in particular, and it's hit and miss, I'll pick up what you ask me to. They sell lots of other airplane surplus.

Anything I might look for? They almost always have WIRE of every size, and spec. It's usually sold on the roll, or by the yard. CHEAP. (High heat, low resistance, every guage you can imagine, Acid free, acid resistant, jet fuel resistant, gasoline resistant. you name it, they carry it, in all the colors of the rainbow, stripes, cross hashed, whatever. AS well as shrink wrap by the roll.

I did find a place to get a hand crimper, like the kind they use on the 412 fittings. Tacoma Screw products about a mile from my house will order any tool I can find in their extensive books. They will also order other things, like screws, bushings, pulley's etc. I found the gromets that go through the metal sheeting on the engine cover. Fit like a glove, and pretty inexpensive too.

But I prefer to scrounge for surplus. It's alot more fun. Who knows, I might find some "carpet" (usually marine quality - no rotting, no fading, impervious to water, chemicals and fire.) Looks pretty much like what's in my 412 now.



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Sara
m504specs@hotmail.com

Hello

Sorry Ray I work offline and have mostly a 1 day delay witch mixes up some things.

Now the contacts on the gray connector are named timer contacts and are used in many other applications ( Motornic injectors )

You can by them at the next mercedes dealer in silver coating for 50c a piece or at the next VW dealer with zinc coating for half the price.

I also would recomend to contact a Bosch or Würth suppler for a larger package. Bosch sales them in 50´s 100´s and 500´s package for a much better price then the dealers.


I know the problems with the aftermarked junk made for cheap fast fixes and anyhow who wants to drive a car longer then 2 years ?

If you are realy serious i can try to manage a direct source contact for most things but I´m not sure how we can work that out right now.

Also I joined the iATN and the AEIN who now start a own board: http://pub95.ezboard.com/fautomotiveele ... etworkfrm1

The iATN is useless for Oldtimer and I´m not long enough to be at home at the other circles. But I found out that the american rstorer not only lack knowledge they also seem not to find simplest things or major things in a good quality. Maybe this is the reson why most concours winning cars in the restoration where made in europe or cost much more in the staates then comperable in GB or Germany.

I hope to catch interesst with some Porsche parts supplier to have a selection from the real good original stuff.

However said that most specifc VW connectors run out of production in the next years and are NLA at VW but still to get at the OEM or at the big suppliers.

Direct help:

Those clear plastic connector hules where made by "Hellermann" and sold by various supliers.
They are now a JV called HellermannTyton and under the House from Bowthorpe in Milwaukee.

German HP is www.hellermantyton.de
Also check www.berner.de or www.wuerth.com www.amp.com http://www.aeroelectric.com/ http://www.herth-u-buss.de/hb
If you see the things and know the ordernumbers it will help to clear up your desires and mostly würth covers everything world wide. berner isn´t in the US but they ship on demand ( If I ask them friendly and waranty for the goods )

Your desired part# are probaly: AGR 2502 V200 to V219
( injector conntacts gold platet )
V900 to V 950
( injector and general automotive zinc coatet )
AGR 2510 V800 to V 860 Automotive uncoatet.
( Sorry I have a 1000 Page cataloge but no scanner )

Grüsse

Hello

Sorry same links are dead now but I made a short trip to find the parts:
http://wueko.wuerth.com/cgi-bin/wu_produkt_detail.pl?



Those are the connectors ?

And this is a complete assortmentbox:
http://wueko.wuerth.com/cgi-bin/wu_prod ... 5819010_;1;

Würth also sales refill packages.



Also have a look at;
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/TE/b ... &LG=1&I=42

and maybe you can order catalouges in the US:
http://www.herth-u-buss.de/ENGLISH/prod ... ameset.htm

I just send them a email for details.


Grüsse

Hi again,
I picked up the EFI tester at a show a couple of years ago in a job lot of tools from an old VW garage I got quite a few nice pieces. I've had a few intermittant problems with the Typ3/4 EFI and found that squeezing the contacts with a pliers sorted them out.The contacts used in the typ3/4 EFI components are 2.8mm spade terminals. I presume you do have a wiring diagram for the EFI loom.
If not E-mail me at hughmcc@iol.ie