four speed conversion

[herr_sparky]

anyone ever installed the 4spd from a 412 fastback in the 412 wagon? I have a donor car and even a spare pedal assembly. are the mounts the same? what other transaxles are useable?

[ray greenwood]

Sparky...I have done it several times. Its really quite simple. All of the holes and drillings are already in the car. You will need the pedal assemby, a good clutch slave and master cyl., you should also take the metal line with it. The from shaped section of the line has a couplimg down by the shifter. Take that loose. The part to the rear is a straight line with a grommet on the end. It has to pull out from the back. You will also need the flexible rubber brake line type hose that couples to the slave. I recommend replacing that hose with a short line that fits vanagon with clutch slave...and then use a new piece of metal brake line to connect to the slave. Do this now , not later...you will not find a replacement anywhere for the long stock rubber line with the correct threading. The short vanagon hose is still available new. It simply serves as a flexible joint between the line in the body and the movement of the transaxle. Be sure you get the little cad plated fitting that goes between the clutch master and the line. This is a residual pressure valve. Without it, you will not be able to bleed the clutch. Get the fluid resoivoir...it has an extra nipple to feed both brake and clutch. Clean the pedal cluster and replace the bushings...trust me, the clutch bushings will be rattling. Get the shift rod, shifter, boot and if it is there the cover plate that goes next to the shifter. Do not forget to take the shifter gate plate as well. The front shift rod bushing is replaceable. I use one from a bus of bug...can't remember. In the rear absolutely get both halves of the ball and socket coupling. Also...the center tunnel hole on the Automatic has a plastic plug with a little hole for the cable. The one on the 4-speed has a differnt plastic plug. It has a hole for the shift rod, and an alignment notch. You MUST have this piece. It is part of the shift rod alignment system. As for the transaxle...get the top support bar and the rubber bushings. Catch any of the "bone" shaped shims that come with it. If this is an early transaxle...with the skinny slave cylinder and return spring...these are rare and replacing the slave will be very difficult. Call me later if it is early model and I'll help you get it rebuilt...same for the mastercyl. The later model has a 44mm slave. It is also almost impossible to get. I can help you there also. This takes about 4 hours to swap all of this with the motor out. It is straight bolt in.
Some transaxle notes: The only available parts for this transaxle are nosecone and tailcone seals, side output shaft seals, o-rings, countershaft needle bearings, and ring and pinion bearings. The 1st and 2nd needle bearing rarely wear at all. The 3rd gear has a bushing...and rarely wears at all. In most of these transmissions...the ring and pinion bearings will need to be replaced. These are very long life transmissions. They have two defects. The countershaft is very soft..and was designed to be a replacemnt at high milage. I have new ones machined. If it wears too far...and you will notice this if there is "spalling" on the 4th gear countershaft...then they can damage the gears. If the gears are not damaged...and the countershaft isn't discolored or pitted...simply replace the bearings. If the shaft is pitted. It is any easy to make straight 18mm shaft. I am working on a ball bearing replacement for one of my spares right now. If it works...I'll set you up. Its also cheap. The other problem is the high final drive ratio. The spider gears have the same spacer tube inside the differential as a type 1. When it wears too much, it allows the teeth of the spider gears to penetrate too deeply into the output shaft gears...casuing wear...and misalignment of the ring and pinion. This will sooner or later kill the differntial...and there is no replacement. The solution is to simply replace the tube in the differential with one of better diemensions and go your merry way. With care, these transaxles will get you about 300,000 miles. They are very simple to work on...require no special jigs and only one special wrench that I can tell you how to make.It is a three part gearbox. Best transaxle in my opinion ever put in a VW aircooled. Take it slow, collect all the parts...and contact me and I will walk you through all the little bits of making sure the transaxle itself will last. Sorry for the length. Ray