Tie Rod Ends

kittman · Post by **kittman** » Thu Feb 07, 2002 8:31 am

The time has come to replace my inner tie rod ends. They are shot and causing my front end to shimmy like crazy. I have the replacement ends, and slid under there this past weekend to replace them. However, as some of you may know, that's much easier said than done. Is the only way to get at the inner ends to remove both rods, the dampener, etc. from the steering and idler arm? This might be covered in some detail in the manual, but I've misplaced mine. Any one have any tips?

Thanks a bunch!
Jeff
'73 412 4-door

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Thu Feb 07, 2002 9:26 am

Hello, it is best to replace all of the tie rod end at one time. For several reasons. You will have to get the center link loose to properly get a fork on the inner tie-rods. If you have never changed the center link....it is worn...guaranteed...and is part of the shimmy problem in high milage cars. If the center link checks out, and you will need an assistant to check it, then you can remove the steering box, idler arm and centerlink complete...thats a little bit of work....but only about an hour. I reccommend doing that...if you are not changing the center link...as a fork on the center link pins almost always destroys the packing. Also, if the inner tie-rod ends are worn...chances are...others are worn. If you leave any weak link inthe chain...it will very quickly ruin the rest on this suspension. The center link is available from any TRW dealer. It is part # DS 858. It ranges in price....from $69-$120. Ray

kittman · Post by **kittman** » Thu Feb 07, 2002 2:27 pm

Thanks for the advice! I took a close look at the outers as well, and although they look and seem okay, you're right, it makes sense to replace it all if it's already gonna be off the car. But the center link.. I'm assuming that's the piece that the inner ends and dampener attach to, right? Like I said, I am currently sans manual.

Thanks,
Jeff

ray greenwood · Post by **ray greenwood** » Thu Feb 07, 2002 3:34 pm

Yep...thats the part. The problem with it is, that eventually water leaks into the seals. These are not a ball joint. They are a rotating taper pin in a bushing/bearing. They rust inside...causing slop. The way to check them is: with the wheels on the ground...slide underneath. Put two fingers on the pitman arm from the gearbox...and two on the centerlink joint area. Have someone move the sterring wheel back and forth about 4 inches each direction...just enough to load all of the suspension components up. Move it back and forth. The pitman arm or idler arm should both move side to side ...one to one with the center link. If by the back and forth movment you can feel one moving even a little bit...before the other part moves...that means the pin is rocking around. Also do the same thing with the wheel off the ground, with someone holding the wheel on the side your are working on, at 9 and 3 oclock...and moving it back and forth. Any movement means replace it. Drill a very small hole in the back side of each joint...in the steel casting piortion, not the dome on the back...so you can pump it full of grease. Don't drill too deep. Keepuing it greased will make them last almost forever. Ray